Outboard Painting

ct1762@gmail.com

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I tried searching for this topic as i'm sure it's been beaten to death, but couldn't find much. I'm thinking of using a paint brush or 2 instead of the spray paint i've been using all these years to restore OMC motors. Can anyone recommend a good paint? should it be enamel i'm looking for, or regular topside enamel? Seen some of these motors with interlux or whatever it is and they look absolutely beautiful!
 

Shawnfish80

Seaman
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Oct 30, 2020
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Use a 2 in 1 enamel with hardener...and theres no way a paintbrush job will even come close to a sprayer/ spray can in terms of finish...imo only a fool would use a brush...js
 

JimS123

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You can use a brush if you like. If your intention is to protect the metal, but don't care if it looks like crap, then go for it. Your problem, though, is keeping the paint on if you intend to put the engine on a boat and use it in the water.

Even if you simply intend to display a motor on a deluxe stand in your living room (I know a outboard motor nut that does just that) the key to a good job is the prime coat. Good luck finding a zinc chromate primer in a paint can.

Tell us your motive. Are you looking for prettier, cheaper or longer lasting.

Look at my signature line. Been there, done that. I have classics and true antiques on display, and I also have classics on classic boats that get run hard on the river. Regardless of the intent, they all get the same paint job, and some have been in service for many years.
 

Shawnfish80

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Definiteley go with the zinc chromate on bare metal but remember you have to use a primer sealer over that or your paint will not stay on the motor very long before it starts to chip and flake off...been there and done that.
 

gm280

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My recipe is, bare metal, Zinc Chromate, 2K primer, sand between the primer coats, top color coat with PPG automotive paint, then PPG 2K clear top coat, then polish for results.
Painted -  (91).JPG
 

JimS123

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My recipe is, bare metal, Zinc Chromate, 2K primer, sand between the primer coats, top color coat with PPG automotive paint, then PPG 2K clear top coat, then polish for results.
View attachment 330486
Beautiful job. I like the design - a one-of-a-kind. (I like your workshop too)

Surely, a professional spray gun and hardened paint is the best way to go. But not everyone has the ability to do that. I find that a good enamel holds up pretty well.

Mine are all kept original - paint and decals. Also, I don't use clear coat, since they didn't come that way. North York Marine in Ontario supplies authentic colors and decals. He supplies both rattle cans and pints / hardener. Another good source is Reprotint, if you want original.

PC252761cropped.jpg
P4022907web.jpg
 

tpenfield

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I went all-out on this restoration and used the expensive $6 rattle cans instead of the $2 brands.
img_9535-jpg.248319


I have done mostly touch-up with brush application instead of a spray. Usually you want to thin the paint slightly to reduce brush lines. Rustoleum have been my go-to paint, but I have used some Interlux 2-part paints on my Mercruiser outdrives.

Since outboards, particular small ones, get banged up a bit, I try not to over invest in the painting process.
 

gm280

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I went all-out on this restoration and used the expensive $6 rattle cans instead of the $2 brands.
img_9535-jpg.248319


I have done mostly touch-up with brush application instead of a spray. Usually you want to thin the paint slightly to reduce brush lines. Rustoleum have been my go-to paint, but I have used some Interlux 2-part paints on my Mercruiser outdrives.

Since outboards, particular small ones, get banged up a bit, I try not to over invest in the painting process.
Nice finish there, did you mix in any catalyst with the paint?
 

JimS123

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The 'rude in post #6 was painted with North York acrylic enamel rattle can paint. It currently costs $22.50 (CDN). The US counterpart is about 20 bucks these days. It was painted about 15 years ago and hasn't needed to be touched up yet. Of course, it has only been run in the water maybe 30 or 40 times.

I often use Rustoleum when I need black or white. It's a very good product.
 

cprodave

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Is the Rustoleum Self-etching Aluminum paint (in a rattle can) a good substitute for Zinc Chromate (various brands in rattle cans). I don't live near any store that sells Zinc Chromate and Shipping Cost from online suppliers costs as much or more than the paint itself.
I will be using a heat box to repaint an aluminum prop and cylinder head for a 1990 Evinrude, also touching up gearcase on a couple other motors when weather warms up this Spring/Summer. I have used Zinc Chromate rattle can before with good results on my 2001 90Hp Johnson OceanPro. Darn can lost pressure before it was half used up sitting around a couple years admittedly.
 

