Old fiberglass diagnosis

[Wildey]

Hi folks. This is a 1971 glass boat. Can you tell from the pictures what is going on ?
Is it sun burned gelcoat ? Superficial ? Or totally degraded layup ?
Being a dark color, can it get that hot from the sun ?
I can understand heat from the motor, but the insulation was largely in place.
Can get better pics tomorrow if needed.
Thanks for your diagnosis.

 

[Grub54891]

Looks like some of the areas are patched from another time. Being that old it may be from poor maintenance of the surfaces from years ago. Also being that old it may or will have rot in the inside body of the rig. Stringers and transom are the big issue. Most boats have a 15 year life from the mfg.

 

[Wildey]

Thanks Grub.
I'll drill the transom, and check the stringers. The center of the floor is gone but the transom looks good from inside and out. I've read here that fiberglass has a lifespan of 50 years. I really like the size and style of this hull and would like to tackle it but first need to know of the basic integrity of the hull layup itself. What is the best way to determine that ? I can resurface it, just need to know that the integrity is there.
Thanks again

 

[Grub54891]

This glass lasts for many years, it’s the wood beneath the glass that rots away. Looking good don’t mean a thing. Drill test holes from the inside and see if the shavings are dark, mushy, wet or dry and clean.

 

[Wildey]

Hi Grub. I've been studying many topics here regarding the wood and procedures to repair/replace transoms and stringers. I am mainly concerned with a proper evaluation of the hull itself. The integrity of the layup excluding the gelcoat. The woodwork is doable ONLY if the actual basic hull is structurally sound.That is what I'd like to determine before considering going further.
Thanks again !

 

[Lectro88]

You are looking a at a 50 yr old boat.
I don’t claim to be an expert.
But my experience. And I have 2 going on right now that are mine.
A 1969 and a 1978.
Both are total replacement restorations.
ALL the wood was shot.
These things sit out in the weather. Most times. And neglected to boot.
If that transom isn’t rotten. I’d be greatly surprised.
But if you love it spend the 5k-20k repairing it.
The sky and your wallet is the limit.
But you will have structure, and fiberglass, gel coat. Upholstery, HARDWARE, s. steel, engine
And I haven’t got started good.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I'm not a fiberglass expert, but the pictures that would concern me the most are #3 and #4. The cracks in the side of the hull don't look like the usual spider cracks you see in gelcoat. I'd wonder if there's saturated foam on the other side that froze and expanded, cracking the fiberglass.

 

[Bondo]

Hi Grub. I've been studying many topics here regarding the wood and procedures to repair/replace transoms and stringers. I am mainly concerned with a proper evaluation of the hull itself. The integrity of the layup excluding the gelcoat. The woodwork is doable ONLY if the actual basic hull is structurally sound.That is what I'd like to determine before considering going further.
Thanks again !

Ayuh,..... As noted, it's the wood that rots, not the fiberglass,.....

I've got that same hull, in much nicer shape, with a 5.7l/ Alpha 1 in it,.....

Those Slickcrafts were a very nice solid laid up hull,....

 

[Wildey]

Thanks to all !
I've exposed some of the wood rot .... as expected.
Also block sanded over some of the blister patches and dug into some of the cracked areas.
Only the gelcoat appears to be affected. No cracks, flaws or flexing in the layup itself. (best I can tell)
What is this motor ? OMC AU 14D ... if I read the tag right.
Its a V6, what HP would it be ?
Just curious, if this becomes a project, the new transom would likely be for an outboard. What would the OB MAX HP rating be for such a craft ?

 

[Wildey]

Well, I found the old motor/drive. It was HU, not AU, sorry.
150HP from 66 ... wow.

OMC Stern Drives 1964-1993 - Model Numbers CU-12M/CUE-12M to XUFM-21A/XUFM-21R - Model Guide: Page 67 of 78

www.marineengine.com

 

[Lectro88]

Like I said earlier.
Unless you are just in Love with this boat.
And it looks like it could be a tri-hull.
Even free… this is going to cost a lot of money to even “start” to be something to put on the water.
Free and cheap boats are neither…cheap or free.
They just take longer to put money into.
And you are looking at years to repair all that.
It’s a tremendous amount of work and it’s nasty itchy need a 2 filter mask because fiberglass in your lungs isn’t good.
It’s bad enough in your skin.
Not trying to tell you or talk you out of it.
But most have a mindset or think this will get me on the water cheap.
Nope.
And you are going to be having to change the rigging most likely.
Converting from I/o to outboard is another whole can of worms.
And you will probably need 150 and you might want to price those.
Cheap motors leave you bobbing in the water, my neighbor can vouch for 2 of those.
And he could have had a nice motor for what he spent chasing ghosts with the shop for the last year and a half and still doesn’t have anything he can take out.

One last thing.
Nobody will give you what you sink into this thing.
It’s a 70’s boat and only you can justify what you want to spend.

 

[Wildey]

I don't doubt you 1 bit, Lectro. Sage advise for sure.
Been there with an old car, truck and tractors. All of which I can use anytime without having to trailer to some water. I bought the boat and trailer as a package deal for $9 with clear titles because I needed the titled trailer.
I like this ol boat, but I ain't married to it. Just curious before I invert it for a shed roof to park my lawn mower under. Thank you very much for your experienced input ... much appreciated

 

[Lectro88]

I have only been on this forum a couple of years, And I still don't claim to be an expert. but I didn't start yday either.
But we almost see 1 of these almost every day of every month.
Guys and some girls start these projects with the best intentions and big dreams..
And a bunch fall by the wayside.
What is called Splashes on here, a boat being launched after a re-build.
they are not as common.

good luck with what you decide to do.
this is in my opinion the most informative boat forum and the guys will help if you jump.
but most will give you fair warning, they been there, done that, seen that

 

[Scott Danforth]

since the floor has rotted out, the stringers and transom are gone (the floor always rots after the transom and stringers

that Obsolete Motor Co (OMC) V6 is obsolete. parts are NLA for that motor, and probably the drive.

the hull has lots of flex cracks. to repair, you must grind all the gell coat off in the area, and down to good fiberglass. then build up the layers of fiberglass and gel to where it needs to be.

to put any drive in there other than the OMG will require a new transom and stringers. so you have a full hull restoration.

the hull will cost you about $2500 worth of lumber, resin, cloth, etc. the motor and drive should be replaced as you can get a good donor for $2k. or you can attempt to restore the old dauntless 225 and the drive for about $5k. the exterior surface gel coat restoration will cost you about $700 in gel and duratec 904

unlike old cars or old trucks which at least have scrap value. many old boats have no value and cost to dispose of.

 

[tpenfield]

This boat is what you call 'end of life' . . . Yes, the gelcoat is dried, cracked, and oxidized. The structure is rotted . . . and the engine is not viable.

The boat is 51 years old and it looks like it has not been taken care of. At some point there are just too many things to deal with and although a restoration may be possible, it becomes impractical. . . . thus end of life.

 

[Wildey]

I am thankful for this forum and the expertise therein. It is by far the best resource I have found. I do have a different, more viable candidate for restoration. I did do some other studying on blisters and osmosis .... quite enlightening. The porosity of gelcoat surprised me.
This one will get parted out. The rigging is in great shape and will go on a center console project. The hull is slated for a novelty project.
Motor and drive will weigh up real good at the scrapper yard, prices are up right now.
Most importantly, I got a very nice trailer w/title for a net price of $8.70 (my $10 was the high bid and there was $1.30 in change by the seat)
Thanks again to you all for your input and advise !
Cheers !