Re: Outboard bogging down under load
Sorry been busy, I can take the carbs off and clean with gumout or a good carb cleaner. I judge them buy how bad they burn my hands I do recommend wearing gloves but get the good stuff. Use the red straw and blow them through the jets or any holes you can find. I don't have any diagrams. but I found that it is easier to pull the end of the throttle and shift cable than trying to mess with the clip that hold them to the air silencer cover. Get a ball end allen wrench and some metric wrenches of course. start by removing the top carb them work your way down. I leave the fuel lines hooked up but if its your first time there may be junk blocking one of the lines Mine has a tree with three outlets the elbow end on the bottom was blocked. I had little screens about the size of pencil eracers stuck on the brass inlet tube. I take it from other responces that this is not normal but if you have them that where the majority of the scale will be. pump the bulb to flush the lines out. keep pumping the bulb til the gas comes out clean. I replaced the primer bulb line (mine doesn't have the little plug thing on the motor it runs straight to the fuel pump) but check everything. I used the old hot rodder type fuel filter with the little plastic screens that can be replaced. they are easier to see through. I bet you will have to do it twice. the first time it will take you an hour or two the secound time it will take about half that. Mine had rubber gaskets and I wasn't sure if it would work so I didn't change the gaskets the first time. I figued I would have to take it to a mechanic. I have done this on a v4 85 horse now also. I'm getting pretty good at it. Just take som pictures of it as you go so you can remember how they go back together. I didn't have anything but screws to worry about loosing. I know this is getting long but do it on the engine you can turn the carbs over enough to get to the bowl screws. the linkage poped on and off just be gentle and pay attention. and remember we are here to help!
Sorry been busy, I can take the carbs off and clean with gumout or a good carb cleaner. I judge them buy how bad they burn my hands I do recommend wearing gloves but get the good stuff. Use the red straw and blow them through the jets or any holes you can find. I don't have any diagrams. but I found that it is easier to pull the end of the throttle and shift cable than trying to mess with the clip that hold them to the air silencer cover. Get a ball end allen wrench and some metric wrenches of course. start by removing the top carb them work your way down. I leave the fuel lines hooked up but if its your first time there may be junk blocking one of the lines Mine has a tree with three outlets the elbow end on the bottom was blocked. I had little screens about the size of pencil eracers stuck on the brass inlet tube. I take it from other responces that this is not normal but if you have them that where the majority of the scale will be. pump the bulb to flush the lines out. keep pumping the bulb til the gas comes out clean. I replaced the primer bulb line (mine doesn't have the little plug thing on the motor it runs straight to the fuel pump) but check everything. I used the old hot rodder type fuel filter with the little plastic screens that can be replaced. they are easier to see through. I bet you will have to do it twice. the first time it will take you an hour or two the secound time it will take about half that. Mine had rubber gaskets and I wasn't sure if it would work so I didn't change the gaskets the first time. I figued I would have to take it to a mechanic. I have done this on a v4 85 horse now also. I'm getting pretty good at it. Just take som pictures of it as you go so you can remember how they go back together. I didn't have anything but screws to worry about loosing. I know this is getting long but do it on the engine you can turn the carbs over enough to get to the bowl screws. the linkage poped on and off just be gentle and pay attention. and remember we are here to help!