Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

[chazz11bravo]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

Thanks for the info, it is noted.

Last night I started making my transom template, hope to cut the transom pieces this weekend and get them bonded together.

I know a good parts guy for your transom mount (I'm not sure what you call the 1" thick steering "line". He also is great for Chrysler boat motor parts. He has a passion for chryslers. He can give good advice as well. He's in his 60's I'd say and has been a boat motor mechanic for I'd have to say 25+ years. http://www.franzmarine.com/ My Lapline had a 45 horse Chrysler. Or 699cc if your an old Ex-pres' Jimmy Carter fan. I was too young to have an opinion him. Give him a call he's a friendly guy.

 

[rubberbelly]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

http://www.franzmarine.com/

Interesting, I was out in his area about 2 months back and I remembered seeing some old boats outside but I wasn't really paying attention. Thanks for the heads up. I have the original Mercury 950ss that will go back on her.

Got the Poplar taken back to the lumber yard and picked up two more sheets of 1/2 ply. Also got the template made for the transom. It looks like the old transom was only 1" thick, wondering if I should go to 1.5". After getting the transom wood cut, I may build a cradle as the boat is currently setting on the trailer. Next big task is to strip the inside of the hull.

 

[chazz11bravo]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

Interesting, I was out in his area about 2 months back and I remembered seeing some old boats outside but I wasn't really paying attention. Thanks for the heads up. I have the original Mercury 950ss that will go back on her.

Got the Poplar taken back to the lumber yard and picked up two more sheets of 1/2 ply. Also got the template made for the transom. It looks like the old transom was only 1" thick, wondering if I should go to 1.5". After getting the transom wood cut, I may build a cradle as the boat is currently setting on the trailer. Next big task is to strip the inside of the hull.

I bought as universal transom mount kit from him. I got it in like 3-4 days and the price wasnt too bad either. I just need to find a motor now. I'm going 84 or newer johnson. I'm done with points vs electronic ignition. More parts for those motors too. after market and OEM.

 

[rubberbelly]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

So I know what the answer is going to be but will post for fun anyway.

The original transom was 1 inch thick... Should I put it back as 1 inch or go to 1.5"?

Going to 1.5" will require changes to the cap.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

Going to 1.5" will require changes to the cap.

What portion of the cap will require changes. What does that 950 weigh? Was the hull rated for it?

 

[rubberbelly]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

Roughly 275lbs from what I have read.
Will have to look at the HID tag tonight but this is the factory engine that came on the boat.

The motor splash well is the part I am concerned about. It goes from the top edge of the transom, down the interior of the transom creating the splash well. (if that doesn't make sense I can post pictures tonight).

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

What is your thought on going to 1.5" if it was 1" OEM?

If you want to, it wouldn't be that much extra work, unless you want to run a full 1.5" on it all. In which case, you'll need to do as you asked & modify the splashwell.

Very often, slight grinding & cutting on the interior 'lip' of the splashwell, where it contacts the wooden transom, is required to properly fit the cap back on the boat anyway. Even when you're very careful during hull support, demo & put back.

If you are positive it was 1" and you want to run 1.5" w/ as little extra demo & putback as possible, I'd figure out exactly how much of the transom wood needs to be 1". Then make the changes to your transom wood, not the splashwell. Then leave the full thickness of 1.5" on the rest of the transom wood. As long as you're positive the 950 was original & the transom wood was 1".

Minimal extra work, no extra putback to re-work the splashwell, and the cap will fit....

When they go to reconnect the cap & hull, some slather the top of the transom wood in PB & allow it to fully fill the space in & around the transom wood as the splashwell is lowered back down on top of it. Similar to the way it was done originally, in some boats.

 

[rubberbelly]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

What is your thought on going to 1.5" if it was 1" OEM?

My plan has been to put in 1.5" until I found that it was 1" when I was making the transom template. I would prefer the strength but wasn't sure if it was overkill and worth the extra fiberglass work.

 

[rubberbelly]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

Here is a quick picture of the splash well area of the cap. I should probably set the cap back on the hull to get a better idea.

 

[chazz11bravo]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

What is your thought on going to 1.5" if it was 1" OEM?

If you want to, it wouldn't be that much extra work, unless you want to run a full 1.5" on it all. In which case, you'll need to do as you asked & modify the splashwell.

Very often, slight grinding & cutting on the interior 'lip' of the splashwell, where it contacts the wooden transom, is required to properly fit the cap back on the boat anyway. Even when you're very careful during hull support, demo & put back.

If you are positive it was 1" and you want to run 1.5" w/ as little extra demo & putback as possible, I'd figure out exactly how much of the transom wood needs to be 1". Then make the changes to your transom wood, not the splashwell. Then leave the full thickness of 1.5" on the rest of the transom wood. As long as you're positive the 950 was original & the transom wood was 1".

Minimal extra work, no extra putback to re-work the splashwell, and the cap will fit....

When they go to reconnect the cap & hull, some slather the top of the transom wood in PB & allow it to fully fill the space in & around the transom wood as the splashwell is lowered back down on top of it. Similar to the way it was done originally, in some boats.

I couldn't agree more. Not that I'm an expert on the subject. There's a plate (or was) on your boat that will give you an HP limit as well. My Lapline is at 90. But I'll never put that much on her. 55-60hp is the range I'm shooting for. I can't take risks where I fish too often. The waves get taller than boat and the water is about 55 degrees all year long.

