No Spark

[Allensr6]

Spark is no longer the issue. I'm getting good spark for sure. Nice blue spark is good now. Yea I've used the choke by pushing the key in. I've Reyes pushing the bulb while turning the motor over. After doing this I pulled the plugs too see if I fouled them flooded. The plugs are completely dry. New plugs also.

 

[Fed]

Is the choke working, if you turn the key to the RUN position then push it IN you should hear the primer solenoid valve CLICK.

If it passes the CLICK test then I'd remove one of it's little hoses to see if there is any fuel coming out while cranking the motor and holding the key in. (Be careful the little fuel barbs break easily.)

Is there fuel in the tank? This is not making a lot of sense.

 

[Allensr6]

What's not making sense? I've stated several times that I missed diagnosed and spark is no longer the issue. I've got a full tank of gas. Back too the fuel issue and fuel issue alone. The primer solenoid. If I turn the red dial too the manual open as you said why do I need too keep trying too crank the motor with the key pushed in. Keep in mind I'm not a boat motor mechanic I'm doing the best I can too explain exactly what I'm doing and I'm doing exactly what you tell me too. Thanks. Also I will remove one of those small hoses today and see if fuel comes out while cranking. I did remove one of those small hoses yesterday and while pumping the bulb fuel was coming out of that tells you anything.

 

[gm280]

Allen, re-read all the comments concerning your problem. I have something you can try to see if things are spark related and/or fuel related pretty assuredly. Mix up some 50:1 fuel mixture and use a little squirt bottle and squirt some fuel into the carb(s) opening. Then crank and see if it hits and runs for a few seconds. If so, then you do have a fuel delivery issue. If not, then you still have a spark problem as well. And if it hits and runs at all, you really need to rebuild or replace the fuel pump... I would say install carb kits (which really couldn't hurt), but the odds of both carbs stopping up at the exact same time is really remote. Not saying that can't happen, but more iffy then he fuel pump... JMHO!

 

[Allensr6]

I'm sorry I made the no spark issue confusing. That's what I thought it was by checking the wires with a screwdriver old school style like a car. Well somebody on here told me that doesn't work well on a boat motor and told me a different way too check it so I did that and there was spark on both plugs. I pulled the plugs held the close too the block, turned the motor over and they sparked like I was told they should. 7/16 of blue spark. So I noticed yesterday after trying too crank the motor I repulsed the plugs several times after trying too crank the plugs was totally dry. It did run once for about a minute and the just quit and wouldn't run again. So I pulled off one of the small gas lines and squeezed the bulb and gas did come out. But I have not tried cranking with that gas line off. Will do that today. Carbs was rebuilt last year. I hope this helps I'm trying too be a thorough in explaining as I can and I am appreciating the help. Thanks.

 

[Allensr6]

Ok my exact procedure today. Went out pumped the bulb and cranked the motor and it ran for approx 30 seconds and quit. Pumped the bulb again it cranked again and it ran i tried pumping the bulb too keep it running but it quit after a few seconds. Now it just turns over. Won't run.

 

[Fed]

Have a read here Allen.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...hnson-evinrude-cold-start-procedures?t=225510

And here
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ions-faq/162217-outboard-won-t-start?t=158071

From everything you've said I have to ask, are you bumping the key when the motor begins to stumble, this is normal.
Is your starter motor & battery cranking it over at a fast pace, they need to spin fast to develop a good spark.
(It may be spinning fast enough for the first couple of starts but slowing down as the battery loses its edge)

There's no reason to push the key in if the primer solenoid is in manual.
I didn't tell you to put it in manual I was only trying to explain how it works.

 

[gm280]

Ok my exact procedure today. Went out pumped the bulb and cranked the motor and it ran for approx 30 seconds and quit. Pumped the bulb again it cranked again and it ran i tried pumping the bulb too keep it running but it quit after a few seconds. Now it just turns over. Won't run.

Allenen, until you remove the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb and crank it over to see if the pump is delivery a quality flow, you are not going to nail this down. I still think you have a fuel delivery issue... And that's my final answer... :smile:

 

[Allensr6]

Lol ok was waiting on my son too get home gonna try that now.

 

[Allensr6]

Ok took gas line off too carburetor and turned motor over and had a constant stream about as big as a regular pencil. But when I push the key in I'm hearing no click on the primer solenoid. But I'm assuming the primer solenoid is not an issue right now. Have a full battery battery I keep a battery tender on it at all times.

 

[Fed]

The key needs to be in the 'RUN' position to get a CLICK (Edit When you push it in).

Other than that if you have no click then you need to find out why because it will be very hard to start & keep running without the primer solenoid working.

 

[Allensr6]

Ok so the primer solenoid does affect the motor running? And starting even if in the manual position?

 

[Allensr6]

Ok fed I read both those links you sent. I have too as this. Why when the boat sits overnight and when I get home in the afternoon I try too crank it and it runs for the first try approx 30 seconds and quits. Then after a few try's it won't run again until it sits all night and I try it the next day and it's that same thing again? It does have built in tank that sits quit a bit higher than the motor.

 

[Fed]

Ok so the primer solenoid does affect the motor running?

Yes, when activated it allows fuel to go straight into the motor by-passing the carburetors completely.

And starting even if in the manual position?

Putting the red lever in the manual position is the same as pushing and holding the key in.

The manual position is there for rope starting a cold motor if your battery has failed.

 

[Allensr6]

Ok cleaned the terminal ends too it now it's clicking but still just cranking and not running.and still completely dry plugs.

 

[Allensr6]

No Title

 

[Allensr6]

I took the plate off I front of the carbs. Under the bottom carb there's a nipple sticking out of the block with a small hose hooked too it. But can find no where where the other end hooks up? Is this a vaccum line that hooks too something?

 

[Allensr6]

No Title

 

[Fed]

Is your starter motor & battery cranking it over at a fast pace, they need to spin fast to develop a good spark.
(It may be spinning fast enough for the first couple of starts but slowing down as the battery loses its edge)

Get the battery tested or try it with your car battery.

(I told you this is not making a lot of sense LOL)

 

[Fed]

We posted out of sequence there.
Check your motor at the brp website it may help you see where it goes.
shop.evinrude.com
Drill down to your exact model.

Small line like that will be...
1) A line from the primer solenoid into the engine as we have talked about.
2) A line from the air box into the engine to scavenge fuel from the air box.
3) A line from the fuel pump to the engine which supplies the pulse for the fuel pump to work.

My guess would be 2)