new to me 97 ski sanger dlx 20 stringer movement near stern

[Rugglesworth]

I would do everything in polyester resin. Cheaper, works just fine, adjustable cure time, can apply gelcoat over it, it's what your boat is made of, so it's compatible.....the list goes on

What about vinyl-ester resin? Stronger than poly but cheaper than epoxy?

 

[Lou C]

Post up some pix of what you have might be easier to assess it then.

 

[stresspoint]

bouncing through some pretty hectic chop in a mates old 1960s savage boat I'm riding in the passenger side , , see water squirting in from a very large delamination of stinger to hull .
stop boat and it was for sure to sink , 2 kilometers out , not going to be a happy day for us , no life jackets or any safety gear on the boat. so we hoofed it in as fast as we could.
i sat the whole way back to the ramp with my knee under the dash and my foot planted pushing the stringer down so as water would not pour in.
got the boat on the trailer and a slight push opened that thing up to a 4 or 5 inch gap..

on the subject of using 5200 to hold that stringer in place , i broke a seat pedestal out out on the island kicking back on the chair too hard.
i had some 5200 onboard so i glued it back to the floor , 3 hours later as the day was over, we ran that boat through open ocean with me sitting on the chair,.

when it came time to do a proper repair , the floor delaminated before the 5200 taking it apart , in retrospect the 5200 was the best fix for that pedestal because the fiber glass repair i did , later on did the same thing , this time the screw holes were so wallowed that i had to chop the wood and replace an entire section of floor.

 

[Rugglesworth]

Post up some pix of what you have might be easier to assess it then.

I will for sure! I plan on taking out the rear bench and storage box behind it to gain better access to see what's going on. At any rate I am looking forward to the challenge. Better than sitting on the couch!

 

[Lou C]

On my boat before we fixed the deck 17 years ago, the rotted gas tank mounts let go coming off a wave returning from Huntington Bay and let the tank move with a BANG! that and putting my foot thru the deck when winterizing it that fall made a partial rebuild necessary, lol.
Made the new mounts & support cross pieces out of mahogany, very rot resistant, they are still good now 17 years later!

 

[Rugglesworth]

nicely

On my boat before we fixed the deck 17 years ago, the rotted gas tank mounts let go coming off a wave returning from Huntington Bay and let the tank move with a BANG! that and putting my foot thru the deck when winterizing it that fall made a partial rebuild necessary, lol.
Made the new mounts & support cross pieces out of mahogany, very rot resistant, they are still good now 17 years later

Nicely done Lou! I am a firm believer in DIY

 

[Rugglesworth]

Bad news for me there's a nice crack and I'm sure the wood is no good. There's no way I have time to do the whole stringer before our vacation.So the question is.... Can I run and expoxy another stringer right next to it to stiffen it up?

 

[stresspoint]

can you take some pics from further away ?.

test that shaft log has not delaminated as well, also the stringer on the other side .

there could possibly be more damage than is visible , in which case , there could be some work ahead of you before using the boat.

testing the log is a bit of a job which involves removing the shaft and log seals / gland. Use a long bar or pipe from under the boat and push around to see if anything moves in the lamination.

personally i would not use it till the log was tested for integrity. it looks like that stringer has cracked from impact a while ago so who knows how far the delamination has gone since it had the impact..

if it is just the stringer loose and the log is solid , by all means just glue it and run the boat for a season till you can chop that section out and do a scarf joint with some new material

 

[Rugglesworth]

can you take some pics from further away ?.

test that shaft log has not delaminated as well, also the stringer on the other side .

there could possibly be more damage than is visible , in which case , there could be some work ahead of you before using the boat.

testing the log is a bit of a job which involves removing the shaft and log seals / gland. Use a long bar or pipe from under the boat and push around to see if anything moves in the lamination.

personally i would not use it till the log was tested for integrity. it looks like that stringer has cracked from impact a while ago so who knows how far the delamination has gone since it had the impact..

if it is just the stringer loose and the log is solid , by all means just glue it and run the boat for a season till you can chop that section out and do a scarf joint with some new material

Hey man, thanks for that insight. So you are saying to pull the prop shaft out and put a pipe through and torque on it to see if the hull flexes? It looks and feels really solid. So if it's solid down there I should be ok? I'm thinking I have to cut open the floor on the other side to lay up some more glass for stiffness and then maybe glass another piece on the other side of this stringer with epoxy and biaxial for extra strength? I can get more pics tomorrow I put it all back together for the night?

