Plastic rivets holding in side panel cupholder remove/replace to give access to grab handles?

lazywater

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Aug 16, 2021
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The grab handles on my 2017 Stingray 198ls pulled loose. I have shimmed the holes with zip-ties and tightened them up, but it's a poor long-term solution. The issue is that they used stainless wood screws from the factory. I'd like to through bolt them with a nut and a washer. Access from behind is a PITA. I thought I would remove the sidewall cupholders to try to get a wrench behind the handles. Access in the bow is even worse as I will need to go through the speaker holes with monkey arms. Is there a recommended procedure for removing the clear/white fasteners that are holding in the cup holder? I tried prying on them with a panel clip removal tool and they aren't coming up like an ordinary car clip. Is it best to just drill these out? Are replacements available or do I go with white automotive tree style clips? Hopefully they didn't also glue this in with 5200.

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Boats are assembled with the lowest cost fasteners. I would potentially use a riv-nut if the glass is thick enough
 

lazywater

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Aug 16, 2021
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Thanks for the reply Scott. I have used rivnuts into aluminum but never fiberglass. I didn't use any special tools, only a couple of wrenches to mushroom them out. I worry that the stainless or galvanized rivnuts will cause it to stress crack from pressure. Maybe the pre-bulbed slotted style that form a cross (aka plusnut) might be OK? I only see that style available in gold zinc over mild steel. Would prefer something like ss or bronze. It's thinner fiberglass (entry level stingray inner shell).
 

lazywater

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Aug 16, 2021
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Thanks for the reply Scott. I have used rivnuts into aluminum but never fiberglass. I didn't use any special tools, only a couple of wrenches to mushroom them out. I worry that the stainless or galvanized rivnuts will cause it to stress crack from pressure. Maybe the pre-bulbed slotted style that form a cross (aka plusnut) might be OK? I only see that style available in gold zinc over mild steel. Would prefer something like ss or bronze. It's thinner fiberglass (entry level stingray inner shell).
I found M6 "jack nuts" in stainless on Ebay and a hand install tool. I think this style might be less likely to damage the fiberglass from too much expansion pressure.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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8,635
The grab handles on my 2017 Stingray 198ls pulled loose. I have shimmed the holes with zip-ties and tightened them up, but it's a poor long-term solution. The issue is that they used stainless wood screws from the factory. I'd like to through bolt them with a nut and a washer. Access from behind is a PITA. I thought I would remove the sidewall cupholders to try to get a wrench behind the handles. Access in the bow is even worse as I will need to go through the speaker holes with monkey arms. Is there a recommended procedure for removing the clear/white fasteners that are holding in the cup holder? I tried prying on them with a panel clip removal tool and they aren't coming up like an ordinary car clip. Is it best to just drill these out? Are replacements available or do I go with white automotive tree style clips? Hopefully they didn't also glue this in with 5200.

View attachment 380588
Really.................give me a break.
 

lazywater

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Aug 16, 2021
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24
If a mod is reading this, go ahead and delete or move this thread. This would be better in a boat interior section and not hull repair.
 

lazywater

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Aug 16, 2021
Messages
24
If a mod is reading this, go ahead and delete or move this thread. This would be better in a boat interior section and not hull repair.
Answered my own question. These are arrow style non-removable panel rivets/clips. Unlike the tree style or push pin plastic clips found on auto interiors, these apparently aren't designed to be removed. Prying them out with a panel removal tool requires enough force that a thin panel can be damaged. Removal options are to cut off the head and push the fastener into the panel or drill it out with a brad point drill bit dead center just large enough to separate the head.
 
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