New Starcraft Islander?and I have general boat questions!

[oceanfrank]

Hi all,

I just picked up a 70's starcraft islander (photos coming later today!), and I have some questions. I'll list specific ones that I have (although I guess they aren't exactly islander-specific), but please feel free to chime in with any (seriously, ANY) other information about islanders in particular that you may have! A lot of these questions are because my current boat is an outboard and this one is an i/o, which is different enough that I want to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong

Thank you in advance, and sorry for the dumb questions!


The questions are generally about either batteries or i/o engines:

1) It needs a battery, and I don't know anything about batteries. The battery seems like it's to start the engine (it's an I/O), but it also runs the lights and gps and bilge pump and stuff. I see marine starting batteries and deep-cycle marine batteries... which do I need? How powerful?

2) Engine is an i/o chevy (140hp, 4cl). To run an I/O, which I've never done, you lower the outdrive and then just go, right? Nothing else I need to know about running one? What about cooling.... does it cool like an outboard, where water from the body of water the boat is in just pumps through? Are these generally 2 stroke or 4 stroke?

Thank you!!

 

[gm280]

Well oceanfrank, :welcome: aboard iboats. Always nice for a new member to join us...

Since this is your first I/O boat, your battery should be a marine starting battery. I say that because you didn't say it was going to power a trolling motor. So buy a good quality marine starting battery for your engine starting.

Since I don't know exactly what engine you are talking about, I would think you should be running a 4 cycle engine with the Chevy 4 cylinder engine. In other words, you shouldn't be mixing any 2 cycle oils into the fuel, just straight gas is all it should drink. As far as the cooling situation, that depends on if you have a closed system or open and using the water to circulate the engine for cooling. I am leaning towards the lake water as your cooling setup. JMHO

I am certain others will chime in with better and more specific information about your boat, engine and such.

 

[shaw520]

you lower the outdrive and then just go, right? Nothing else I need to know about running one?

Yes, Basically. Somewhere within reach of the helm station there will be your trim switch, up/down, the up selection will have a 'trim limiter', meaning that when you trim up the outdrive will only raise up to a point where it is still safe to operate. The drive shaft in an I/O has a set of universal joints that allow the drive to raise and lower while still operating,.. the trim limiter will stop the outdrive from raising beyond an angle the is not safe for the u-joints. Once the engine is shut down there will be another switch labeled "trailer",... this switch will allow the outdrive to raise further for trailering only.

 

[southkogs]

Welcome aboard Frank - the short answer is, "yes, drop it and go." It cools (unless as mentioned, it's a closed cooling system) pretty much like an outboard does.

BUT - you also want to check some things out: impeller, engine oil, gear lubes in the upper and lower units, etc. Basic maintenance stuff. Sorta like a cross between an outboard and a car engine. Also - as mentioned, depending on your drive itself things could be a little different in how best to operate the thing. If it's an OMC it's a whole different game than a Mercruiser (in terms of should's and shouldn'ts).

Definately get some photos up for us.

... but congrats on getting a new boat!

 

[harleyman1975]

You do have to drain the block/manifold if temps are going to be below freezing. The lower unit water pump impeller does require replacement every couple of seasons. Best to have lower unit completely serviced before you use it for the first time. They should check, service (and replace if needed) the bellows, u joints, gimble bearing, water pump impeller and lower unit gear oil, also the engine oil should be replaced every fall and belts checked/tightened, spare belts inspected, fuel filter changed and prop inspected for damage. You can get a manual and learn to service it yourself and save quite a bit of money. There is a lot to maintain but if well taken care of it will be a trusted friend.

 

[Alumarine]

You will have a blower in the engine compartment.
Its job is to remove fuel vapors that can accumulate in the bilge/engine compartment if there's a fuel leak.
If vapors accumulate and there is an ignition source then you can blow up. This is not an exaggeration.

There will be a switch on the dash to operate the blower.
When you flip the switch you should be able to hear the blower. It's like an exhaust fan.
There should be a 3" to 4" dryer type hose quite low in the engine compartment then attached to the blower and then vented out the boat.

Run this for a minute or so before you start the boat. Also while at idle speed.

 

[Thalasso]

I used to have a newer version Islander 221. The trim switch will be a little button on the throttle handle. Your engine isn't closed cooling. There will be brass plugs on the bottom side of the exhaust manifolds towards the rear and the same on the block for draining the water. You will need to fish a little wire in the manifolds when draining. The holes will be plugged. Most likely a 120 Merc

 

[oceanfrank]

Hi all, Thanks for all the responses!

gm280: Starting motor, I see. That makes sense. Do i need a specific kind, like, with X amount of CCAs or something? Or X amount of power? Will I be able to run my electronics (fish finder, electric trim and stuff, etc.) off that battery, and I won't kill it? Any battery recommendations from west marine or walmart or amazon?

I think it takes water, you're right: I found a pair of muffs in the boat! ha.

Shaw520: thanks, I found the switch! no battery though, so I didn't try it. But all good info, thanks for sharing!

southkogs: Thanks! I will check all that stuff, or have it checked for me. I will try to find out what the outdrive is. Will take more photos! ha.

Harleyman1975: yep, good point. I don't think it will get freezing but you never know and it's probably good practice to get into! And I will be taking your advice about getting the lower unit serviced. Hope it's not wildly expensive!

marc c: Thanks for telling me about the blower. I think that's actually a law here that you have to run it, but I only vaguely recall that and since I haven't ever had a boat like this I probably would have forgotten! ha. Thanks for the reminder, both for legal and safety reasons! and i didn't know about idle speed.