JimS123

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Is the Rustoleum Self-etching Aluminum paint (in a rattle can) a good substitute for Zinc Chromate (various brands in rattle cans).
Its a substitute. Whether its good or not is subject to debate.

I find it to be "acceptable", but its durability isn't as good. You get what you pay for.

OTOH, the zinc is highly toxic, so if you do use it be careful and wear proper PPE.
 

cprodave

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Its a substitute. Whether its good or not is subject to debate.

I find it to be "acceptable", but its durability isn't as good. You get what you pay for.

OTOH, the zinc is highly toxic, so if you do use it be careful and wear proper PPE.
Thanks Jim. I value your opinion and the opinion of anybody else who has actually used the substitute product. I will hold out and buy the Zinc Chromate product next time i am already driving the hour or so in direction of a marine store that sells Zinc Chromate spray.
 

gm280

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I find it really amazing that everyone has been told how dangerous ZINC is and then they advertise on commercials 27/7 during the cold and flu season with their ZINC cough syrups and throat lozenges. The zinc infused items are everywhere... Okay...IDK
 

JimS123

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I find it really amazing that everyone has been told how dangerous ZINC is and then they advertise on commercials 27/7 during the cold and flu season with their ZINC cough syrups and throat lozenges. The zinc infused items are everywhere... Okay...IDK
Zinc as a mineral is beneficial to the human body. Just like the mineral Sodium. The problem occurs when the mineral is chemically combined with other elements and the new compound is toxic or harmful. It's the chromate and chloride versions that we need to be aware of.
 

gm280

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Zinc as a mineral is beneficial to the human body. Just like the mineral Sodium. The problem occurs when the mineral is chemically combined with other elements and the new compound is toxic or harmful. It's the chromate and chloride versions that we need to be aware of.
I totally understand. BUT, that is true of most any rattle can paint...or any paint for that matter. Zinc Chromate isn't any worst or better then any spray paint or primer. I mean deadly chemicals exist in all paints. No one is better then another since any of them can kill you in the wrong circumstances. If you forego the proper PPE, it all is deadly to you. JMHO
 

JimS123

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I totally understand. BUT, that is true of most any rattle can paint...or any paint for that matter. Zinc Chromate isn't any worst or better then any spray paint or primer. I mean deadly chemicals exist in all paints. No one is better then another since any of them can kill you in the wrong circumstances. If you forego the proper PPE, it all is deadly to you. JMHO
There are differences among different products. The degree of harmfulness varies.

Rattle can paint is harmful. It can cause skin or lung irritation, etc. However, it is not an acute toxin.

Chromate is a known carcinogen. In some localities it is not even allowed to be sold.
 

dingbat

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I've had acute zinc poisoning three times in my life.

The first time I didn't know what was happening......cold chills when it's 90+ degrees outside. Emergency room the second time, hospitalized (not my choice) overnight the third time

Back in the day..........cutting a municipal water tower into "sheets" for removal and replacement. Took 8-9 hours of intense, direct inhalation of burning zinc chromate paint each day to induce.

Not a pleasurable experience by any stretch, but none the less for wear.
If you don't wear a respirator, make sure you spray downwind and go for it.

Chrome comes in multiple forms. Trivalent Chromium is a trace mineral Hexavalent Chromium is a carcinogen
 

cprodave

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Thanks for this discussion/reminder about toxicity. Before i retired i managed a project to eliminate toxic substances in electronics PC'S (RoHS vs. Non-RoHS). I remember hexavalent chromium was one of the materials we had to phase out. It was The Project From Hell. But we got it done.

I will wait until warmer weather when i can paint outside.
 

gm280

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If you really want to paint now and be totally safe, get a 3M 7000 respirator with VOC filters and a Tyvek full suit and have at it. Neither are expensive and readily available for not much money. And since you can reuse them, you are set for future projects as well. Just a suggestion.
 
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