New to Volvo family

[muc]

Yes, that looks like a 15p.
But props can be repitched so how it preforms is what counts.

Also based on my experience working the parts counter for a not so good dealer. As I would go through the process of trying to determine the correct prop. I was surprised to find that many boaters don't know what engine they have. I had one customer that was sure they had a 14' Lund with a 260 MerCruiser! Another that didn't even know what brand boat they had, much less what engine was on it. "it's a red boat with a white engine and I want a prop that will let me go 55 MPH, you know, a speed prop". My way of handling this was to ask them to come back with more info or their old prop. My supervisor was quick to correct me. I was told to "sell these idiots whatever prop we have the most of, if it doesn't fit or work right they can bring it back". So I guess what I'm trying to say is, just because the you bought the boat with a prop on it doesn't mean it's the right prop.

Your engine should be able to reach Full throttle operating range 4600 – 5000 RPM with the boat loaded as you you usually use it and trimmed out to max speed. You should use a scan tool or shop tach because the tach on the dash is usually not correct.

 

[Lou C]

An Evinrude prop on a VP? I know there was a joint venture years ago when the OMC Cobras were the same as Volvo SXs (1994-1998) but I didn't know they are still using the same splines....

 

[Bondo]

An Evinrude prop on a VP? I know there was a joint venture years ago when the OMC Cobras were the same as Volvo SXs (1994-1998) but I didn't know they are still using the same splines....

Ayuh,.... I think you'll find that merc, OMC, 'n Volvo, of that vintage, all have the same prop shaft diameter, 'n spline,.....
A different thrust hub is sometimes necessary,....

 

[tfret]

An Evinrude prop on a VP? I know there was a joint venture years ago when the OMC Cobras were the same as Volvo SXs (1994-1998) but I didn't know they are still using the same splines....

Yeah I thought that was weird too. I need to do a WOT test, but it runs great and we are skiers, not racers, so I prefer more bottom end than top end anyway. But 15 just seemed really low.

 

[tfret]

Does anyone have a trick, or particular product, that works well for blocking the water intakes on the drive while running the engine on the hose?

 

[ESGWheel]

Does anyone have a trick, or particular product, that works well for blocking the water intakes on the drive while running the engine on the hose?

Go back to post number 40 where MUC was highlighting “Volvo's can have 2 different flush systems. one of them can only be used with the engine off!”

This was new to me. So I looked in the manual I have for my 5.0GXi-E and it states for the 5.0GXi-A/B, 5.7Gi-A/B and 5.7GXi-B/C (so not mine):
Caution!
Do not run the engine during the flushing procedure. Water is not supplied to the raw water pump and the pump impeller will be damaged.

It appears that the hose connection taps into the RWP in a couple of different ways, one allowing to run and the other not (T vs Y). My particular engine is not addressed in this section.

I looked around did not find a post listing those VPs that can and cannot run on the freshwater hose.

Maybe MUC can provide the needed general guidance, like if a T do not run but a Y ok….

 

[muc]

Go back to post number 40 where MUC was highlighting “Volvo's can have 2 different flush systems. one of them can only be used with the engine off!”

This was new to me. So I looked in the manual I have for my 5.0GXi-E and it states for the 5.0GXi-A/B, 5.7Gi-A/B and 5.7GXi-B/C (so not mine):
Caution!
Do not run the engine during the flushing procedure. Water is not supplied to the raw water pump and the pump impeller will be damaged.

It appears that the hose connection taps into the RWP in a couple of different ways, one allowing to run and the other not (T vs Y). My particular engine is not addressed in this section.

I looked around did not find a post listing those VPs that can and cannot run on the freshwater hose.

Maybe MUC can provide the needed general guidance, like if a T do not run but a Y ok….

It's easy to determine which one you have.
Follow the hose with the garden connection. It will either T into big hose that supplies water to the sea water pump OR it will T and go to both block drains.
If it goes to the block drains --- you can't run the engine with that flush hose.
If it goes to the sea water pump intake hose --- you can run it. Just don't exceed 1500 RPMs and there's no need to block off the water intakes on the drive.

