New to Volvo family

[Lou C]

While I initially viewed the issue of no-servicable gimble bearings and ujoints with disfavor, then I realized I have had jeeps for years with non serviceable front wheel bearings and u-joints. Over the years, the only thing driveline wise I have had to repair, is the front and rear CV joints on the front driveshaft on my '07 Jeep. Everything else is original at 127,000 miles.
On the '98, same thing, except nothing has needed to be replaced, at 181,000 miles!
So maybe it's not such a bad idea
For I/Os your main focus should be doing the yearly maintenance, it's easy to put off pulling the drive, everyone who's done it knows it can be easy to get off but can fight you getting it back on. I have been doing the yearly drive pull for 15+ years myself, with a drive jack it's easy and I have avoided a lot of repairs and down time doing this myself and the needed repairs that go along with it (bellows replacements, etc).
As far as grease I have been using Lucas Marine grease (blue stuff, calcium sulfonate base) and I feel it is very good. I use it in the gimble, ujoints and trailer wheel bearings. Driveshaft splines get Evinrude Triple Guard as does the prop shaft. Works for me in 100% salt water moorage and use.

 

[dubs283]

You wouldn't want to use 2-4-C in a roller/ ball/ needle bearing, as it's too slippery, which can cause flat spots in the bearing,....
2-4-C is the best bushing type grease,....

When I was a fledgling boat mech my boss put me on drives/running gear because I told him at hire I liked that type of work

After a bit I was the drive guy and I mentioned to him once that using 24c on needle bearing assys in alpha lowers was not recommended by mercury and we should get the needle bearing assy grease that mercury marketed for consumers. His reply was a chuckle and slow head shake

Vaseline works really well for the procedure. More than one use that stuff has...

 

[Lou C]

Same reason why you don't use Evinrude triple guard in roller wheel or gimble bearings....only on splines....

 

[tfret]

While I initially viewed the issue of no-servicable gimble bearings and ujoints with disfavor, then I realized I have had jeeps for years with non serviceable front wheel bearings and u-joints. Over the years, the only thing driveline wise I have had to repair, is the front and rear CV joints on the front driveshaft on my '07 Jeep. Everything else is original at 127,000 miles.
On the '98, same thing, except nothing has needed to be replaced, at 181,000 miles!
So maybe it's not such a bad idea
For I/Os your main focus should be doing the yearly maintenance, it's easy to put off pulling the drive, everyone who's done it knows it can be easy to get off but can fight you getting it back on. I have been doing the yearly drive pull for 15+ years myself, with a drive jack it's easy and I have avoided a lot of repairs and down time doing this myself and the needed repairs that go along with it (bellows replacements, etc).
As far as grease I have been using Lucas Marine grease (blue stuff, calcium sulfonate base) and I feel it is very good. I use it in the gimble, ujoints and trailer wheel bearings. Driveshaft splines get Evinrude Triple Guard as does the prop shaft. Works for me in 100% salt water moorage and use.

So you hand lube the gimbal bearing with the drive off?

 

[tfret]

I noticed a whinny noise when we test drove the boat. My research lead me to do a full overhaul on the fuel pressure pump assembly and fuel pressure regulator. We took her out yesterday and it runs great, but there is still something whinny. With my ear beside the fuel pressure pump I can easily tell that’s not the source. I thought maybe the gimbal bearing? But from my experience those usually make a growling sound. Any idea what it could be?

 

[dubs283]

So you hand lube the gimbal bearing with the drive off?

If you're asking about fair witness of grease actually entering the cavity between the inner and outer races which includes the ball bearings as seen from aft looking forward with the drive removed, yes as you are activating the grease pump mechanism properly attached to the grease zirc in the gimbal housing

I've never performed nor witnessed anyone packing a gimbal bearing as described in this post via a hand/palm method

 

[tfret]

If you're asking about fair witness of grease actually entering the cavity between the inner and outer races which includes the ball bearings as seen from aft looking forward with the drive removed, yes as you are activating the grease pump mechanism properly attached to the grease zirc in the gimbal housing

I've never performed nor witnessed anyone packing a gimbal bearing as described in this post via a hand/palm method

Ah so with the drive off there is a zerc fitting available to lube the gimbal bearing?

 

[Lou C]

So you hand lube the gimbal bearing with the drive off?

If you have the kind with the grease fitting on the side of the transom mount you can even do it with the engine running on the water hose. Or, when the drive is off, turn the gimble by hand while greasing it. That way you can feel if it’s still smooth….

 

[tfret]

If you have the kind with the grease fitting on the side of the transom mount you can even do it with the engine running on the water hose. Or, when the drive is off, turn the gimble by hand while greasing it. That way you can feel if it’s still smooth….

Sadly mine has no such grease fitting.

 

[tfret]

I thought this open hole on the port side of the drive seemed odd. Is there supposed to be something here?

 

[muc]

Ah so with the drive off there is a zerc fitting available to lube the gimbal bearing?

Probably not. You posted the engine product number, not the serial number. So I can't be sure what transom you have.
But from your owners manual ----

Shaft Spline and Bearing Lubrication The primary shaft and bearings must be lubricated each year and whenever the drive unit is removed. This procedure requires the removal of the drive unit; therefore, your Volvo Penta dealer should do it. An ideal time to have this done is during the winterization process or in the spring when preparing to launch for the first time. Failure to have primary shaft splines and bearings lubricated each year may result in damage to the drive unit or seizure in the engine coupler.

----So at this point we can't be sure.

Also noticed that you use the flush hose to run the engine. I sure hope you read the owners manual.

