New to this foum,this is my recent purchase, and restore goals.

[Jeffman3]

thank you jbcurt00 ..... A band aid is exactly my intent at this point.

I want to get this boat functional, and safe, and restore it down the road, as we can afford to do it right. (Yes, Intend to do it right down the road a bit as we can.) What I have in the steel would surprise you! This transom isn't "shot"! I want to keep it that way. It isn't new wood, but It is a long way from unsafe! Perhaps my descriptions should be more exact? What would you use for primer and paint?

 

[Old Ironmaker]

I don't know if you have bought the steel yet but I have see guys that actually used aluminum siding to replace a aluminum clad transom. It depends on the depth of the transom. The aluminum from a roll that facia and soffits are cut from and not the garbage they sell at the big box stores. The heavy gauge material you can get at a construction siding supply place. Brake it to width and depth and cut it with left and right snips. That is until you do it right later. If you are going with steel get Rustolium or Tremclad and prime it well. It's just temporary right? Using steel just doesn't sound right. JMO.

Having said that I agree that you should do it right now as jbcurt suggests. You are going to have to tear it all out latter if you don't as you said the engine mounting bolts are working their way into the plywood. That I don't like, you said safety first.

I would recognize that StarCraft hull from a League away.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

That transom board is really a fairly simple replacement so I'm with JB that honestly the effort your putting into bandaiding is roughly the same effort to just replace it right.

 

[Jeffman3]

Thank you guys! I literally have about 10 dollars in materials here. I was told by the owner of our local boat shop/marina that it wasn?t really necessary, Just some small plates under the motor bolt washers would do? but I like to error on the side of caution.

The transom isn?t bad! I just want to make sure it stays that way! There is no play when I put my full 200+ lb force on the motor. It?s solid. I just want to make sure.

The end game is to make it new again! That will be a very long process. I?m shooting for functional this year. Structurally I believe this boat is reasonable solid.

I bought it right, and after we get done with it, it will be super nice!

For now I am doing some preventive things to make sure it holds up, under use, and is safe and functional. I already am planning the restore project with a different floor plan, maybe a double console walk through windshield? Taller consoles, and helm seat, (more comfortable) perhaps move the consoles up a bit and design it so the bimini top hooks up with the windshield?

This is the ?Franken? boat? Think of it as a ?rat rod? if you were to compare it to an automobile.

 

[Jeffman3]

I do plan on a separating element between the steel and the aluminum. (beyond a couple layers of paint!) Maybe a thin plastic, or rubber, barrier. (I work in a rubber compound manufacturing plant) Super thin, but enough to insulate it. I don't want any bi-metal corrosion! The thrust is to preserve what I have, to make it better down the road!

 

[jbcurt00]

I think you'll be surprised at the transom wood's condition when you pull it.

Read thru some other tin boat topics, lots of OK transoms, arent.

But it is your boat to do as you see fit.

Good luck w your project, and make sure everyone wears PFDs

Boat and boat rehab safely.

 

[Jeffman3]

Thank you JB! I truly appreciate your concerns! I may very well be surprised when I do "pull it". That is why I am taking preventative precautions. Thank you again for your concerns.

 

[Jeffman3]

Parts and pieces coming together. Stainless fender washers, bolts, and lock nuts purchased and ready. These to seal up the through-hulls from the live well. I'll use "5200" to seal that all up. Steel bought, primed, and ready to drill. Steering assembly bought, and should be here soon. Researching and how to redo the wiring correctly. It is all messed up! My thought is to pull it all out, and redo it. one item at a time 'till I get it done.

I'm still researching how to set it all up, what gauge wire to use for what, fuse assemblies, negative buss assemblies, etc.

(Resource links would be helpful! I'm not an electrician, and getting it right is really important! I feel out of my comfort zone when it comes to the wiring, I'm still learning the language. Please forgive me if I use and inappropriate term for a part, I am still steep on a learning curve when it comes to the electrical stuff!!!!! )

Work on the boat weekend is coming up! I'll try to take before and after pics on what we work on! ​

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

I look at this one for wire sizing.

 

[Jeffman3]

Getting the steering rod out of the tilt tube is proving to be much, much harder than expected! I have read a bunch of posts about it, recommendations, extreme measures etc.... I got it to move about 3" but it is locked up good and solid now! I went through several blocks of oak beating on the block placed of the end of the shaft. I'd beat on it with a 3 lb. hammer (full house two handed swings!) 'till the block split, and then use the pieces. Yes I'm soaking it with PB Blaster! I'm ready to pull the motor to get a better angle to beat on it. I really don't want to cut the tilt tube to get it out! (I'm not there yet, but I'm running out of options). I don't know that I could find a tilt tube to replace it, and even if I did, can I get the bushings etc,,, and instructions on how to rebuild it? I need to get this step done, so I can move on with my project! My project at a stand still, 'till I get past this hurdle.

 

[Woodonglass]

Have you tried heating the Tube and twisting the cable with vice grips. Hope fully with all that "Power Beating" you haven't "Mushroomed" the end of the cable fitting. If you have you'll NEVER get it out in that direction. You only hope of saving the tube would be to cut the cable and attempting to drive back out the other direction. You can buy replacement Tilt tubes and cables.

 

[Jeffman3]

I have a new steering cable ready to go. I just need to get this out and clean the tilt tube up if I can. I have read that replacing the tilt tube itself is a chore I don't want to do. My plan is to clean up the tilt tube that is on the motor, unless I have no other option. After a very close inspection I found 1 ding on the end of the cable rod. I'll take a file to it to ensure it doesn't cause a problem. Must have happened as a result of a glancing blow. I used an oak block to protect the end. We tried heat with no success. Once we get it off the boat, and on its side I should have a much better angle to work on it. We'll try heat again.

 

[Jeffman3]

I will pull this motor and control box. I will salvage everything I think I will use, and sell the hull to a friend who will transform this boat into his dream. We have a new dream! This boat got us going.... Now we have the restore project we were chosen for!!! I'll hold the motor, and fix it up, as a "back up" motor, or for sale, but this boat is likely gone. At best it has been down graded to " duck boat".

​

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Got any details on the new dream?

 

[Jeffman3]

This is the sale add picture of "Rose". She is our restore project now. I started a new thread for her.