Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

[anders_and]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

Hello fellow Stramadas!

I finally started the tear down. It was not as bad as i expected, thanks for the heads up barato2!

I was working the whole easter holiday with the boat, my soon-to-be-wife was not that happy, but she's happy that i have a new hobby now.
We got the boat out from her grave with my dads car, had to chop some wood in front of the boat so that we could back up the car in to the trailer. After we got her out, i started the investigation and tear-down. The first day i cleaned all the muck, and i found out that there were many bee hives in the boat, also all kind of little creatures, who had happily lived in the boat for many years. But now they have to find a new home. I also took a part the bow seat, rear seat, control desk and started to unplug all the electronics.

The next day i finished the unplugging and gave the boat her first clean in many years. From underneath all the muck is emerging a real beauty. My wife will be jealous! I also took the motor away. Our neighbour will have a look at it if something can be done to it. Otherwise the boat will get a motor upgrade.

Day 3 the boat arrived to my parents back yard. I started the tear down of the transom and the flooring. The plywood floor was not as bad as i would have thought, but oh boy had the urethane sucked in water. It was absolutely soggy. The transom plywood seemed in rather good shape. I got stuck in tearing the transom away. I am too worried to take the boat in too many parts so that i cant put it back together. There will be a picture of the transom. Do you think it is still ok, or would you suggest to change it also?

I will continue with this project next weekend. Pictures are up on Flickr, here is the link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/laak1/

 

[64osby]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

Change the transom and everything else that is made of wood, foam or vinyl. Take pics of everything as you pull it a part and you will be able to reference them as you reassemble.

Looks 100% better already. My vote will be it can be saved.

Good luck. :joyous:

 

[classiccat]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

You've got my vote!

You're working with a great hull.

Get that old soggy foam out and replace the transom. There's discoloration in all of the through-bolts...and the tie-down u-bolts are sunken/recessed.

 

[Watermann]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

Tervetuloa anders! I like your SC and think she will fix up great. :thumb:

 

[dozerII]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

A little elbow grease and it already looks 100% better. I agree all the wood in the boat should be replaced.

 

[barato2]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

lookin 100% better with a money investment of zero! nice progress. nothing unfixable there. and i suspect you might be able to get much nicer plywood than we can.

my soon-to-be-wife was not that happy, but she's happy that i have a new hobby now.
just keep reminding her what i do my wife: boat resto keeps you too poor, too busy, and too distracted for other women to become an issue!

 

[anders_and]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

Hello all,

the project is under good progress, i have now took apart the flooring and all the urethane. Tomorrow will i clean the hull, check for leaks and then start to remove the transom.

How do you remove glue stains from aluminium? Do you have any good tricks?

I am replacing the urethane with Finnfoam. It is a type of thermal insulation material. More info Composition and structure - Finnfoam Oy Would this be proper material?

Has the urethane foam any other function than keeping the boat floating? i.e some structural function, in keeping the hull more stable? would i need to take this in consideration?

Also i am planning on making the flooring of aluminium diamond plate. Do some of you have good experience of it, or would you recommend on using plywood/something else?

I will post pictures tomorrow, they are still on my camera which i forgot by the boat!

 

[Watermann]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

There's a nasty chore behind you getting all the decking and that foam out. :thumb:

Oh yeah adhesive has met it's match when it comes to using...

Put the Xylene in a spray bottle and apply it liberally to the affected area. Allow it time to work into the adhesive before attempting to remove but don't wait until the Xylene flashes off and is dry again. Use a 3m pad with a handle, paint scraper or wire wheel depending on your surface and how stubborn the glue is. It may take a second application as well and end with a rag to wipe it clean.

With the structure of SC aluminum boats the pour in foam doesn't need to be used for hull support, you can use the closed cell foam boards.

Diamond plate is very expensive, slippery when wet, hot in summer like a skillet and difficult to work with/cut to shape. I wouldn't recommend using it.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

I agree, diamond plate may not be a great choice.

It looks like the FinnFoam is similar to the closed cell foam we can get at HD/Lowes

 

[anders_and]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

Ok, so a few pictures. Here is the empty hull. Still need to remove the transom and the wiring.



The plywood was not as bad as thought. It has been attached for what, 30 years?

Diamond plate is very expensive, slippery when wet, hot in summer like a skillet and difficult to work with/cut to shape. I wouldn't recommend using it.

Thank you Watermann for your input, but I am still leaning on making the flooring of diamond plate.
For my work have i used a boat with diamond plate flooring and it has not been that slippery or hot. Well, maybe that is because our Finnish summer isn't that hot I would get the diamond plates for aprox. 280 dollars.

I like that the diamond plate would be "lasting" and i wouldnt need to change it never again. Has there been any talk on this forum about plywood vs alumn plate? i did not find anything with search.