 

[JASinIL2006]

Have you drilled any test holes in the wood structure to see if you have good wood or rotten mush? That would be a place to start, before making plans to repair the loose stringer.

 

[Rugglesworth]

Have you drilled any test holes in the wood structure to see if you have good wood or rotten mush? That would be a place to start, before making plans to repair the loose stringer.

Hi yes I did and it's toast around that area for sure. So what I'd like to do is beef up the existing glass work, marry a board right next to it to stiffen it up and maybe one cross member across from the other side. The stringer on the other side is still confirmed solid thankfully as is the transom. The stringers were hardly attached to the transom from factory. This would be a temp fix so I can use it for 2 weeks at the lake and then I can do a full replacement over the winter. I am getting a friends inspection camera from a buddy tonight to look at the stringer on the side that's covered by the floor to see the full picture before I cut that side of the floor out to access it for the temp repair.

 

[cyclops222]

Do not be surprised if you see lots of stress cracks suddenly appear.

 

[Rugglesworth]

Do not be surprised if you see lots of stress cracks suddenly appear.

so you don't think laying another stringer next to it or adding a few layers of glass will provide any strength for a couple weeks of use?

 

[cyclops222]

Of course it will. Do it.

 

[Rugglesworth]

Of course it will. Do it.

Thank you for the reply. I'm not pumped about how this worked out but I want to salvage our 2 week lake vacation at this point and then reassess after.

 

[stresspoint]

Hey man, thanks for that insight. So you are saying to pull the prop shaft out and put a pipe through and torque on it to see if the hull flexes? It looks and feels really solid. So if it's solid down there I should be ok? I'm thinking I have to cut open the floor on the other side to lay up some more glass for stiffness and then maybe glass another piece on the other side of this stringer with epoxy and biaxial for extra strength? I can get more pics tomorrow I put it all back together for the night?

yes , pull the prop and shaft to check the integrity of that shaft log as that is glassed into the floor on most boats where the shaft goes through the floor.
its better to be safe with this than sorry if that stringer delamination has traveled over time.
rotted wood makes it obvious the stringer cracked and delaminated a long time before it was noticed.
that type of delamination usually travels under where you can see and creates a void , you need to ascertain if that log is still solid in all directions , hence using a pipe or a bar to try to move it .
if it does not move , then yea , by all means use the boat till you can get to it for a proper repair .
think along the lines of if the floor had not been pulled up for that cable replacement , no one would have been any the wiser so it would have been on the lake anyway.
now you know its delaminated best you can do is for peace of mind test the structure before proceeding to have you people on the lake in it.

 

[Rugglesworth]

yes , pull the prop and shaft to check the integrity of that shaft log as that is glassed into the floor on most boats where the shaft goes through the floor.
its better to be safe with this than sorry if that stringer delamination has traveled over time.
rotted wood makes it obvious the stringer cracked and delaminated a long time before it was noticed.
that type of delamination usually travels under where you can see and creates a void , you need to ascertain if that log is still solid in all directions , hence using a pipe or a bar to try to move it .
if it does not move , then yea , by all means use the boat till you can get to it for a proper repair .
think along the lines of if the floor had not been pulled up for that cable replacement , no one would have been any the wiser so it would have been on the lake anyway.
now you know its delaminated best you can do is for peace of mind test the structure before proceeding to have you people on the lake in it.

ok sounds good