 

[chazz11bravo]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

Here is a quick picture of the splash well area of the cap. I should probably set the cap back on the hull to get a better idea.

your S.W. is deeper than mine. It looks really sturdy. That with the 1.5 it should be handle roseanne barr strapped to the back. Can you just glass and coat the extra 1/2? BTW I'd appreciate seeing the pics of your building process if that's not too much of a pain in the ***. If my suggestions sound like shots in the dark from someone clueless. Well... I was a machinist before I enlisted. We came built all kinds of "not in the book" equipment mods, die's, and tools using ways of improving/getting around the rules projects.

 

[rubberbelly]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

My boat does not have the HP ratings tag... So I am splitting the difference and doing a 1.25" transom thickness.

1/2" + 3/4" Cut and laminated together with Ultrabond III...

The top wings are separate pieces and are only 1" (1/2"+1/2") thick like the originals. In looking at the cap it would have been impossible to go thicker without big mods to the cap.

Also got the boat off the trailer and I need to build a cradle. Brought the cap in and I am concerned about the cap fitting once all the glassing is done. Not sure what I am going to do yet for the cradle to support the sides.

For stringers I have decided on going to a traditional system. Seems like it will be an easier route but will require more time to construct.

 

[chazz11bravo]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

My boat does not have the HP ratings tag... So I am splitting the difference and doing a 1.25" transom thickness.

1/2" + 3/4" Cut and laminated together with Ultrabond III...

The top wings are separate pieces and are only 1" (1/2"+1/2") thick like the originals. In looking at the cap it would have been impossible to go thicker without big mods to the cap.

Also got the boat off the trailer and I need to build a cradle. Brought the cap in and I am concerned about the cap fitting once all the glassing is done. Not sure what I am going to do yet for the cradle to support the sides.

For stringers I have decided on going to a traditional system. Seems like it will be an easier route but will require more time to construct.

What are you using to cover transom after you mount the new wood. I need to do some touch up work on the fiber glass section. There are a few cracks that need some work. They're small ones in the corners so I'm assuming I don't need take the whole section out. But Ill reinspect one more time of course. But the wood was in good condition. I was thinking of just using fiberglass and resin to patch over the cracks. Thoughts, suggestions, knowledge?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

What are you using to cover transom after you mount the new wood. I need to do some touch up work on the fiber glass section. There are a few cracks that need some work. They're small ones in the corners so I'm assuming I don't need take the whole section out. But Ill reinspect one more time of course. But the wood was in good condition. I was thinking of just using fiberglass and resin to patch over the cracks. Thoughts, suggestions, knowledge?

Chazz, if you start a thread, post some pix & ask some questions, you'll get plenty of responses. Boat work junkies around these parts

Cracks need to be addressed before getting covered, they will often telegraph thru the new work, &/or continue to crack & get worse....

 

[rubberbelly]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

Well I thought I had a suitable cradle built but.... the cap doesn't fit so I am back to the drawing board how frustrating! Thinking I may get the transom in then reattach the cap before doing the stringers/floor...

 

[chevyandgmc]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

The hull may have twisted or warped. i have seen in other restorations where they used all thread rod from one side of the boat to the other used to keep shape .. you ccould probably use all thread to bring it back to shape also... not sure where i saw the all thread used but am sure it was on i boats. i to have started on a late sixties resto. currently down to removing all the foam and then will take measurements for new stringers and grind out old glass.. i think mine is a 67 lapline

 

[petertay]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

It's been a while since anyone posted here. How did the boat turn out, or will it be a while yet before splash?
Anyway, I am starting the same project on a similar Larson, and am wondering about removing the cap. You seemed to have a lot of grief getting it off and on. Rubberbelly, do you think you could have done the job without taking the cap off?
I've seen on other threads that some guys just cut away part of the splash well allowing access to work on the transom. That is what I would like to do, but am asking what others think. No point in cutting up the splash well if the cap will have to be removed after all.
Peter

 

[rubberbelly]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

It's been a while since anyone posted here. How did the boat turn out, or will it be a while yet before splash?
Anyway, I am starting the same project on a similar Larson, and am wondering about removing the cap. You seemed to have a lot of grief getting it off and on. Rubberbelly, do you think you could have done the job without taking the cap off?
I've seen on other threads that some guys just cut away part of the splash well allowing access to work on the transom. That is what I would like to do, but am asking what others think. No point in cutting up the splash well if the cap will have to be removed after all.
Peter

It will be a bit before splash. Got my transom laminated together then got frustrated about the cap not fitting. Will get back to it soon, it has been cold her in the Midwest and I am being lazy

Yes it could be done without removing the cap but I was not willing to work under the bow...

 

[aspeck]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

Petertay, it is much better to start your own thread with a question than to hijack someone else's thread. Rule #12 asks you to do just that. Thank you for your understanding.

 

[chazz11bravo]

Re: Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

Thanks for the comments guys.

Last night I researched engine stands and think Imay use an automotive engine stand that is setting in the garage with nothing to do. If that doesn't work, I'll build a complete stand.

Until I get the motor off there is not much I can get done on it so I am getting restless.

Jason

There are some good designs that also allow you run the engine using a 50 gallon barrel if you don't have a pair of "ear muffs". I'm building one of those types as soon as it gets stops raining or gets above 50F. :rain: & :cold: = Gotta love the Puget Sound area weather I should've listened to Mark Twain more... :facepalm: Getting the engine on that is the hard part. Of course due to the weight of it. I highly suggest an A frame getting the motor on the stand, if your low on personel to help. I dropped mine and severelt injured my shoulder by trying to save it. Luckily a tomotoe plant's large pot broke it's fall.