New Tires

[Timothyk86g]

Hi All,

I am in the market for a new tire on my tandem axle trailer, so I am figuring I'll buy 2. The previous owner had ST205/75R14s on there with a 1750 load at 50PSI. I am trying to not be blind and "just put on there what the last guy had on there." Are there any other considerations I should be taking into account before purchasing the new set? I have a 96 Four Winns 200 Horizon. Around 3700lb with motor. I figure another 1500 for the trailer - so 5200lb total? Is a 1750lb capacity tire enough? It's a tandem axle (4 total tires) so 1750*4 = 7000. Assuming that's good enough?

Any additional considerations I should take into account would be very much appreciated.

Thank you!

 

[poconojoe]

My experience with trailer tires for my 3,000+ pound boat...
I went from biased ply to radials and what a difference!
My trailer now feels like it's riding on a cushion.
No more jumping and hard bouncing.
It's like going from Fred Flintstone (rock) wheels to riding on a cloud.

 

[robert graham]

Since Michelin doesn’t make trailer tires, that leaves us to choose from the “other brands”, Taiwan, China, etc. I think trailer tires should be replaced about every 3 or 4 years especially if any long distance, high speed trailering is done. If tires say max PSI is 50 lbs., then put 45 PSI cold, since pressure will increase at high speeds. If you have 4 tires on your trailer then change them as a set and mark the dates since mounted….then you’ll know where you are on age of tires…

 

[JASinIL2006]

The last time I replace trailer tires, I went with Goodyear Endurance trailer tires. They are really nice; they ride smooth and have held up very well. I'll be buying them again... but probably no time soon!

 

[poconojoe]

If tires say max PSI is 50 lbs., then put 45 PSI cold, since pressure will increase at high speeds.

I don't believe so...
Max pressure value is set when the tires are cold. Don't ALL tires state that?
50 lbs when cold.
Dropping them down 5 pounds is just a wild guess of how much expansion will occur. Too many variables. Air temperature, road temperature, speed, weight on the tires, etc...
Go by what is engraved on the sidewall.

 

[Chris51280]

just replace my 4 tires with the same size you have. mine were 5-6 years old. still looked ok but didnt take any risks. I got some chinese made ones. Load range D 8ply radials. before I had even cheaper tires that came with the trailer. Load C with I think was 4 ply. I havent had the chance yet to try the new ones out but the tires you describe are ok.

 

[JimS123]

ST tires are the bottom of the barrel anyway, so don't buy 2, replace all 4. The service life is only 3-5 years.

Just replace with the same size you already have.

The brand(s) that are quality, and those that are not, changes so frequently that its hard to recommend any particular one.

 

[Timothyk86g]

thank you fellas. So it sounds like
1. I should go with Radial rather than Ply if possible?
2. The load range seems correct for my boat? 1750 at 50psi seems sufficient?

thanks!

 

[Timothyk86g]

ST tires are the bottom of the barrel anyway, so don't buy 2, replace all 4. The service life is only 3-5 years.

Just replace with the same size you already have.

The brand(s) that are quality, and those that are not, changes so frequently that its hard to recommend any particular one.

You mentioned ST tires are junk. From what I understand, ST stands for Special Tire meaning it's meant for trailers/boat trailers. Are you saying that all boat trailer tires (ST) are junk and I should get a tire made for a truck instead? Is that possible/recommended?

Edit: I've done some more research on ST vs LT. I see it's quite a popular debate and has probably been visited many times on this site alone. I think I'll stick with ST just given my use for the trailer but any perspective is appreciated!

 

[Sprig]

Just a couple of points. If you have a tandem trailer then replace all 4 tires not just 2. Pay attention to the speed rating on the trailer tires. Many are rated at 65mph or less. Get tires that your speed while towing won’t exceed the speed rating. Exceeding the speed rating causes excessive heat and tire failure.
Trailer tires are designed different from other tires. They are made to run at max pressure as shown on the tire. Running them below max inflation makes them run hotter. Towing in hot weather with under inflated trailer tires is a recipe for disaster. The number one cause of trailer tire failure is under inflation. I personally check the tire pressure on my boat trailer at least once a month.
Also pay careful attention to the date of manufacture as shown on the tire. Only buy tires that were manufactured less than 6 months ago. Tell the place where you get the tires from you want recently manufactured tires. Once a tire store was about to put tires on my trailer that were 3 years old. They had been sitting in a warehouse for 3 years. I made sure they put new tires on.
Age, UV’s and environmental factors are the killers of trailer tires. Tread ware is seldom the cause for trailer tire replacement. Replace old trailer tires even if they look great. I replace mine at 5 years (or less) even if they look great.

 

[poconojoe]

You mentioned ST tires are junk. From what I understand, ST stands for Special Tire meaning it's meant for trailers/boat trailers. Are you saying that all boat trailer tires (ST) are junk and I should get a tire made for a truck instead? Is that possible/recommended?

Get specific trailer tires.

I got my last pair of radial trailer tires from STS tire, about 4 years ago. They sold me their own brand (I think). The name on the sidewall is WD/Velocity. I gave them both tires/wheels. They dismounted the old ones and installed the new ones. I don't recall the price, but it was reasonable. These tires have been great and still look new. These things ride so smooth compared to my old biased ply ones. The old biased ply were one of the top brand names I can't recall. I will never go back to biased ply.

 

[Krazeehorse]

It looks like you have load range C tires. My wholesale cost for a load range D is less than $5 more. I would consider upgrading to a tire with more total capacity (or run less pressure) for a few bucks more.

