One Stringer or Engine Block is slightly compromised Question

1985 Century Mustang

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I just noticed that a stringer/engine block seems to be compromised/rotted halfway about 8 inches or so in from the transom towards the bow in the engine cavity. Question - I pulled as much rotted decayed wood out and Is there a way I can fill the rotted cavity inside the stringer housing and possibly use dowels and resin etc for support to get me thru the summer. The Fiberglass covering the stringer engine block is very tight and it apparently held up fine last year in which I didn't know it was compromised., I was just wondering if I could drill a hole/ or several holes thru the glass into the stringer cavity and fill it with some type of resin, wood fill etc and or dowel it. Then glass over the dowels to give it support for this summer. I trailer the boat and use it 3 times a week tops.

Your thoughts.
 
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1985 Century Mustang

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Is the stringer engine block cavity that's holding the wood a sealed cavity unto itself or will a resin or fill escape from it if I decide to do a Mcgiver job.
 
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Scott Danforth

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are you talking about the motor mounting blocks next to the stringers? those always need replacing when the transom gets replaced.

you will find rot in both sides.
 

1985 Century Mustang

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Apparently I have been using the boat for two years unknowing of this. That's why I want to know if I can temporarily fill the cavity this year, and rebuild the stringer next year.
 

1985 Century Mustang

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are you talking about the motor mounting blocks next to the stringers? those always need replacing when the transom gets replaced.

you will find rot in both sides.

Yes, I thought they were stringers. Thanks for enlightening me. Can I fill one side with resin etc for now to support it. The other side is solid.
 

Chris1956

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Gee, you have the engine out now. This is the time to make all repairs, or you will be too lazy over the winter to pull the engine again, no?
 

1985 Century Mustang

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Gee, you have the engine out now. This is the time to make all repairs, or you will be too lazy over the winter to pull the engine again, no?

I can pull it next year it's very easy of a job, because I had pulled the engine out 2 times already, it takes literally 30 minutes for me now.

I really don't want to put anymore energy into this. Just want to know if I can support the cavity is all. That's my question and main concern for now. Fill it with resin etc, and next year do it the right way. I want to get out in the water already, I'm losing my effing mind. My patience is growing thin with this boat. šŸ˜”
 
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alldodge

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I don't know of anything that can be injected and be rigid enough to support the weight and torque from the motor. Wear your life jackets
 

Pmt133

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Just think... you'll only end up in the asylum once if you do it now.
 

stresspoint

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there is i believe a stuff that people use on transoms , its a pourable solution that is like a space invader that strengthens the rotted section .
may be worth some investigation .

however if it has been used like this and you did not notice , the best option there is just run it as is , no point in doing a botch up job that will probably compromise an already compromised rotted area.
 

Scott Danforth

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CPES doesn't work. Been discussed adnauseum
 

stresspoint

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CPES doesn't work. Been discussed adnauseum
yea , i kind of figured it was a fur coat on a pig deal, some of the idiots on the THT forum swore it was the best thing since sliced bread (must have been sponsored :)), but i doubt anything that was a bandaid from a tube fix would work on where the OP has issues.
 
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