Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

[nedc]

UPDATE- ENGINE REBUILT AND RUNNING (but have one question): Just wanted to updated this post. After much sweating and some cussing and using parts from three different engines, we have ignition! I bought a long block car engine and used the rods and pistons from the boat engine w/ new rings, rod and main bearings. I would have used the crank from the boat engine but ford changed the journal size around 1988-89 and the block I bought had the smaller journals. Couldn't use the head that came with the block I used because it was an 8 plug. But i found a 4 plug head w/ roller cam that worked. Now i have an extra roller cam set up if someone needs one. Making the OMC oil pan mate up to the newer block was a bit of trouble but after modifying the 4 piece pan gasket it seems to work. Have only run the boat on muffs so far but it sounds good. Ready to put it in the water but i have one issue i want to work out first. I first used the water temp sender that was on the block i bought because the one on the OMC block was a different thread diameter. I got no temp reading with that sender, so I hooked the ground wire at the sender to ground and turned on the key- gauge went to the top as it should, so gauge is good. So, I got and adapter and screwed in the temp sender that is original to the boat. Ran it about ten minutes and still no movement of the temp gauge. So, now I need to determine if the boat is really running that cool ( T-stat stuck open?) or is the sender defective. How can I tell? Oh yea, had to use electric fuel pump because no hole for mech. pump. So far, I am happy and I stayed within my $500 budget.

Hi, new guy here w/ some questions about my newly purchased 1987 Bayliner Capri w/ OMC ford 2.3 I/O. I've done quite a bit of searching and downloaded a manual, but didn't find the answers. This boat is a project and hopefully, will not become a nightmare! I really wanted a Bayliner w/ Volvo 4 cylinder as i used to them in cars, but all i looked at were junk. This boat has a solid interior- floors, seats, etc. so i thought it was worth the risk. I'm a pretty good shadetree mechanic. So...the bottom end turns free, but the timing belt was broken and the cam is seized in the head. The oil looks OK, fairly dirty but full and no water.

First question: how do you change the oil on these things? Thru the dipstick? It's a pretty small diameter tube but has a plastic flange like thing with threads which surrounds the top of the tube. It will take a really small diameter tube to get down the dipstick tube. i do have transfer pumps but their tubing is way too big to fit.

I'm going to take the head off and see if it is salvageable. Would like to go roller cam esp. if I end up having to get another head. When I took the VC off, one rocker had been spit out and the corresponding valve was stuck down. I hit it with a rubber mallet and it popped back up- don't know what would cause that- binding in the guide? Anyway, head may be junk. Got to get it off first and check the block for cracks, etc. All freeze plugs are good.

Second question: is there supposed to be a gasket between the riser and the exhaust manifold? Both pieces look good, no cracks.

Thanks for any help you can give. I have a lot to learn, but i'm up for the challenge!

 

[bonzoscott]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

Welcome! Well, since the belt is broke and the cam is seized, looks like you're in pretty deep. I would remove the head and find out why the cam is seized (i.e. water intrusion). Do a thorough inspection and probably send to shop for valve job / recondition. See no reason why it would be junk unless you find major damage. There is much more, but you'll have to get the head / cam / belt working first. May be easier at this point to find a replacement motor. Before you do that, you may want to check for a shot drive. Good luck!
Edit: There are many electric and hand pumps out there to suck oil from dip stick, tubes fit.

http://shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=n3bqrf051f8puse33r3b5vsno1&catalog_id=0&siteid=1

 

[matt167]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

I would not find the cam seized in the head alarming as I have seen it on cars that break the timing belts and then sit for an extended period. It has had to have sat quite a few years. I think you would be safe getting a cam for a Ford Ranger. Has to be for a pre '88 as after '88 the head was a little different... Timing is non interference so you are good there

I would inspect everything ( including the deck/transom/ stringers ) before going further purchasing parts.

 

[nedc]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

"I would inspect everything ( including the deck/transom/ stringers ) before going further purchasing parts. "

Yes, that was part of my criteria before I bought the boat...it's all in good shape. Personally, i would rather deal with mechanical issues than rotten wood which is why I chose this boat over the (running) Volvo powered ones I looked at that had rotten floors/transoms.

Supposedly, the boat only sat a year, which doesn't seem like enough time for the cam to seize. Who knows- when you buy a non-runner it's a crap shoot. Bought plenty of cars in that condition but this is my first boat!

Thanks for the help so far. I hope to have the head off in the next day or two and will report back with my findings.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

Welcome to Iboats.

Hate to be the turd in the punch bowl, but it would have been better if you had gotten one of the boats with the Volvo's that had rotten decks.

Lot's of parts that make the 2.3L a marine engine are now made out of unobtanium, and the Cobra drive isn't too much better. Check it all over good before you start breaking out lots of cash to save that engine. Probably cheaper and easer in the long run to swap in a complete Mercruiser power plant and drive system from a donor boat.

