Non-Skid - Economic Options

[Berdink]

I searched, but all the threads were old.
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Anyone see something wrong with this idea?:

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, paint stores sell special fine sand for that purpose. I would expect grits, being organic, will rot away, after some wear by the feet/shoes.

Boat stores will have self-stick anti slip vinyl as well.

 

[Berdink]

Good point on the organic material rotting.

 

[Berdink]

With all the plastic needing recycling, you'd think you should be able to buy a gallon of ground plastic for $5.
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I'll most likely go with Soft Sand and spend $13 for 1/4 pint.

 

[garbageguy]

With all the plastic needing recycling, you'd think you should be able to buy a gallon of ground plastic for $5...
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...

they should pay you to re-use some

similarly, I've got the same thing going on the wood steps to my deck - thinking about a trex-type material - oh boy

 

[FunInDuhSun]

When I epoxy painted my old boats deck many years ago, I simply added some beach sand to the can and mixed it up. Had to stir the can a lot to keep it in suspension, but it worked. Zero cost and it held up just fine.

 

[airshot]

Years back I needed a non skid surface, so I rolled on a good thick coat of paint the sprinkled some sand from my sand blaster onto the paint. Let it dry then rolled another thinner coat on top. Worked great and lasted for years !!

 

[Scott Danforth]

are you looking to paint on, or add to gel?

if painting, most of the non-skid is pumice (ground up lava rock). sand also works

I think I paid $5 for a 3# bucket of non-skid from my fiberglass supply house.

i have used it for the last 10 years on projects from the non skid painted porch to the bottom of the canoe, etc.

if adding to gel, mix up a heavy mix of fumed silica in the gel, roll it on with a heavy roller. let sit for about 15 minutes until it starts to kick, then roll over with a bed liner roller and pull peaks.

 

[Berdink]

Thanks all.
The boat is a 67 18 foot aluminum StarCraft Holiday with a plywood floor

The current structurally sound plywood floor has a good coat of brushed on gelcoat that's kinda slippery if you don't have the correct shoes.
After searching and reading several threads (and YouTube), I'm pretty much decided on sanding the surface and doing spot repairs where needed, and then after sanding the whole floor and using a wax & grease remover, I'd use a textured roller to just add a thin textured layer of gelcoat. I'm leaning away from using any kind of actual sand because I've read that once there's sand, a sander will never get through the sand on the deck/floor. I'm leaning away from paint because the floor is already gelcoat that just needs some repairs, and once I use paint, I'll have to stay with paint or remove it all.
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Anyone see anything wrong with my thinking?

 

[Scott Danforth]

I'm leaning away from using any kind of actual sand because I've read that once there's sand, a sander will never get through the sand on the deck/floor.

Not true. any good sander will go thru any non-skid sand.

 

[Berdink]

Thanks, if I buy a non-skid product rather than use actual sand, correct? My understanding is typical sand is difficult to sand.

 

[Scott Danforth]

24 or 36 grit doesn't care one way or another

 

[Chris1956]

24/36 grit will sand aluminum and to a lesser extent tool steel. It rips the snot out of paint, even is mixed with sand.

 

[Berdink]

Great! Then I think I have a plan. I may even sprinkle some non-skid on top.

Thanks again, all.

 

[dingbat]

24/36 grit will sand aluminum and to a lesser extent tool steel.

What type of pads are you using?

I use Norton Zirconia Alumina 36 grit pads to cut stainless and carbon steel alloys. Use worn pads for finishing work.

Use 80 and 120 for aluminum cut, worn pads and oil to finish.

 

[Berdink]

From another thread:
"use shark grip instead. it's plastic particles that you mix into paint."
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Like I said above, plastic grounds should practically be free like real sand.
Grind it up and put it in 20 pound bags and sell it at Home Depot as a non skid additive for $5 a bag.

 

[Berdink]

Checking things out, the current gelcoat is looking old and peeled away from the plywood floor with not much effort.

If I was to scuff it up what's there and put a coat of paint over it all to tide me over, would there be an issue with using Rust-Oleum Oil-Based on the currently exposed plywood?
What I mean is, would the Oil-Based paint on the plywood be an issue down the road even I sand it all down? Would the Oil-Based paint leave a residue of oil on the plywood that would compromise future gelcoat adhesion.
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I'm leaning towards just using water based paint for now, but I know oil base would hold up better.
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I don't want to dig into it too much this year, and besides, the floor feels solid.
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Another thought is just polyester resin or gelcoat spot repair to tide me over a year or two.
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I just don't want to start a direction that's going to create a bigger problem later.

 

[Chris1956]

Water based (latex) paint will peel off in large pieces, if you use it on your deck. It won't take too long, likely 1/2 a season. If you don't want to spend too much $, get some marine enamel paint from the Home Despot. It will give a few years at least.

 

[Berdink]

Sorry for my indecisiveness.
Never have worked with paints or the like much.
I just nailed boards together for a living.