Pressure treated vs fiberglass

Prkranger2

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Apr 17, 2005
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Is it possible to just use pressure treated lumber for stringers instead of using unpressure treated and fiberglass? I have to replace stringers.
 

Laddies

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

Pressure treated lumber is heavy and hard to get a bond on, how would you attach it to the rest of the hull?
 

tengals123

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Jan 26, 2005
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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

yeah, weight would be one issue. Price would be another and not sure but I would'nt leave any wood/timer on my boat unsealed no matter what.<br /><br />cheers
 

Prkranger2

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Apr 17, 2005
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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

I am a newbie to this. I was told that I could use a waterproof glue like liquid nails to attach the wood?
 

tengals123

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

No, absolutley not. Stringers are a major part in your boats strength and integrity. These are super, super important. They need to be waterproofed and fixed to the hull using epoxy and fiberglass. The area needs to be sanded and cleaned also. I would suggest you do a search on ' stringer replacement' etc, to find out all the finer details. Do not skip this step, do not cut corners here, your safety, pleasure and money will otherwise be comprimised.<br />cheers
 

Prkranger2

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

Thanks for the help for the past two days I have been getting prices and material info to do this project. What should I use to clean the fiberglass in the bottom of the hull?
 

jim dozier

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

Many people think that using pressure treated wood would be a good idea because it is rot resistant. Wood rots when it gets wet. When wood gets wet it loses a lot of its strength. By encapsulating wood with epoxy you can keep it dry. If you keep it dry you keep it strong. If you keep it dry it won't rot. Then there is the whole other issue of bonding to pressure treated wood. Apparently if you get treated wood real dry it will work. But I don't think I would bother.<br /><br />I would clean the fiberglass with mechanical abrasives (sandpaper). Then a final wipedown with acetone.
 

tengals123

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

jimd is right, clean with acetone first, then sand, then clean again with acetone. Lay a layer of epoxy on your area, then lay fiberglass cloth, roll out all bumps, then paint another layer of epoxy over the cloth. Follow up next day with a quick clean of acetone ( not too much) and a final copat of epoxy. That's it!<br />cheers
 

BillP

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

The idea of resin not sticking to pt plywood is based on old and outdated pt processes that used petroleum. Newer processes don't use pet oil and resin sticks to them. The American Plywood Association (APA) tested CCA pt ply with polyester resin and it worked same as non treated ply. Regardless of that, Greenwood Products has been making marine pt ply for 20+ yrs. It is used in many production boats and there are zero bonding issues. Google a little on boat mfgs and see it in use...called XL.<br /><br />I restored a boat with pt wood for stringers, floors and transom but used epoxy resin to make sure there were no bonding issues. It's been several years and the boat gets used hard. No problems.
 

Prkranger2

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

Thanks to you all this is really helpful. I purchased this boat for $250 a 1982 Marc I made by McDaniel boats it is a run about. I have to replace the stringers and floor. I have learned alot the last couple days.
 

Prkranger2

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

BillP did you put fiberglass over the pt wood that you used? What was the process you used?
 

90skichallenger

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Apr 18, 2005
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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

When I redid my floor I did the same thing I used treated plywood and then used a paint brush to coat it with fiberglass resin on both sides to seal it. When I was done that piece of wood was hard as a rock and has worked just wonderfully.<br /> ;)
 

Prkranger2

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

I am understand you correctly you used pt wood and just put resin and hardner on it to seal it?
 

Laddies

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

Why spend the extra money for a product that is heavy, with quistionable bonding, if you seal any wood properly it won't rot. Coating with only polyester resin alone will not add strength, it takes mat. or cloth. You may encapsulate plywood by simply squegeing epoxy on it, as epoxy is a glue--Bob
 

Laddies

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

Sorry but I meant to mention that west system epoxys has a very good site with alot of information
 

jcarenz

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Apr 24, 2005
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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

I aggree with Bob, I recently added a floor to an aluminum boat. I found no need to use glass fabric, just a couple good coats of resin and hardener. If the wood is dry enough, it will soak up the 1st coat of resin. As far as marine grade vs standard cdx, it really will not matter that much if you plan to put on at least 2 good coats of resin. The marine grade plywood is about twice the cost, but it has very few voids in it and will be less suseptable to moisture and will likely take less resin to seal. If you want to add strength, then you should probably use some glass fabric as well.
 