CAUTION! When re-installing the blue cap on the fresh water flush hose, tighten it by hand, then tighten 1/4 turn using a wrench. If the cap is too loose, air may be sucked in, causing the engine to overheat, resulting in damage.

 

[muc]

I thought this open hole on the port side of the drive seemed odd. Is there supposed to be something here?

no

 

[tfret]

3869364

4012219369

 

[muc]

4012219369

Thanks, that makes it so much easier to help.
You have a sealed bearing. The only time I have ever seen one have a problem is if it got wet or the engine alignment was WAY off. Like rotten transom off. It is not greaseable, if it's bad the only option is replacement.
If you think the noise you're trying to track down is coming from the gimbal bearing or drive, just remove the drive, hook up a hose to the flush port and put a cork in the water passage on the pivot housing. Run the engine and listen for the noise.
Or buy a "mechanics stethoscope" and try to tell where the noise is coming from.
When I'm trying to find weird noises, first thing I do is remove the serpentine belt. It's an easy one tool job. Tie strap it out of the way of the crank pully, supply water to the engine and run it for no more then one minute out of 10.

 

[tfret]

Probably not. You posted the engine product number, not the serial number. So I can't be sure what transom you have.
But from your owners manual ----

Shaft Spline and Bearing Lubrication The primary shaft and bearings must be lubricated each year and whenever the drive unit is removed. This procedure requires the removal of the drive unit; therefore, your Volvo Penta dealer should do it. An ideal time to have this done is during the winterization process or in the spring when preparing to launch for the first time. Failure to have primary shaft splines and bearings lubricated each year may result in damage to the drive unit or seizure in the engine coupler.

----So at this point we can't be sure.

Also noticed that you use the flush hose to run the engine. I sure hope you read the owners manual.

CAUTION! When re-installing the blue cap on the fresh water flush hose, tighten it by hand, then tighten 1/4 turn using a wrench. If the cap is too loose, air may be sucked in, causing the engine to overheat, resulting in damage.

Oops I wasn’t sure which number was what. I repost with the SN.

 

[tfret]

Thanks, that makes it so much easier to help.
You have a sealed bearing. The only time I have ever seen one have a problem is if it got wet or the engine alignment was WAY off. Like rotten transom off. It is not greaseable, if it's bad the only option is replacement.
If you think the noise you're trying to track down is coming from the gimbal bearing or drive, just remove the drive, hook up a hose to the flush port and put a cork in the water passage on the pivot housing. Run the engine and listen for the noise.
Or buy a "mechanics stethoscope" and try to tell where the noise is coming from.
When I'm trying to find weird noises, first thing I do is remove the serpentine belt. It's an easy one tool job. Tie strap it out of the way of the crank pully, supply water to the engine and run it for no more then one minute out of 10.

Yes sir my next move was to break out the stethoscope. I bought one years ago to track down a chirping idle roller on a timing belt. Very handy to have.
Good idea about the serpentine belt. I’ll keep that in my hip pocket for later.

 

[Lou C]

The mechanic's stethoscope is a great tool, I have found noisy water pumps, noisy idler pulleys, and noisy alternators with mine. And one more "problem" that really had me guessing....
so about 7 years ago, I did a top end overhaul on my old '88 4.3. Replaced the cyl heads because of overheat damage but corrosion from salt water was also getting to them. At the same time....I replaced the old OMC batwings, with the later model OMC/Volvo 2 piece exhaust. You'll see why this is relevant to noise diagnosis. So it all goes together well, no leaks, etc. Except, a slight thumping/knocking noise that wasn't present before I took the old engine apart. I pulled the drive, still there. Went nuts probing every spot I could get to on the block. And it wasn't constant, intermittent.
Then one day....I was checking something on the port side rear of the engine compartment, and I thought it was coming from the exhaust flapper. Got closer to it and that's where it seemed to be coming from. Got the stethoscope out, and yep that's what it was. Apparently, the newer exhaust and the old exhaust flow water slightly differently and that causes the flapper to make noise when it didn't with the original exhaust. That one kept me guessing for a few months!

Lastly to anyone who is learning to maintain their own I/O power package, what I learned is that they can be reliable for a very long time but they do not tolerate deferred maintenance, at least not here in salt water. I started doing my own drive maintenance about 20 years ago, bought a drive jack to make it easy and here's the benefits:
20 years of salt water moorage and use (about the worst use an I/O can get), and here are the drive repairs:
a few seals, bellows and a gimble bearing back in 2005 (bellows that was on it leaked first year I had it), had mechanic replace leaky trim lines at the same time.
replaced bellows again in 2015, I have found that the Cobra/Volvo SX bellows seem to last about 10 years before small cracks start to form...as long as you can store the boat with the drive down...
no other drive repairs to the current time, only related repair was the trim cylinders. One was leaking but on both, the alu eyelets that the rod passes through were really corroded, and those rods were getting pitted too. So I replaced the pistons/rods with a good used set and new seals. Actually if the end cap comes off it's not a bad job.
So with regular Maintenace, you can make it last a LONG time!

 

[tfret]

Yes im a big believer in preventative maintenance. I never understood people who spend money on something but then neglect it.

 

[tfret]

So I did my outdrive oil change last weekend. The oil was black as tar and stank. I sure was glad to get it changed. In the process I had to pull the prop off and discovered it’s an Evenrude prop. I thought that was peculiar. Does that make sense or has someone changed it at some point?

 

[tfret]

Also, am I reading the prop correctly and this is a 15 pitch prop? That seems way low for a 5.0 engine.