New member - deck install panga

grouper242

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Mar 22, 2022
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24
Here are some photos, I have started grinding! Will be using 2 floor supports/stringers per section with 15/32 marine plywood for the deck, and also 2lb 2part foam for floation.

I'm not relying on the foam for floor support, but if it stiffens everything up that would be great.
 

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grouper242

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Mar 22, 2022
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What should I use to fair the tabbing up the hull sides? 3M lightweight boy filler, or poly resin/cabosil mix?
 

todhunter

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Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,311
Are you trying to fair it all in to where you can't see it? Tear (don't cut) some CSM so that you have a "hairy" edge, then while your tabbing is still wet, lay the CSM over the edges of the tabbing by about 2-3 inches (hairy edge of CSM up/on the hull) and wet it out. This will give you a less harsh edge to your tabbing and if you want to fair further, you can fill/sand and you'll mostly be sanding into the CSM and not your structural tabbing.

Don't use cabosil and resin to make fairing compound that you plan to sand - it doesn't sand well. I would go with glass bubbles in polyester resin, or buy a marine fairing compound that is polyester or vinyl ester based.
 

kcassells

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Are you trying to fair it all in to where you can't see it? Tear (don't cut) some CSM so that you have a "hairy" edge, then while your tabbing is still wet, lay the CSM over the edges of the tabbing by about 2-3 inches (hairy edge of CSM up/on the hull) and wet it out. This will give you a less harsh edge to your tabbing and if you want to fair further, you can fill/sand and you'll mostly be sanding into the CSM and not your structural tabbing.

Don't use cabosil and resin to make fairing compound that you plan to sand - it doesn't sand well. I would go with glass bubbles in polyester resin, or buy a marine fairing compound that is polyester or vinyl ester based.
Yup what Tod said.
 

grouper242

Cadet
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
24
Are you trying to fair it all in to where you can't see it? Tear (don't cut) some CSM so that you have a "hairy" edge, then while your tabbing is still wet, lay the CSM over the edges of the tabbing by about 2-3 inches (hairy edge of CSM up/on the hull) and wet it out. This will give you a less harsh edge to your tabbing and if you want to fair further, you can fill/sand and you'll mostly be sanding into the CSM and not your structural tabbing.

Don't use cabosil and resin to make fairing compound that you plan to sand - it doesn't sand well. I would go with glass bubbles in polyester resin, or buy a marine fairing compound that is polyester or vinyl ester based.
Thanks, I will follow that advice. I'm not looking for it to disappear, just to look ok.

I have a gallon of light grey gelcoat with wax.

Would one coat rolled on be sufficient for the deck and hull sides, or do I need to buy some unwaxed gelcoat so I can put down multiple coats?
Best roller for gelcoat?
 

todhunter

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Sep 15, 2020
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1,311
I would do 2 layers minimum. The gelcoat really starts to fill in the CSM pattern and leave a decent surface. I just used 4" mohair rollers for everything (resin and gelcoat)
 

grouper242

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Mar 22, 2022
Messages
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I would do 2 layers minimum. The gelcoat really starts to fill in the CSM pattern and leave a decent surface. I just used 4" mohair rollers for everything (resin and gelcoat)
Thanks! I'll do a coat of unwaxed then waxed on the hull sides, and on the deck I'll do the same but sprinkle pumice for non-skid in between the coats.
 

grouper242

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Mar 22, 2022
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All the grinding is done, and I have cut all the floor panels. Under each panel are 2 floor supports/stringers.
 

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grouper242

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Mar 22, 2022
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Glassed and foamed in the first 2 sections.
 

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kcassells

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Just running this by you. Just say yes please.
So when you cut the closed cell foam to make level you need to seal it with poxy or else it becomes open and water loves that.
Yes. looks great.
 

grouper242

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Mar 22, 2022
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Thanks all. I did not put resin on the foam, but maybe I'll do it on the other two sections. Each compartment is fully sealed so hopefully won't be an issue.
 

kcassells

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Looks great Grouper



Not required so far as I know
Just so you understand cut closed foam is now open cell. Just a quick info
in regard to marine foam. When poured thru the deck it will attach to under the deck. And remains closed cell.
Nothing is required if you don't know or care. This is just a heads up for others is all. I thought this was common knowledge.
Boat will still float.
link;
Quote
But numerous accounts of boaters who replaced closed-cell foam after years of wear and tear show that even this type of foam can absorb water once the protective outer layer is compromised by tiny cuts, abrasions, or sun damage. Long story short, closed-cell foam can absorb water if left submerged in water in a confined space for a long duration of time.
 

grouper242

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Mar 22, 2022
Messages
24
Been raining lately, so I have only been able to glass in the anchor locker, and fix some bubbles on the deck.
Having a hard time laying csm on the top edge of 1/2 ply. Also, laying large pieces of 4 oz as the finish layer on the deck is difficult due to air bubbles. Do you think 1 layer of 1.5csm (not including the tabbing with Biaxial and csm) is fine for a lightly used deck?
 

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alldodge

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One layer should be good.
Put resin down before CSM then more resin, you want it all wet
 

kcassells

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Quote;
"For your deck you can use the 1.5 CSM on both sides and you will probably be just fine. Some folks on here recommend a light weight cloth instead. The cloth will leave a smoother finish. If your boat is fiberglass then you will need to tab the deck to the hull with something more substantive like 1708 biaxial cloth."
I would do at least 2 layers of csm.
Personally, I would use a cloth. Nice to see you moving along.
 
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grouper242

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Mar 22, 2022
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Thanks guys. Bottom of deck panels are 1 layer 1.5csm, precoated with resin until tacky before laying the mat. Tabbing is 1.5 csm, then 1808.

I've completed 2/4 of the deck sections so far. The bow section has a layer of 1.5csm, then 4oz cloth.

The second section is only a layer of 1.5 csm. I will try to do both 1.5 and 4oz on the remaining sections if I can get the bubbles rolled out during the layup. I'll have to get better with the resin bubble roller. Any tips on this?
 
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