Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

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TilliamWe

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

Removing an outdrive is BY FAR the easiest part of an engine removal job. Very simple to figure out. Just a little awkward and heavy, that's all.
 

NHGuy

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

No matter what you do don't use those exhaust manifolds & risers til they are thoroughly checked and cleared. I'd hate to see you buy or fix an engine and then reconnect it to a part that could have been the cause of trouble in the first place. Engines don't just magically create water in the combustion chambers. The engine issue is probably the symptom, make sure you also fix the cause.
 

Pete104

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

I sent a pm. Seeking info from you! Thanks
 

Bondo

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

and second I would then have to pull the drive which seems like a lot more work. I replaced a lower unit on my old alpha, but never removed an upper. How difficult is that?

Ayuh,... It's 6 or 8 nuts, 'n a $7.00 gasket set to reinstall it...

How long have you owned this boat, 'n Not pulled the drive for Service, 'n routine Maintenance,..??
It's Supposed to be done Annually,...
 

jerryb1

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

Okay i took off both heads and see no obvious problems. I didnt see any blown gaskets or cracks anywhere. I'm thinking it was probably just the risers or exh. manifolds which I will replace. As far as taking off the drive., I owned the boat for 1.5 years, but owned a 1981 for 8 years. That boat I replaced the lower unit on it.
Beside changing the drive oil very year, what do I have to service every year beside that? The raw water pump is on the engine.
Regarding the flaps, is there one on each side or just one after the y connection?
So is the consensus i should get a Vortec block and heads and basically have a new engine. That gets expensive though with new manifolds, risers and elbows. Maybe I should get my heads rebuilt to get the compression back up, new exhaust and put it back together?
 

TilliamWe

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

You should be greasing the u-joints on the drive shaft. Removing it also allows you to inspect the inside of the bellows for leaking gear lube. You also check the gimbal bearing, and the alignment of the drive to the engine. If you have a Bravo (which it sounds like you do) you don't even need a gasket, just don't damage the large "o-rings) and you can re-use them.
Exhaust shutters are on each side of the Y-Pipe, near the top.
 

Pete104

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

Jerry
Have the heads tested as long as they are off. If you opt for a new engine (long or short) No WAY use the original manifolds OR Risers! In other words, it's money well spent (now) because they are probably your problem anyway.
 

jerryb1

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

Thanks Guys,
This forum is an extremely valueable tool. You guys save DIY's like me a ton of money.
I am bringing the heads in to a machine shop for testing and rework tomorrow. I know the valves and seats need to be replaced or honed because the compression was low. I dont know what a good price for that service is. The shop I spoke to mentioned $175. a piece and new would be $375 a piece. A couple of questions;

Manifolds and risers-Are the aftermarket OSCO or Sierra good or is it better to spend the extra money on Mercruiser OEM. Also, do I need elbows also?
 

jerryb1

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

I called another machine shop for a rework price quote and they gave me a price of $299 per head. When i said I could buy new for $375. his answer was 'we dont sell heads'. Anyhow, the guy knew boats and suggested I do one other test before proceeding with replacing the heads. He said to crank the engine and make sure all the cylinders come all the way up to the top. He thought hydrolock may bend a rod and I wouldnt notice anything until I went to 4000 RPM and it would probably break apart. That test makes sense to me. What do you guys think?
Thanks
 
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TilliamWe

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

I think reconditioning your heads for $175 a piece is a fair price. That's about what I paid, 5 and a half years ago!
 

Pete104

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

OEM only!
The price for reconditioning the heads for $175? Don't get me wrong but, what if he finds cracked seat? It's junk! I'm not really happy with you parting w/$600 either. But I assume this includes new valves & springs and ya-da ya-da. What would this guy do for ya if he found a crack? I'm thinking he would find a good one somewhere & not say anything. Which, does work in your favor!
But, definitly go with OEM manifolds & risers. No, I'm not here to spend other peoples money.
 

TilliamWe

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

I had a cracked head when mine were reconned, it was $175 for a reconned head, and $165 to recon my other head (with part from both of my heads). Had i known there was only a $10 a piece difference, I would have saved the two days and just bought the reconned heads in the first place. They worked great.
 

jerryb1

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

Here's the latest update. I had the heads tested and there were pin holes between the water passages and the head. $500 later I have new heads that I just put on. I also bought new manifolds risers and elbows. Now I have it all back together and trying to get it running. I had no spark, and after about 7 hours of troubleshooting the Thunderbolt IV ignition, it turned out to be a loose screw holding the amplifier to the distributor. The ground for the amplifier is made through one of the mounting screws that hold it to the distributor. It's a terrible design. The wiring diagram shows a black wire ground in the 6 pin connector,but this 1994 only had 4 wires and no ground(purple,grey,wh/red, wh/green). Fortunatately, I figured it out before buying a new amplifier or hall sensor. I finally got the spark, but when I went to start it, it backfired and spit a few times, so I stopped. it could be from the excess gas in the carb, when I was cranking with no spark, but I want to check the distributor timing first as I'm not sure I have it in correct. I put a gauge on the number one cylinder and tried to crank the engine and stop as soon as I see compression, but I can't get it to stop exactly on the TDC mark. The distributor shaft has a key, so it only goes all the way down when lined up 180 degrees either way. Any tricks on how to initially set the distributor will help.
Thanks,
Jerry
 

franktrav

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

finding tdc #1 cylinder is easier if u turn the motor over by hand..not the start
use a wrench ,socket on the center bolt of crank pulley,,,removing sparkplugs will make it roll over alot easier and lessen the chances of damaging the bolt yer wrench is on..
you can also use a long screwdriver to position the oil pump slot in the distributer shaft hole so the distributor drops in exactly where you need it for the rotor to point to #1 sparkplug wire
 

jerryb1

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

finding tdc #1 cylinder is easier if u turn the motor over by hand..not the start
use a wrench ,socket on the center bolt of crank pulley,,,removing sparkplugs will make it roll over alot easier and lessen the chances of damaging the bolt yer wrench is on..
you can also use a long screwdriver to position the oil pump slot in the distributer shaft hole so the distributor drops in exactly where you need it for the rotor to point to #1 sparkplug wire
Turning the slot in the oil pump confuses me. Isnt that tied to the crank case? Wouldn't that have to turn the engine?
 

FreeBeeTony

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

Turning the slot in the oil pump confuses me. Isnt that tied to the crank case? Wouldn't that have to turn the engine?

NO, the oil pump is driven by the dist. which is driven by the cam shaft.
With the dist removed you can position the oil pump drive with the screwdriver.....
 

franktrav

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

Turning the slot in the oil pump confuses me. Isnt that tied to the crank case? Wouldn't that have to turn the engine?
nope....not tied to the crank....the oil pump is operated by the dist. shaft.
dist shaft turned by the camshaft
 

Bondo

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

Turning the slot in the oil pump confuses me. Isnt that tied to the crank case? Wouldn't that have to turn the engine?

Nope,... The crank Case don't turn or nothing, 'n I suppose the oil pump is bolted to it sorta, as the rear main Is part of the crank Case...

It's the crankShaft that turns, 'n it don't drive the oil pump, directly atleast...
'course, Tony, 'n Frank explained that,.... ;)
 

jerryb1

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

Okay, I see, The gear shaft is fixed, but the slot in the middle is only tied to the oil pump. I was able to turn it and get the distributor in with the rotor pointing at #1.
The problem now is getting it to start, It spits and seems to fire only once per revolution with an occasional backfire. I double checked that the plug wires are sequenced right. I'm not sure what to do next. I can't get it started.
 

Bondo

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Re: Probable cause of water in cylinders on mercruseser 260 V8

Okay, I see, The gear shaft is fixed, but the slot in the middle is only tied to the oil pump. I was able to turn it and get the distributor in with the rotor pointing at #1.
The problem now is getting it to start, It spits and seems to fire only once per revolution with an occasional backfire. I double checked that the plug wires are sequenced right. I'm not sure what to do next. I can't get it started.

Ayuh,... The distributer is 180? out...

The motor was on #1 exhaust, not compression stroke...
 
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