Also if I remember right the cap for the non running flush was metal and round.
The cap for the running flush was blue plastic, had the international symbol for a running engine on it and had wrench flats. Pro tip --- if you see something on a boat that needs to be tightened and it looks like you could use a wrench --- that means you should use a wrench.
This is why we don't have wingnuts on batteries anymore, people thought it meant they could be finger tight.

 

[ESGWheel]

It's easy to determine which one you have.....

MUC, Thank you!

Can your post be added to Don’s “Must have info” sticky?

Also I included a pic of the blue ok to run cap. I have been buying up all the rubber hoses for my boat and will be replacing 100% of them next year, so I had this new cap in my collection.

 

[ESGWheel]

Sharing the document regarding flushing VP engines I created that is now tucked away into my engine service manual.....

 

[tfret]

Yes I have the flush hose with blue cap and can safely run on it. I used it to warm the engine up before changing the oil.
I have well water where I keep the boat and the land lord gets all uptight about how much water it wastes running the boat. That’s why I was asking if there was a good way to seal off the drive intakes. I may try to tape over them and see if that helps. Thanks

 

[tfret]

I’m still going over this new to me boat learning my way around and getting all the maintenance items squared away. Or at list onto a list to get squared away. The two batteries were just sitting in the back of the boat on trays so I got them both inside battery boxes today to keep them dry. While working on that with the boat in the water, I kept hearing the bilge pump kick on and off. Some snooping around and a see a slow drip of water hitting the bilge right up beside the transom. Is it safe to say this is the Ujoint bellows leaking? I do see some cracking on it and was planning to replace it this fall anyway.

 

[Bondo]

Is it safe to say this is the Ujoint bellows leaking?

Nope, not til verified,.....

 

[Lou C]

That's one of the big issues with I/Os, there are a number of places where they can leak water with the bellows being only one of them.
Bellows
rear steering arm seal
transom seal
Y pipe
Y pipe seal
and corrosion in the transom mount as well as rot in the actual transom
One of my habits is to go over every single hose in the engine compartment before the boat is re-commissioned and make sure the hose clamps are tight. If the ones that are for the raw water intake hose aren't tight, that can make a huge flood of water in your engine compartment as well as overheat the engine.

 

[tfret]

Nope, not til verified,.....

That's one of the big issues with I/Os, there are a number of places where they can leak water with the bellows being only one of them.
Bellows
rear steering arm seal
transom seal
Y pipe
Y pipe seal
and corrosion in the transom mount as well as rot in the actual transom
One of my habits is to go over every single hose in the engine compartment before the boat is re-commissioned and make sure the hose clamps are tight. If the ones that are for the raw water intake hose aren't tight, that can make a huge flood of water in your engine compartment as well as overheat the engine.

This Hurricane is so hard to access back there. I’ll get a good light and stand on my head a bit and see what I can see.

 

[Lou C]

Inspection cameras also help. I feel your pain 22 years of owning & maintaining an I/O. Next boat has to be outboard powered. Expensive but better in a number of ways. Actually if boat companies would make different decisions they wouldn’t be such a nightmare to work on. I changed the rear seating on my Four Winns to make it easier to get at stuff.

 

[tfret]

It’s a Volvo SX-A and I can just barely see the drive shaft sticking through the round flange of the transom plate. The leak is directly below that round drive shaft flange, so it’s not the shaft bellows. I think that would indicate the Y pipe connection? I can barely see it much less get to it. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[tfret]

Ok i figured out my two Faria gauges that aren’t working do have power, ground, and signal. So the gauges are dead. Oil pressure and tach. I’d like to just buy an entire set of new gauges but don’t know if these are analog or VDO. How can I tell?

 

[Lou C]

If the gauges have markings on the back you can call Faria tech support & ask. They also repair gauges.

 

[tfret]

If the gauges have markings on the back you can call Faria tech support & ask. They also repair gauges.

Yes, i did just that. They are standard analog gauges. I plan to just buy a whole new set. Probably Sierra.

 

[tfret]

Just back from a full week vacation on the lake. The boat did great. I noticed low speed steering wanders a lot. Is there a wear item somewhere I need to replace to tighten this up?