Outboard mounting bolts over tightened at factory, or soft transom?

[sutor623]

Reality check, your boat is 20 yrs. old. Over the next 5 yrs. you'll see more and more degradation.

I suspect your boat has more water intrusion problems that you know or care to admit (denial). If you'll look back at the pics you took when you first got your boat you'll see quite a bit of black mildew in it, that's not a good sign.

You can't truthfully say that your deck and stringers are solid and your foam is dry until you lift the decking and check everything out. There may not be much rot in there right now, but I'd be money there is plenty of wet stuff under your deck that is the same ticking time bomb that you have on your transom. All of this stuff is typical for a 20 yr. old fiberglass boat that hasn't been kept garaged or covered when not in use.

IMO, Seacast isn't worth the money unless you plan to keep the boat for a very long time.

If you don't like doing fiberglass work, you should own a brand new fiberglass boat or an aluminum boat. Older fiberglass boats are nothing but a bunch of work and money until you tear them apart and put them back together with new and dry material.

Actually, I can see/inspect the stringers in many spots due to all of the compartments of this boat. They are solid. There are numerous spots where you can see directly under the deck also. The manufacturer did do a great job at glassing in the deck. Foam is also dry. I cut out part of the stringer to get my other pedestal base mounted the proper way and it is very dry under there. Foam looks great. You can also see the foam in the rear of the boat when you take the side compartments out. And actually, this boat was kept under a covered carport for most of its life. The past 5 years it just was setting under a covered carport and I saw it each time I visited my old buddy. The water that got in more than likely came from the lake that this boat went crusin' on.

I guess I will think a little harder about this. At this point Im not too worried about the structure so I may just wait until the off-season. The only issue with that is it SUCKS not being able to do glass work etc. because of the cold.

 

[Woodonglass]

I agree with YD, Based on what you are telling us about your inspections in other areas of the boat and her history of being stored in a covered environment etc. I'd have to agree with your assessment and YD's that you should be good to go for the season as long as you continue to monitor the situation. I'd prolly try to use a heat gun to dry those holes out one day and then coat them with some 5 minute epoxy to keep any more water from penetrating in there and see what happens. As long as you continue to maintain her well and keep her covered when not in use I can't see a problem. Your Light colored Dry core samples say a LOT!!! Well maintained and cared for Fiberglass Boats can last a LONG time Mine is 64 years old and still has her original transom, deck and stringers!!!!

 

[sutor623]

Thanks Wood I appreciate your follow-up. I mounted the seat pedestal on the passenger side by going through the stringer in the fuel hatch so I could get wood, nuts and bolts under the pedestal and it is SOLID!! Thanks for all your help in my brainstorming in my other thread.

 

[jigngrub]

Actually, I can see/inspect the stringers in many spots due to all of the compartments of this boat. They are solid. There are numerous spots where you can see directly under the deck also. The manufacturer did do a great job at glassing in the deck. Foam is also dry. I cut out part of the stringer to get my other pedestal base mounted the proper way and it is very dry under there. Foam looks great. You can also see the foam in the rear of the boat when you take the side compartments out. And actually, this boat was kept under a covered carport for most of its life. The past 5 years it just was setting under a covered carport and I saw it each time I visited my old buddy. The water that got in more than likely came from the lake that this boat went crusin' on.

I guess I will think a little harder about this. At this point Im not too worried about the structure so I may just wait until the off-season. The only issue with that is it SUCKS not being able to do glass work etc. because of the cold.

I'm not trying to bad-mouth your boat Pete.

Your boat does have issues that will need to be addressed sooner or later, and there will be even more issues later... that's just part of owning an older f'glass boat.

You can do f'glass work in the colder months, but you'll need additional tools and materials. You can tarp your boat and use a portable heater to raise the inside temps so you can work with epoxy resin. You'll also need to use the 4:1 fast hardener formula epoxy resin, it has a working temp down to 45*F. There's more than one way to glass a boat.

 

[sutor623]

I'm not trying to bad-mouth your boat Pete.

Your boat does have issues that will need to be addressed sooner or later, and there will be even more issues later... that's just part of owning an older f'glass boat.

