New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

[captmello]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

Sounds like you've got it figured out.

Have a look at this link. Do your manifolds look like the ones in the pic?

http://www.volvopentastore.com/EXHAUST_MANIFOLD/dm/*******.535038463--**********.385693613--store_id.366--view_id.327443

And Does your raw water pump look like this?

http://www.volvopentastore.com/SEA_WATER_PUMP/dm/*******.535038463--**********.385693613--store_id.366--view_id.327370

If so, you've got an AQ255A.

 

[Kahlua en Cream]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

no neither the manifold or the water pump look the same as those pics.

 

[captmello]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

Ya, I don't know what you've got. Could be a crusader engine. What Does it say on the sticker on the valve cover, including the fine print?

 

[Kahlua en Cream]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

How do you get the seal (flywheel side #71) out of the intermediate housing? Is there a special tool?
http://www.volvopentastore.com/mall/image/vendor/699/EPC/bigger/8067_big.png

I can't get part 39 and to release from the intermediate housing. all 6 bolts and washer plates came out just fine. It seemes like the metal on metal surfaces are all gunked up and seized. Any ideas on how to break it free? i tried hammers and deadblow hammers, wd40, all with bottle jack lightly appled. no luck. As such, I am trying to replace the bearings without removing #39.

 

[captmello]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

I believe there are holes threaded in that ring that allow you to screw out the plate like removing the helmet pin. I have not removed it on my boat so...

You can try screwing a couple screw through the seal and pulling on the screws to try to pull it out.

 

[Kahlua en Cream]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

Awesome....driving the parts appart with 3 screws in the middle holes worked. thanks! go iBoats!

two issues now...

1) the shaft is bent! on the U-joint side of the spline it is about 1/8" to 1/4" bent. as it rotates the center of the shaft moves by about this much. yikes. This is probably why it vibrates when I make turns. The shaft is quite large in diameter. Any Idea how this could have happened?

2) I want to replace the bearings (and shaft) but I still can't figure out how to get the seal off to expose the e-clip on the flywheel side of the shaft.

 

[captmello]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

two issues now...

1) the shaft is bent! on the U-joint side of the spline it is about 1/8" to 1/4" bent. as it rotates the center of the shaft moves by about this much. yikes. This is probably why it vibrates when I make turns. The shaft is quite large in diameter. Any Idea how this could have happened?

2) I want to replace the bearings (and shaft) but I still can't figure out how to get the seal off to expose the e-clip on the flywheel side of the shaft.

1. I'd like to see that when you get it out.

2. see earlier post.

 

[Kahlua en Cream]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

There is no discussion that I can find in earlier posts on how to remome the seal . Don S has a posing with a great picture. He quotes the manual in his post which suggests to use special tools to get them out. Then he suggests you don't really need special tools. Can you get the seals out without damaging them and without using special tools? what do you use? screw drivers?

The seals (flywheel side #71, and its counterpart) are the ones on the intermediate shaft.
http://www.volvopentastore.com/mall/...r/8067_big.png

 

[captmello]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

You can try screwing a couple screw through the seal and pulling on the screws to try to pull it out.

couple poats ago.

You'll ruin it alright. Order two.

If you do not have a good quality snap ring tool (any auto parts store), get one.

 

[myoldboat2]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

kahlua described the coupler fit on his boat. just thought i'd follow up--i replaced the coupler on my mercruiser 140. the coupler is centered by a machined ring. the tolerances are really tight. as long as the coupler itself has the aluminum spline part centered in the rubber donut inside the steel bowl, i don't see any way you could screw up aligning the coupler with the crankshaft centerline. aligning the sterndrive to the engine is a different story, of course.

i don't know enough about your drive to give advice on removing that part, kahlua. sorry.

 

[Kahlua en Cream]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

No updates yet... but here is an animation of the bent shaft and u-joints while rotating. if you open it in windows media player and change the speed to 8x you can really see why it vibrates when in a turn.
http://www.4shared.com/file/125934636/fa8daa82/BentShaftUjoint.html

I think I'm going to just get the shaft straighted, $25, instead of getting a new/used one for $200 to $500. It ran 3 years in this bent condition. so I think a little straightening and new bearings and seals will go a long way.

