Proper Engine Oil Level

[QBhoy]

There are two oil quantity specs for these engines. It’s in the manuals

 

[BamaBowrider 208]

There are two oil quantity specs for these engines. It’s in the manuals

Can you provide any details

 

[QBhoy]

Can you provide any details

I’ll look now.

 

[QBhoy]

Can you provide any details

Here you go. Check your serial number

 

[Stinnett21]

Thanks for that QBhoy. What manual is that out of?

 

[QBhoy]

Thanks for that QBhoy. What manual is that out of?

It’s off the internet to be honest. I looked at the Manual for my engine and it suggested over 5 quarts to be honest. But it’s Defo not. Then I remembered that there was revised info on it since.

 

[BamaBowrider 208]

My problem is that there is no tag with a serial number on this engine, just the casting number on the bell housing and 880 on the side of the block

 

[BamaBowrider 208]

Interesting follow-up...I finally heard back from the company that supplied the rebuilt engine for the PO. I asked the exact question that I originally posted here. This is the response;

 

[Stinnett21]

Not conclusive for me. They're just quoting stuff from the aforementioned manual(s). I'm going to stick with what QBhoy, Scott and I have field determined.

 

[BamaBowrider 208]

So I finally talked with the guy that runs the shop that rebuilt the engine. I am going to share exactly what he told me, so take it for what it is worth or disregard entirely........first I was trying to determine if the long block actually had an oil pan installed or if the original pan off the 5.0 was transplanted. He verified that the 5.7 pan and new pump were installed at the shop.

Then we had a lengthy discussion on oil capacity, oil types and coolers. I asked a lot of questions and he answered them all. Basically he said that it didn't matter how much oil you put in a small block chevy style engine with a stock pan as long as it was between 4 and 7 quarts, but his opinion was 5.5 was the perfect amount. He said if you were just going to putt around the marina with the engine idling then a minimum of 4 quarts was just fine, but if you wanted to haul A$$ and run the thing WOT then you better have at least 5.5 quarts in it to compensate for the amount of oil being pumped through the engine at high RPMs and still have enough volume left in the pan to not starve the pump.

 

[Lou C]

And going back to the first post if you do not run and warm up the engine before changing you will NEVER get all the old oil out. When I do mine I warm it up and using the garden hose adapter it sucks the pan dry at the end it’s sucking air.
The OMC/Volvo drain system actually has the drain tube connected to the drain hole in the pan with a banjo bolt so you can get it all out.

 

[Stinnett21]

Hmm, well Bama your guy certainly sounds like he knows his stuff. I may start going with 5 qts.

 

[MagKarl]

I recently used a vacuum extractor for the first time on my 305. I was skeptical so I pulled the plug and measured the leftover that wasn't sucked out. I got less than 6 ounces, which equates to around 3-3.5% of the fill. YMMV.

 

[KD4UPL]

I chased this same issue a couple years ago on my '04 Mag 350. I could fine sources listing anywhere from 4 to 6 quarts for the same engine. I typically run it about 6 quarts which actually reads to much on the stick. I figure too much is better than too little. I've had no problems in 3 years of running it this way.

 

[QBhoy]

I chased this same issue a couple years ago on my '04 Mag 350. I could fine sources listing anywhere from 4 to 6 quarts for the same engine. I typically run it about 6 quarts which actually reads to much on the stick. I figure too much is better than too little. I've had no problems in 3 years of running it this way.

Too much can be absolutely disastrous. No doubt about that.

 

[Lou C]

I recently used a vacuum extractor for the first time on my 305. I was skeptical so I pulled the plug and measured the leftover that wasn't sucked out. I got less than 6 ounces, which equates to around 3-3.5% of the fill. YMMV.

It depends on the oil pan design, if the plug is at the very bottom it will get more, if on the side it may leave a bit, but still in all that really doesn't matter as long as you are doing regular oil changes. I've always been surprised at the lack of sludge in my old engine, with 1x a year oil changes and running at the cooler temps typical in marine engines it has always been very clean under the valve covers and in the cam valley.

 

[BamaBowrider 208]

And going back to the first post if you do not run and warm up the engine before changing you will NEVER get all the old oil out. When I do mine I warm it up and using the garden hose adapter it sucks the pan dry at the end it’s sucking air.
The OMC/Volvo drain system actually has the drain tube connected to the drain hole in the pan with a banjo bolt so you can get it all out.

The condition of the oil in the motor was unknown, since I had just recently purchased the boat. If there would have been any water in it I didn't want to circulate it by running the engine until it warmed up. This engine has the 90 degree swivel fitting at the back of the pan with the drain hose that goes out of the bilge drain hole in the transom. I drained the oil a few weeks back when temps were in the mid 70's....I left the plug out for well over an hour while I worked on other stuff, I'm pretty sure 99% of the oil came out.

 

[BamaBowrider 208]

I chased this same issue a couple years ago on my '04 Mag 350. I could fine sources listing anywhere from 4 to 6 quarts for the same engine. I typically run it about 6 quarts which actually reads to much on the stick. I figure too much is better than too little. I've had no problems in 3 years of running it this way.

Thanks, good to know..........I'm planning to run this one with 5.5 qts

 

[nola mike]

Too much is *not* better than too little (at least it isn't good). You're more likely to do damage running a qt high than rubbing a qt low (though you're probably fine either way)