You can do f'glass work in the colder months, but you'll need additional tools and materials. You can tarp your boat and use a portable heater to raise the inside temps so you can work with epoxy resin. You'll also need to use the 4:1 fast hardener formula epoxy resin, it has a working temp down to 45*F. There's more than one way to glass a boat.

Its cool man, its just a boat. I was just laying out the history. Fact is its still useable, and I know eventually it will need to be addressed. In the past Id be grinding that old transom out right now, but with the little one around it surely cuts into my play time. I think Im just going to keep fishing this season and re-evaluate the situation this winter. I dont fish from mid-december through early march so I will have three (cold) months to work on it. Maybe I will start to clear out moms garage in anticipation for the winter project

 

[Yacht Dr.]

I dont think your gonna have to worry about the transom any time soon. Its not like wood rots over a season. IMO the ply just compressed a bit due to the wells' thickness of the glass right there. Keep an eye on them transom/well corners..when they start to crack your stuff is flexing too much. Even then its not a sure fire sign that you have a failed back end.

You could dry out them drain holes..or just put them back in with some 5200. Probably never gonna get them out in one piece again..but their cheap anyhow.

OH..and you're probably only gonna need a few heat lamps for a couple hours for the type of glassin you'll be doin

 

[sutor623]

I dont think your gonna have to worry about the transom any time soon. Its not like wood rots over a season. IMO the ply just compressed a bit due to the wells' thickness of the glass right there. Keep an eye on them transom/well corners..when they start to crack your stuff is flexing too much. Even then its not a sure fire sign that you have a failed back end.

You could dry out them drain holes..or just put them back in with some 5200. Probably never gonna get them out in one piece again..but their cheap anyhow.

OH..and you're probably only gonna need a few heat lamps for a couple hours for the type of glassin you'll be doin

Thanks Dr! Yea I am letting the scupper holes dry out good. One dried out well and feels nice and solid. The other one will dry out through the day and feel a little
Moist the next morning. I think the residual moisture in there is slowly working itself out. I'll probably keep it open for a week or so, supposed to stay good and hot this week.

 

[Woodonglass]

Use a syringe or eye dropper and put some anti freeze in the one wet hole. It will help "Wick out" the moisture when it evaporates. It really works well to aide drying out wet wood and help prevent future rot.

http://www.simplicityboats.com/chemorot.html

 

[sutor623]

Use a syringe or eye dropper and put some anti freeze in the one wet hole. It will help "Wick out" the moisture when it evaporates. It really works well to aide drying out wet wood and help prevent future rot.

http://www.simplicityboats.com/chemorot.html

Wow thanks for the tip!!

 

[sutor623]

Wood, should keep doing the antifreeze until the core is dry?

 

[Woodonglass]

2-3 applications with a few days drying time between each one should do the trick for that one wet hole. Then mix up some 5 minute epoxy and coat both of em then coat the bolts with the 3M 4200 and go boating and have fun!!!!

 

[sutor623]

Thanks Wood, I have given it a few days and wood is nice and dry and HARD. Woo Hoo!!

 

[Woodonglass]

That's FANTASTIC!!!! :clap2:

Now coat it all with some epoxy and then use some 4200 on the bolts and go have some fun on the WATER!!!!!

 

[sutor623]

Thanks!!! I guess some water just got behind those scuppers. I think I'll replace them with brass

 

[jigngrub]

should keep doing the antifreeze until the core is dry?

Antifreeze won't pull water out or dry your transom, some people try to use it as a rot preventive... but if your transom core is already saturated (like in your pics) the amount of antifreeze that will be absorbed will be an exercise in futility. A piece of saturated wood will only absorb so much fluid, after that it just runs off. The only thing you might accomplish by using antifreeze on your transom is poisoning the family cat or dog if they get in there and drink it, antifreeze has a sweet taste to pets... but it's deadly poison.

 

[sutor623]

Well all the accessible wood dried up really well so I'm not complaining. I've gottwn some good advice from you in he past Jig, but Wood is def. the site guru on glassers IMO. Either way ima let her fly as long as I can on his transom until I see some solid reasons not to.