 

[captmello]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

Man, its hard to believe it would have bent. Have you got it out yet?

 

[Kahlua en Cream]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

Here are a couple pics of the shaft, end-on, each pic has the shaft is rotated by 180 deg.

Here is a video of the shaft spining...
http://www.4shared.com/file/126024465/36f0b9f6/DSCN5148.html

I measure about 0.040" of runout

 

[Kahlua en Cream]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

Well, I got the shaft and bearings out, had to take in to a shop to press the shaft out. The outer bearing (close to the u-joints) was cracked(!) but running smooth. The inner bearing was seized. I got it to spin after some cleaning. I suspect it has been seized for a 3 years, about when I bought the boat. The shaft was spinning on this bearing. It wore away enough material to be noticeable to the touch. Not sure if I can salvage the shaft.

Oh, boy is the u-joint end of the shaft damaged. Not only is it bent, but it yielded from over torque. You can see a noticeable twist of the splines.

What a mess! All this trouble as.... I just wanted to replace a leaky $1 freeze plug.

 

[captmello]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

I did a little checking on those shafts. It's a dealer only and I found it on another website for over $500.

However I'd bet that there are some used ones kicking around for much less. If you have a mechanic that works on old volvos, he may have one. Ebay perhaps. there are only a couple different part numbers on those so if you buy one off ebay, I'd get a good pic and some specs to make sure its the right one.

I think you should also check to make sure the outer part of the seized bearing wasn't spinning in the flywheel cover. the bearing should fit tight and need to be pressed/driven into the cover. If it slides in and out, the flywheel cover is shot. Sounds like the driveshaft took the majority of the abuse.

I still can't imagine that shaft being twisted and bent. It seems like something else would have broken first.

With any luck its just a new shaft, bearings, ujoints, bellows, few seals and orings.

 

[Kahlua en Cream]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

For those of you following this thread here is the latest....

Got the shaft straightened for $50 by The Prop Shop Sodus Bay NY. They did a good job, reduced the bending from .125" to .010". Not perfect but dam close.

The surface which was marred from spinning on the bearing for 3 years was fixed by a machine shop for $35. On the advice of a friend, they machined a 0.5? wide shallow slot in the shaft cleaning up the marring. Then they wrapped a piece of shim stock 0.010" around the shaft, and pressed the bearing on to the shim stock. The important part is to leave a shoulder in the shallow slot to keep the shim from sliding around during the press operation. Also, the machining of the slot needs to be carefully done so the bearing press is just right (tap fit as they say, about .0001 interference or so).

Ordered bearings from Volvo for a 280 outdrive. But the outer bearing and seal were not the right size. I have heard that my 280 has a special intermediate housing, possibly made by Bayliner itself, to mount to a standard automotive 350 Chevy block. As such I had to find a bearing otherwise. www.VBX.com rulz! $7.95 for a 30x55x13mm sealed ball bearing. Similar SKF bearing Volvo sells for (a reasonable) $17.95.

It should be all back together by sat afternoon. I?ll let you know how it runs.

 

[captmello]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

Out of curiosity, did you look for a used shaft prior to having the old one fixed?

I'm sure volvo didn't make any special flywheel cover for Bayliner. Did you ever figure out what marine engine you have?

I hope it all works out for you. I like the idea of the sealed bearings.

 

[Kahlua en Cream]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

Yes I did. used shafts were not much lessexpensive than new. $450 used $550 new.

the Exhaust manifold says "Marine Power..."

 

[captmello]

Re: New noise after engine removal and reinstallaion

Well after some more searching I found that the AQ225A and AQ200A had those manifolds. The 200A was a two barrel and the 225A was a four barrel. Both were 305 engines. Your's is most likely a repowered 225A.

What does it say on your valve cover? There's a sticker on it.