I am going to hold off any spray painting until warmer weather, then do it outside when wind is calm. I have only 2 or 3 small jobs to paint. However if i ever broaden into more extensive painting, it is good to know what precautions I should take. Thanks.
If you are referring to suggestions to use a hardened paint, and of course having to buy professional spray equipment, I understand.
I can't say I disagree with you, but no matter what subject you talk about someone will say its too expensive, while another will say its cheap.
Harbor Freight small gun can be bought for $10 or even less with coupon. And while I don't have such a gun, I have read many reviews that claim they are pretty good. A pint of paint around maybe $15 to $20 dollars or even less if you go the Rust-Oleum or even store brand paints. Most people know of a friend or family member with a compressor with hoses. Hardener IDK the true cost off the top of my head. But you would use very little and left overs for the next project. So it really all depends on the individual if it cost too much or worth the deal. But that is how most people determined buying most anything. Owning a boat is a hobby, for the most part. You just have to figure in if it is worth it... Certainly not trying to talk or debate anyone about this, only offering a point of view.
I can totally appreciate that...
Seem YOU have now learned that if you want a very nice finish, you have to do the prep work to get that finish. The final top coat color is the easiest part. The prep is where all the work happens. If you can see it or feel it, it will show up in the final finish. Paint does not cover over any flaws and makes them go away. I've been there and sadly learned that lesson way way long ago. But once you understand that, you can work and rework the prep until it looks perfect. Then paint and if you want it to pop, clear coat and buff and polish the clear coat. Amazing to see how buffing and polishing makes an acceptable finish a show piece.
If i am painting an aluminum prop using either zinc phosphate bbn or Rustoleum self-etching primer do i need to sand down the entire prop to bare aluminum? There are some areas where the original paint is well adhered and almost impossible to sand off with SiC paper. I am trying to feather-out areas between bare aluminum and original paint.
I'll second that about prep work. If you have original paint you won't need to etch prime that. The bare spots will need it, though.
So to avoid leaving humps i will remove all original paint. Do you use paint stripper (like methylene chloride or newer less toxic formulas) or something different as a paint remover?
