NEW question on how to re-buck: Your thoughts.

[lakeorbay]

Hello everyone, it's been quite some time.

I know there are plenty of post about re-bucking but, I foresee a potential problem and want to know how others have handled it. To re-buck, you need one person in the boat with the buck-bar (or whatever it's called) and one person outside the boat with the gun. Between the two people, how do you keep track of which rivet you are on? I was thinking of maybe using two different colored markers. One black and one red. Agree on a starting point and buck five and mark them off with black, switch markers and buck the next five. Back and forth with the markers until a row is done. What do you all think or am I over thinking this?

Another question I have is, should I re-buck every rivet? In my unprofessional opinion, 99% of my rivets are tight and sound. Should I only re-buck the leaky and suspicious ones? I guess technically that's two more questions.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: NEW question on how to re-buck: Your thoughts.

Why rebuck when you can do this:

1989 Sylvan Boat Rebuild Part 4 - YouTube

Rebucking an old weak rivet is temporary at best, the rivet is already weakened and will just stretch again.

... but don't take my word for it, try it and see for yourself.

 

[Watermann]

Re: NEW question on how to re-buck: Your thoughts.

I'm not a solid rivet purist and the thought of mushing them in with a hammer and anvil doesn't seem like much fun. I use blind rivets and the closed ones are great for below the waterline. I also like SS rivets or the aluminum rivet with the steel mandrel for a tighter pop. All of the rivets I put below the water line get 5200 on them too.

One thing to look for is a dark and sometimes black discoloration around the existing solid rivets. That discoloration shows the rivet has had movement that you can't duplicate with your finger tips. To show you it's pretty subtle color change, here a pic of my cracked ribs, you can see the obvious dark circle around the rivets at the crack and no circle around the ones in the field between the ribs. Just about all rivets that are loose and moving will make that circle unless it's a fairly new loose one.

 

[lakeorbay]

Re: NEW question on how to re-buck: Your thoughts.

Oh that's good stuff. Thanks to you both. Glad I asked. I can now spot a suspicious rivet. I've actually seen that closed pop rivet video before and never considered it. That would eliminate the need of a second person and mistakes. Now the only problem is, what am I going to do with the pneumatic rivet gun I bought.

A couple of other thoughts come to mind. My boat sits pretty close to the ground on the trailer ( I can barley fit under there). I'm not so sure the long handle on that rivet gun in the video would work for me. Maybe they make one for close quarters.

The other thing is. Last time I tried to drill out a rivet, it didn't go so smooth. I used a punch to make a divot for the pilot bit. Even with the divot and a soft touch on the drill trigger, the bit kept going off center. I was afraid I was going to drill through the actual hull and not the rivet, making an extra big hole. Not good. I guess I need practice.

 

[Watermann]

Re: NEW question on how to re-buck: Your thoughts.

There are all different sorts of rivet guns out there that don't have that long throw.

Wandering drill bit, you might need to get some new bits. I use a 3/16th's to drill them out and if your at an off angle it's tough not to mention above your head under a boat.

 

[lakeorbay]

Re: NEW question on how to re-buck: Your thoughts.

Thanks Waterman. When I get under way with some progress to report, I will.