 

[JimS123]

You mentioned ST tires are junk. From what I understand, ST stands for Special Tire meaning it's meant for trailers/boat trailers. Are you saying that all boat trailer tires (ST) are junk and I should get a tire made for a truck instead? Is that possible/recommended?

Edit: I've done some more research on ST vs LT. I see it's quite a popular debate and has probably been visited many times on this site alone. I think I'll stick with ST just given my use for the trailer but any perspective is appreciated!

ST means "Special Trailer". Many years ago you could buy a good quality USA made trailer tire and they would last for years. Then, gradually all the manufacturers switched to china plants and you could not find a quality tire any more.

Obviously, some people have different opinions, but when you have a 3 year old fully inflated tire that looked good in the morning but totally disintegrated on the highway that afternoon at 65 mph, your opinion might change.

Ever see what happens when a tire goes? I have, and its not pretty. In my case it took the trailer fender along with it. I never had an issue with USA tires, but have had a 75% failure rate on chinacrap. And yes, after 53 years of boat ownership I DO comply with the Owner's Manual.....LOL.

I understand Goodyear (and maybe others) have now returned to USA manufacture.

My "local" boat has china oem tires. I only drive a couple miles to the ramp so I'll keep them and the tires will be replaced on a 3 year schedule. My "traveling" boat (i.e., 70 mph on the interstate to vacation spots) had the oem tires replaced the first week. I run USA LT tires, and they meet the trailer's weight requirements. If you cannot find an LT in the proper weight range, then you're stuck with an ST.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Every time I've bought trailer tires, I tried to research what was best at the time, and every time I found it to be a morass of conflicting, usually anecdotal information.
"Buy ST." "Don't buy ST."
"Get radials." "No, you have to have bias ply tires."
"Avoid tires from China." "My China tires lasted 10 years with not problems."

Good luck finding any consensus. I think the best advice is to not get the cheapest tire you can find, buy tires as close to the manufactured date as you can (certainly within a year) run it at the correct pressure for your application, protect it from UV damage when not in use, always travel with one or two spares mounted to the trailer. and don't expect trailer tires to last longer than 5 years (regardless of their mileage).

Beyond that, I would just get some tires and use the boat. Life - and the boating season - is too short to agonize over trailer tires.

 

[JimS123]

I think the best advice is to not get the cheapest tire you can find, buy tires as close to the manufactured date as you can (certainly within a year) run it at the correct pressure for your application, protect it from UV damage when not in use, always travel with one or two spares mounted to the trailer. and don't expect trailer tires to last longer than 5 years (regardless of their mileage).

All sound advice.

Where people go wrong is that they DO buy cheap, they leave the trailer out in the driveway UNCOVERED, they DON'T inflate to sidewall psi, they run LONGER than 5 years, they run a 65 mph tire at 75 MPH and they don't have a spare, much less TWO.

 

[Timothyk86g]

It looks like you have load range C tires. My wholesale cost for a load range D is less than $5 more. I would consider upgrading to a tire with more total capacity (or run less pressure) for a few bucks more.

Thank you. What do you mean by “or run less pressure” ? It seems like the higher the weight rating, the more pressure the tire needs. Also, just to make sure my tire shop is giving me the right weight tire, what is the weight rating for a load range D? I can’t find a consistent set of answers online. Most just list the required PSI

 

[Timothyk86g]

I’m being told by my shop that the radials have a lower weight rating. And the load range D radials are only 1250lb. The load range C bias-ply are 1760lb. What do you guys think? Is that true? If that’s true then I think I’m limited to bias play only? It doesn’t seem right because the tires on my trailer currently say 1760lb and Radial on the side wall.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Load range really refers to the number of plies and the pressure the tires run at; it seems to be roughly correlated to the load index, which is the weight rating. (Load range D tires seem to have a higher load index.) I would go by whatever the tires have printed as their weight rating on the sidewall.

If your fully loaded boat and trailer (including fuel and all the gear carried in the boat) is 5200, the number cited in your first post, at a minimum, you need 4 tires that can each carry at least 1300 pounds.

I'd probably want to compare the price of radials and bias ply tires with the 1760 capacity and see what the cost difference is. Many of us (me included) think the radial pull more smoothly, but you'd have to decide if the cost premium is worth a smoother ride. If the difference were $100-200, I'd probably go with radials, but if you're talking $500+ across all 4 tires, I'm not sure radials would be worth it. (Unless money is no object!)

 

[Timothyk86g]

Goodyear Endurance - ST205/75R14/D 105/101N Tire - Sam's Club

Buy Goodyear Endurance - ST205/75R14/D 105/101N Tire : Trailer Tires at SamsClub.com

www.samsclub.com

How do these look? Looks like they are Load Range D 105N. 2040lb rating. I believe the N equates to 87mph. And they’re Radials. What do you guys think? Am I missing anything?

 

[bruceb58]

Goodyear Endurance - ST205/75R14/D 105/101N Tire - Sam's Club

Buy Goodyear Endurance - ST205/75R14/D 105/101N Tire : Trailer Tires at SamsClub.com

www.samsclub.com

How do these look? Looks like they are Load Range D 105N. 2040lb rating. I believe the N equates to 87mph. And they’re Radials. What do you guys think? Am I missing anything?

Those are excellent.

Buy 5 including your spare.

I would use Endurance or Maxxis only.

All the people that say you should use a truck or LT tire don't seem to understand that you can't get those in 14" tires.

As far as pressure, you inflate to what the manufacturer tells you to to inflate to. You can add 10% to the weight for a safety margin.

Here is what Goodyear tells you to inflate to. I would trust the manufacturer to what people on the internet say,

https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf