Painting my 1989 Bayliner, Need some advice

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Just acquired a 1989 Bayliner Trophy 24' Cuddy Cabin, which has real rough gel coat. After doing a ton of research I decided my best bet is to paint, instead of gel coat, below the bumper line. I have painted a lot of automotive applications before (HVLP spray gun - https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Spray-Guns/product/HVLP-Spray-Gun) and would like to do that here. I plan to repair all the chips and dings first, then sand the boat down, clean it, prime it, the use a one-part polyurethane topside paint for the sides below the bumper line.

My question is what size tip do I need for the HVLP gun to deal with topside one-part polyurethane paints?

After completion of painting what method of polishing and waxing is best?

Secondly, a lot of the dings and scuffs to the gel coat that I would like to repair are above the bumper line, which I did not plan to repaint. Talked with someone at West Marina and troubleshot the best way to deal with stress cracks in gel coat and was advised to leave them, unless I want to grind out each one prior to painting, which is more work that I am willing to do, considering they don't bother me that much. That being said I need to deal with covering up my gel coat/fiberglass chip/scuff repairs with something to match the boat. Is the best bet to just use white topside paint? or should I attempt to use a gel coat to match?

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

The current tip I have in the HVLP gun is 1.4mm, but I believe that is too small for one-part polyurethane paint.

Here is a picture of the boat for reference:

 

[Scott Danforth]

not sure single part paints will hold up in a wet environment

 

[silverbul]

maybe a 2 part epoxy paint would do better, a little more expensive but holds up to very rough climate and water conditions. end result surface is slick as snot. they use it in garage, gas stations for the durability. jmo

 

[zool]

The current tip I have in the HVLP gun is 1.4mm, but I believe that is too small for one-part polyurethane paint.

Here is a picture of the boat for reference:

View attachment 382535

A 1.4 tip will be fine for most reduced topcoats...what brand paint are u considering?...the tech sheets will usually tell whats optimum.

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

I had not really looked at paint brands. Not sure why my research led me to a one part, but if you guys say two part is better I'm fine going that route too. Are there paint brands that are generally recommended as the best? Or is that a whole can of worms?

1.4 would be nice, save me $140 on a new tip. Just assumed it was a thicker paint.

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

A 1.4 tip will be fine for most reduced topcoats...what brand paint are u considering?...the tech sheets will usually tell whats optimum.

I've looked at a couple different brands, just to see their instructions, but not seeing any recommendations for which tip to use on a spray gun.

 

[zool]

I've looked at a couple different brands, just to see their instructions, but not seeing any recommendations for which tip to use on a spray gun.

Awlcraft 2000 is what i've been spraying lately. They recommend 1.1-1.2mm

I've been using 1.3mm and have used up to 1.5mm with decent results

https://specialtycoatings.brand.akz...2a/original/Awlcraft_2000_eng_A4_20211018.pdf

This was Awlcraft 2000 with a 1.3 tip for primer and paint

 

[stresspoint]

i use a 2.0 with 2 k epoxy coatings on most boats i paint , the 2.0 seems to cover quicker thus less orange peel and dry spots.
application temperature is more important than nozzle size when coating large fiberglass areas such as hull sides, too cold and it orange peels , too hot and you get dry spots , the 2.0 is IMO the best to reduce both on lager surfaces.

set up some heat lamps , do one side at a time , time your heating of the surface so as the heated surface will be close to the same on both sides , heat > coat > switch sides > heat coat , repeat till you get a uniform finish.

prep is also easier as the final primer sand can be done with 240 paper because the epoxy paint is also a good filler.

after dry sand with 800 and buff with compound of choice or if you are good , your off gun finish will look just fine if you are not looking for a showroom finish.

 

[Chris1956]

A one part polyurethane paint is not recommended for below the waterline use. The paint will likely fail a few days into water immersion.

Imron and Alwgrip are the two part polyurethanes that yachts use. Both are expensive and are recommended for pro use only.

Epoxy paint does not give the fine finish the Poly paints do.

Roll and tip will give good results, if you are not a pro with a spray gun.

 

[1985 Century Mustang]

The current tip I have in the HVLP gun is 1.4mm, but I believe that is too small for one-part polyurethane paint.

Here is a picture of the boat for reference:

View attachment 382535

Good luck on that project, If i may, i'd definitely hit that trailer too. I just did mine with a quart of rust-oleum and a paint brush, it came out really nice and its therapy for a retired guy like me.
: ) What size engine is in that boat?

 

[jbcurt00]

: ) What size engine is in that boat?

Look around, often details are already posted

1989 Bayliner Trophy OMC 5.8L - Help with new boat

I recently purchased a 1989 Bayliner Trophy with a OMC 5.8L stern drive (Model # 584APRMED) and a cobra outdrive. It does not currently run, but most likely due to sitting from previous owner not fixing the common shifting issue (sat for a year or so now, maybe two). I have read up on fixing the...

forums.iboats.com

And doesn't derail the topic about paint w motor discussion

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Yeah I planned to hit the trailer with some cheap rustolium paint eventually (HVLP also).

A lot of good advice here, not sure I am up for a two part poly paint, both financially and skill level. Checked a few out and they are at least twice the cost.

I am good with a spray gun on automotive paints, but never done a boat before.

 

[zool]

Yeah I planned to hit the trailer with some cheap rustolium paint eventually (HVLP also).

A lot of good advice here, not sure I am up for a two part poly paint, both financially and skill level. Checked a few out and they are at least twice the cost.

I am good with a spray gun on automotive paints, but never done a boat before.

A linear Polyurethane paint, like Awlgrip, or Alexseal are difficult to spray and repair, but an Acrylic Urethane like Awlcraft is similar to an automotive AU like PPG Concept or Dupont, so if can spray a single stage auto paint, you can spray Acrylic boat paint. It's quire forgiving actually.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Yeah I planned to hit the trailer with some cheap rustolium paint eventually (HVLP also).

A lot of good advice here, not sure I am up for a two part poly paint, both financially and skill level. Checked a few out and they are at least twice the cost.

I am good with a spray gun on automotive paints, but never done a boat before.

Go here.

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See link 19

Rust-Oleum paint, magic brand hardener and acetone. About $125 to paint your boat assuming you have done all the prep and do not need repair

It will hold up for about a week in the water (however not for moored boats)

You can spray gel for about $300 if you just want to do white

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

I also have a Graco x5 airless paint sprayer. Does anyone use airless paint sprayers for boats?

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Anyone use an airless paint sprayer?

 

[Scott Danforth]

for painting a house maybe. then again, it put so much paint in the air that there was overspray 2 blocks away.