This is a picture of the boat i used for work


The fuel tank was made of plastic and looks to be in good shape.



Next will i give the hull a good cleaning, check for leaks and then start on removing the transom and cutting the finnfoam in to shape. I will have alot of time during May day/Walpurgis Night -holidays

 

[Watermann]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

What thickness is the diamond plate your planning on using? Something to plan ahead for then since your set on using DP. You'll find also that DP is not going to work over much of span without a lot of flex and it will need a bunch of reinforcement under the deck to support it adequately.

Bluefin needs to see that empty hull picture, what a radical difference between your Mariner and our older SS's and Chieftains.

 

[anders_and]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

Thank you again. You have made me thinking. After all, the plywood i took away had lasted for aprox 30(?) years. I would see the DP easier to install. I wouldnt need to coat it with epoxy and it wouldnt need for example any vinyl coating. But then again with plywood, no reinforcement would be needed. Well, i have to ponder this for a while.

The DP would be 1/8"

What do you mean with "not going to work over much of span without a lot of flex". English is not my first language.

My father bought this boat used in maybe '94. I could ask him more about whom he bought it from. What are the main differences you see?

 

[Watermann]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

The DP would bend down (flex) from the weight of being walked on without having extra support under the deck is all. I see your point for sure about not having to coat or cover the plywood.

Take a look at my Chieftain thread for the bare hull pictures and Bluefin's SS, you will see the difference.

I know what you mean about 2nd languages, my family came from Ostfriesland Duetchland and as I grew up I learned English as a 1st language and German was 2nd.

 

[Grandad]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

Hi Anders. Just a couple of thoughts.
When the boat was new, I assume it didn't leak without Gluvit. I suggest you add some water inside the boat and see if it's necessary to invest in Gluvit. If the hull leaks, I'd definitely use Gluvit. If not, maybe you can save the money.
In regard to diamond plate; aluminum is heavier than water and plywood is lighter than water. Plywood adds to your flotation, diamond plate subtracts from your flotation.
And if money is really scarce, does it need to be painted at this time? You could finish the interior only and save a lot of time and money. As long as the boat is good structurally, is dependable and serves your needs, you could cut your expenses. - Grandad

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

I don't know how much plywood is where you are but here on my 16ss' I used 4 sheets of 5/8" Acx ply at $33.00 per sheet, and 1 gallon of spar varnish at $35.00

My plywood floor only cost $167.00 which is less than your diamond plate floor and my ply floor has no give at all.

If you are trying to save a little cash, I would spar it up and use rustoleum and sand for a floor finish, that would cost less than $30.00 $197.00 still cheaper than the Dp and stronger.


A floor finish kind of like this,




Credit to Cj8Mule for the pic, this is his boat.

 

[classiccat]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

Bluefin needs to see that empty hull picture, what a radical difference between your Mariner and our older SS's and Chieftains.

Yeah baby, really dig the way these hulls are put together! Pics of it have already been saved :madgrin:

 

[anders_and]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

Hello all,

the boat is coming along, slow but steady. I did yesterday a leak check and found one hole and about five seam leaks. How should i fix the hole? With 5200 and a rivet? Or is another method better? The seams i will fix with a marine epoxy (no gluvit ):

And thank you all for your input in the plate vs plywood discussion. I have made a decision and will go with plywood. I think it will be better in the end.

Pics are found in flickr

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

How'd you get the water to stay in the hull when you tipped the boat up on it's side:

Which seams are leaking?

If you can fill the hole w/ a rivet dipped in 5200, that'll work. Just make sure it's an aluminum, closed end, blind rivet. Or buck a solid rivet.

 

[anders_and]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

How'd you get the water to stay in the hull when you tipped the boat up on it's side

Gravity works differently in Finland

It is the seam where bottom and side meets. What do i need to take in consideration when fixing the side seam. It needs to be clean and dry, anything else?

I am planning on using this rivet for the hole fix. Is it the right one? Vetoniitit DIN 7337 A-malli Al/St Paineenkest?v? - Pameto - Adeona tuotehakemisto

Vetoniitit DIN 7337 A-malli Al/St Paineenkest?v? = "draw"rivet DIN 7337 A-model Aluminium/St Pressureholding.

Is a basic rivet gun a sufficent tool to use, or would i need a "heavy duty" or even an air pressure one?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Project: Starcraft Mariner 170 1989, very bad shape

Looks like a closed end blind aluminum rivet to me

And it may say that on the site you linked, but my Finnish isn't so good

The seam that runs up to & appears to end right at the bow eye in this pix:

That's at the chine. That may need extremely close scrutiny at the suspected leak site to make sure the seam is just seeping water thru it, and NOT otherwise damaged.

Post a pix of where you think it's leaking (from inside & outside)