 

[nedc]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

I've read the horror stories, but I've also read some good opinions of the drivetrain. I'm well versed in polishing turds :lol:, so we'll see what I can do with this one. My overall budget is around $1500- that includes the purchase price. I'm not expecting perfection, just a boat I can take out on the lake and not have to paddle back to the dock!

 

[Speak]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

I have same the same boat that had a similar prob and I fixed her up with a used head off an 85 mustang. I replaced a whole wack of things like thermostat, plugs wires, points lower shift cable pumps ect. and what ever looked nasty. The boat runs awesome now and will hit 40mph no prob. It's a good set up and easy to work on in my opinion. Some parts can be hard to find, but with a little time and investigation I always do. I like my set up. Good luck man

 

[nedc]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

Thank you Speak- that's encouraging to hear. Head comes off today.

 

[nedc]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

Ok, head is off. I'm no expert, but nothing jumps out at me as being a big problem other than a couple of valves were sticking. No obvious cracks and the piston tops and bores look good-no obvious steam cleaned look from water intrusion and no ridge at the top of the bore. Pistons look shiny in the pics because i had sprayed WD40 on them. I'll be taking the head to the machine shop next week and will have it checked out and go from there. Cam bearings look bad i think which makes sense since the cam wouldn't turn.

 

[Speak]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

It's weird that the cam seized in there. How hard was it to pull the cam out ? When u install the new head make sure to crank the engine over with the valve cover off to see if oil pumps out off the cam bearings - just a thought. My head was cracked and that was why my cam was tight to rotate and I had water in the engine oil cause of the crack One thing to add is now that the heads off try and suck out as much sand and silt out of the block thru the Cooling jackets. I found lots of silt around #4 cylinder. Thus is caused by the open cooling system.
Stu

 

[nedc]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

I know...it is weird to me too. I will definitely crank the engine over and look for oil going to the cam before buttoning it up. I think I'm gonna go w/ a roller cam setup since I have it apart. How did you suck debris out of the cooling jacket? Shop vac w/ small tube adapter to the hose? Sounds like a good idea.

 

[Speak]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

Dug a lot out with a screw driver and then filled the block with water and used a pneumatic suction tool. Worked mint. Just so you know the roller set up is nice but the regular stuff works just fine too- seems like extra work/expense - like I mention min hits 40mph no prob with the regular set up. I think any faster than that and the boat might feel scary and be at its safety limit. Just a thought about the snapped t belt Maybe it was just worn out and snapped. Are the cam journals scored up? Does the cam move easily with out the rocker arms installed? I can't believe it was seized unless the head is severely warped. If you do go roller rocker let me know how it goes.
Cheers

 

[nedc]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

Thought i would post an update. Had the head magnafluxed and a big crack was evident. Figured the block was probably cracked too, so filled the water jackets w/ acetone and the level dropped overnight. So did this:

Found a good used longblock for $100 complete w/ roller cam. Can't use the head on that one because it is an 8 plug. Found a good 4 plug carbed head. In the process of putting it all together, then we will see what else is wrong w/ this boat!

With the engine out, is there anything I should do to the bilge area other than clean it? Apply a coat of paint/resin/ etc.?

 

[Ivan DeSlayer]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

nedc,

A Google search got me here to your thread. KIND'VE in the same "boat" but I've lost compression in cylinder 2. I've got a 93 ranger powertrain lying on the floor and I'm looking to make use of it. Not sure yet if someone has done it and put one of those 4 plug motors into these boats but the search goes on and you're my inspiration to not toss this thing into the bottom of a lake yet.

 

[nedc]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

I think my block is an 89- has hole for distributor but no hole for mech. fuel pump, so i am going to use a marine electric low pressure fuel pump. If you have a hole for the distributor, you should be good to go. I'm keep updating my progress, although it might be slow.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

2 points about the acetone leak test;

-Acetone evaporates rather quickly.
-Acetone is pretty thin as liquids go (could have made it past the rings into the oil pan).

Don't know what you did with it, but that block may have still been good.

 

[Don S]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

Didn't it strike anybody odd that #4 piston was off center and smaller than the other three?




Disreguard, optical illusion. After looking at the picture today I see it's a reflection :embarassed: :stupid:

 

[nedc]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

Don, that's just the angle of the photo that makes that piston look different. I had mixed feelings about the block, but I'm pretty sure it is cracked- there was water and acetone in the oil pan when I drained it (fresh one week old oil that I had put in after draining it the first time). I took the pistons out and the block is inside- not sure what, if anything I will do with it. All the rod bearings looked real good, as did the pistons, one compression ring was stuck. Gonna put the old block near the 'new' block and make sure everything matches up while I'm assembling.

 

[nedc]

Re: Newbie w/ questions about OMC 2.3

Update this post- see up top. As to the question i asked- I think i need a new temp sender. Where can i find one? it has to be made to work w/ the Bayliner gauge, not necessarily the motor right?