Thalasso: Thanks! didn't know any of that. I'll check it out today and hopefully I can figure out where the plugs are Might have to keep a coat hanger around!



Thanks again everyone. I will take more photos today and post them, but here's some for now!

 

[ezmobee]

That hard top is cool.

Wal-Mart batteries are perfectly fine. If they have multiple sized marine starting batteries, get the bigger one.

 

[Watermann]

Welcome to the Starmada Frank!

You have an Islander that is a rare 1978 or 79 V5 model. Not an easy one to find at all since they weren't made but those 2 years until they went to their very similar V designation later on.

By the looks of her you're going to need to do a full store on this one, it looks all original from the 70's. Hope your up for it.

 

[oceanfrank]

West Marine has batteries that run from "starting 575?group24 M4" to "starting 1050?group 27 m6". I should go with the biggest one? Just to be clear, I can also run fish finder and lights and all the motor electronics and whatever off this battery? Or should I go with one of the dual starting/deep cycle ones?

watermann, thanks for the info! I honestly have no idea what that means, but I'm doing my research so hopefully things will become clear in time I think I'm up for the restoration: looks like the hull is in decent shape, and most of the other stuff is wood, which I'm comfortable with. I'll be sure to ask all my questions, though!


Here is a photo of the outdrive: maybe someone with some knowledge can tell me what I'm dealing with here?

Thanks!!

 

[GA_Boater]

What you have is an OMC WLOD. We often call it a White Leg Of Death because OMC has been out of business for a very long time and outdrive parts are getting hard to find. If it runs well, good and I hope it does.

Welcome aboard.

 

[oceanfrank]

GA_Boater: Thanks for that info! Is an outdrive something I can swap out for something newer and/or with more common parts? I had thought that i/o boats were basically a motor, a shaft, and then an outdrive, all kind of separate. Is that worth looking into for the future? thanks!

 

[jbcurt00]

Uh not that easy.

Problem is you currently have essentially a round hole thru the transom for the motor/outdrive connection.

Mercruiser uses a keyhole shape thats entirely different

So you'll have to plug a big round hole, then cut a keyhole shape in its place.

Can be done

Has been done, quite a few times here @ iboats

Not a simple swap out 1 for the other though.

 

[Tnstratofam]

A V5 Islander is a rare find. Having an OMC wlod isn't necessarily ideal, but if it's functional without any major repairs you could run it until a donor boat with a good engine/outdrive combo ( preferably Mercruiser due to better parts support ) can be found. Like jbcurt00 said changing over from that OMC drive isn't easy but doable.

If you decide to do a full resto I would definitely change that engine/outdrive combo out.

Check out the Starcraft section. There are many good examples of rebuilds with techniques and common problems you will want to look for.

Watermann's Chieftain thread as well as any of dozerII or Budski's rebuilds are good reads and good places to start.

 

[Watermann]

You can do a google search for OMC Stringer outdrive and learn much about them and if you want to swap it out or run it as is.

The big concern is if the transom wood is compromised by rot which most are and if you want to replace it for OMC or Mercruiser.

iboater jasoutside converted an OMC islander to merc and after all that you can decide if you want to plug the hole and add an outboard pod.

 

[southkogs]

Before you get too far into your "here's what I'm gonna' do" plan, get a feel for the shape of that drive: On the engine block, or more likely the mount, there should be a tag with a model number ID on it. That'll tell you exactly what you have (should be something similar to 990244D). You've got an OMC 400 Stringer, and what that looks like is a hydro-mechanical shift (there were three different shift systems that OMC used).

IF it's working, you can keep 'em going. You're gonna' become your own mechanic, and you'll have to hunt some parts but it's not too bad. While the drives earned then name "White Boat Anchor," they do have some redeeming qualities too.

You need to pull that drive - and I'm not sure exactly how, I've never pulled that type (it's the one I know least about). Once you disconnect the shift mechanism, actually pulling the drive is super easy. You'll want to separate the upper and lower (once pulled, very easy) and make sure the upper is spinning free and the lower shifts like it's supposed to.

If it's not working, you'll be in for a gut check as the guys have mentioned above. You can swap 'em ... but it's a lotta' work.

 

[jasoutside]

Hi Frank and welcome to iboats!

I don't mean to be a wet blanket here but...

"you lower the outdrive and then just go"

....what you are thinking there ^^^^ is something you might do with a brand new boat that just came off the lot.

Now what you have is likely a boat that needs to be totally rebuild, bow to stern. Worse yet, you have an obsolete driveline. So, again, I don't wish to dash your excitement, but, you have a very steep learning curve ahead of you. Plus a big pile of money.

iboats is an excellent resource! Pour yourself a cup of coffee and start reading:thumb:

 

[Old Ironmaker]

I don't want to be a soaked blanket here. If I saw that boat for free I would run away. Many here would not and I applaud them, there is some great work here on this site. I'm sorry but based on your questions you may not have the experience to rebuild this boat. To have to need someone do simple work for you like changing fluids tells me you may not be up to the Herculean task for a novice to rebuild a nearly 50 year old boat, unless money is no object and it might not be. Last year a friend bought an early 80's era similar StarCraft in great condition, after replacing the engine plus out drive that idled great but wouldn't run past 3000 RPM with a rebuilt and replaced all wiring plus many small things that add up fast like leaking exhaust baffles he has spent close to $20,000.00 in parts and labour. It still isn't in the water because the solid "looking" transom is rotten.

Now to actually help and not criticize you will want to add a second "deep cell" battery to run your accessories. You will install a selector switch that will run battery 1, battery 2 or both.

 

[redneck joe]

Lets level set here. What is your boating experience and what is your mechanical aptitude and do you haave maybe 5 grand to spend?