BillP

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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

Originally posted by Prkranger2:<br /> BillP did you put fiberglass over the pt wood that you used? What was the process you used?
I used standard pt from the local lumber yard and let it dry in my shop from several months to over a year. Center stringer was a 2"x12"x 20' timber. Side stringers were 3/4" plywood. The original floor was 1/2" ply and I upped the size to 3/4" to make up for the low grade lumber. Over kill with wood and glass added approx 100lbs to the boat. I can't tell it. <br /><br />Actually, the cheap ply was excellent. Hardly any voids and one side had no voids. Much better than we used to find years ago.<br /><br />I glassed (1.5oz mat & 18oz woven roven)the stringers (1.5,18,1.5,18)and transom (2 layers 1.5)using epoxy resin. The floor was sealed both sides with thinned epoxy resin and tabbed in around the edges with thickened epoxy and glass strips (1.5, 18, 1.5) approx 8" wide.<br /><br />Here's a pic showing the bottom of the floor after coating with epoxy...lots of it.<br />
4rygxi
<br /><br />Here's a pic showing the top of floor during trial fit. Notice how blem free the top ply is.<br />
4ryhch
 

cc lancer

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Aug 23, 2004
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Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

Well Park Ranger you probably would have better luck finding Smokey the Bear rather than the Marine XL plywood mentioned above. :) <br /><br />The stuff has been around for years and is used here on the NC coast for building big boats from the ground up. Boat builders first called it Israeli plywood because it was made in Israel and is considered the best in the world. The trade name is Okoume, the reason it is used in big boats that stay in the water is it rot resistant and marine growth resistant.<br />Is it the best YES.....do you need it no. Got a grip on the mouse, a 4X8X 1/2 sheet will cost you $100.00, if you buy at least $10,000.00 worth the price drops to $89.00 per sheet.<br />I was at a Yacht builders place near Harkers Island, NC at Easter time, and they were building a 56 foot sportfisherman. The bottom has 3 layers of this plywood, then the hull is coated with epoxy. Inside they use epoxy and glass to totally seal the hull.<br />The massive stringers, to hold down the two big Cat. diesels, are also glass and epoxy. The bulkheads appeared to be regular exterior plywood with one layer of glass and epoxy.<br />Bill said he used regular treated plywood, I don't, but I respect his opinion. I think that with the possibility of the wood getting wet and leeching out the chemicals, the epoxy or Poly.will lose its bond. I have pulled out stringers made from reg plywood and poly that was rotten and it still had a bond to the plywood.<br />When I do stringers, I run a piece of yellow pine through the table saw, and cut a piece of wood to eliminate the 90 degree angle at the stringer, turning it into a 45 degree.<br />The hull is scuffed up, and the stringer is placed in resin and 6 oz. cloth. The angle piece is done the same way, and screwed into the stringer. I then build up this area with pieces of 10oz. running half way up the stringer. The top half on the stringer gets one layer of cloth and resin, that drapes over the stringer and meets the cloth on the other side. After it hardens, there is no "wiggle" in the stringer.<br /><br />Just a different way to skin a mountain lion. :)
 

turbo_pete

Cadet
Joined
Jun 30, 2005
Messages
12
Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

Originally posted by Prkranger2:<br /> Thanks to you all this is really helpful. I purchased this boat for $250 a 1982 Marc I made by McDaniel boats it is a run about. I have to replace the stringers and floor. I have learned alot the last couple days.
Prkranger2 - I also have a McDaniel, an 17' '85 Mark IV F&S. You are the only other person I've ever met that has one. Have you ever found and info regarding the McDaniel company and/or their boats? ANy pointers would be appreciated. Good luck with your restoration.<br /><br />Pete
 

turbo_pete

Cadet
Joined
Jun 30, 2005
Messages
12
Re: Pressure treated vs fiberglass

Originally posted by Prkranger2:<br /> Thanks to you all this is really helpful. I purchased this boat for $250 a 1982 Marc I made by McDaniel boats it is a run about. I have to replace the stringers and floor. I have learned alot the last couple days.
Prkranger2 - I also have a McDaniel, an 17' '85 Mark IV F&S. You are the only other person I've ever met that has one. Have you ever found and info regarding the McDaniel company and/or their boats? ANy pointers would be appreciated. Good luck with your restoration.<br /><br />Pete
 
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