new here have question

lazyfish

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Jul 16, 2011
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Re: new here have question

Sorry I missed this one..

Thats ok,I appreciate your input.The name on this thread does not represent what I am trying to accomplish.I do not know who to ask to change the title.

The balsa wood was all over the inside of hull,I donot want to put it together that way.As my mind changes about some of the small things,I think am going to stick with my plan as stated before in post #17.Unless otherwise I am directed away from my plan by the guys that know what they are doing,I have been reading alot of the forum and have not seen a balsa core rebuild or a balsa core rebuild with stringers,but there are hundreds of threads here.

Last Mohican I see are in the dallas area,do you know of a fiberglass supplier that I might by my supplies locally.
 

lazyfish

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Jul 16, 2011
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Re: new here have question

I finally got my boat in a caddy I built to hold it flat and not twisted.

Saturday morning I am going to apply resin and glass to the areas that pulled up when I pulled up the balsa wood core.Any suggestions.I was going to grind out the places square and feather edge the area around the gouge.Apply enough fabric to be even with the finished floor and about 3 inches around the repair.I may not have to do this step but i want a nice fibrglass floor to bed my stringers to.Pleasee let me know of any other ways to go about it.

You can see some of the places in the pics.Thanks
 

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lazyfish

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Re: new here have question

I read a post today by steve5,in a reply to the post it is suggested that he use 1/4 in dowels to hold up stringers offf the hull.As odd as this question sounds I would like to know why he should bed the stringers a 1/4 inch off of the hull.There are two reasons I would like to know 1)I will be getting to my stringer replacement as soon as it cools down enough to continue with my repair.2)I want the knowledge,I just want to know as much as I can learn.
 

lazyfish

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Re: new here have question

Thank you woodenglass,I consider that info to be the most valued to me so far.That is a great website for any beginner to read to help with the understanding to what is going on with parts of their boat.

I was going to stick my stringers to the hull with epoxy and no bedding and I believe,now,that would have been a BIG mistake.Once again thanks!

Now I never used pl adhesive,does it dry flexible?

I think I can make that the last newbie questiion for awhile or at least til the temp cools enough I can work on my boat with out having a heat stroke.
 

Woodonglass

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25,927
Re: new here have question

Here's how I recommend doing it...

NOTE: It takes up to 72 hours for the PL to cure. It will remain flexible even when totally cured, but it must be cured or the gases it gives off during curing will not allow the resin to cure properly.

(Click the Pic to Enlarge)

34 Stringers.jpg
 

lazyfish

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Re: new here have question

Well I'm NOT a PRO but I believe what you have there is a Balsa Core Hull. Kinda like this one...

balsacoredhull.jpg


If so, You have to go about fixing it, a little differently than the normal stringer and Glass approach.
You really need to seek further advice abou this, In my opinion. I could be wrong but I don't think so.:rolleyes:

After reading from this website,http://www.yachtsurvey.com/cored_hull_bottoms.htm,I do not want to install a balsa core hull.I think I want to install stringers and about 4 ribs maybe 2.If you have not read it,do so and let me know why you think I should repair the boat differntly than the traditional stringer and glass.If you do not agree with what they say at yachtsurvey let me know,right now I can change the way I was doing it before I bed the stringers.When or if water gets into the hull it will not drain out,and I was hoping to keep the boat from twisting as I am going down the lake.The stringers will only raise the floor about 1 1/2 inches and the tallest point.At the edges of the boat,the chines I think they are called,will only be raised 1/2 inch.The center of the floor had a pitch to the center is why the floor is raised less at the chines than the center of the boat.The floor will be flat now,with a bilge area to drain any water that may eventually find its way in the boat.

What are the advantages of putting back a balsa core?
 

Cadwelder

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Re: new here have question

After reading from this website,http://www.yachtsurvey.com/cored_hull_bottoms.htm,I do not want to install a balsa core hull.I think I want to install stringers and about 4 ribs maybe 2.If you have not read it,do so and let me know why you think I should repair the boat differntly than the traditional stringer and glass.If you do not agree with what they say at yachtsurvey let me know,right now I can change the way I was doing it before I bed the stringers.When or if water gets into the hull it will not drain out,and I was hoping to keep the boat from twisting as I am going down the lake.The stringers will only raise the floor about 1 1/2 inches and the tallest point.At the edges of the boat,the chines I think they are called,will only be raised 1/2 inch.The center of the floor had a pitch to the center is why the floor is raised less at the chines than the center of the boat.The floor will be flat now,with a bilge area to drain any water that may eventually find its way in the boat.

What are the advantages of putting back a balsa core?

Well I personally don't see a problem with going back with stringers. As a rule of thumb we try to restore all boats here as they were orginally, but in this case I'd go with the stringers.

Stringer placement is desgin by the boats engineers from the ground up for support, stress, flex, etc, but since this is not a high speed, high performance boat, I can't see a problem with the four stringers you're planning on. I too like the drainage issue you mentioned.

As far as rasing the deck slightly, no biggie there, and inch isn't going to hurt your center of gravity issue.

Now for your last statement about the balso core. Since I don't have any experience with the balsa core I can't comment on that. I'm sure its a weight issue as balsa is a very light wood, other than that I can't answer your question. Perhaps some of the other guys here have more advice on the balsa.

Hope this helps.
CW
 

lazyfish

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Re: new here have question

000_0005_00.jpg100_0007.jpg100_0008.jpg100_0009.jpg

Thanks cw,I always think that it is better to put the boat back like it was designed.Although I keep an open mind about this,I think there are design flaws in products we buy,sometimes.My experiences with the balsa core(rotted balsa core)the boat would have a torsional twist(if that's the right term),and I do not want my boat to twist like that anymore than possible.I am worried that will put cracks in the hull or work the glass layers loose.As I have the transom mounted and filleted,Although I have the stringers cut and in place I am not ready to bed the stringers for a while,I can change the core system.I will wait to see what other guys have to say as well.
 

lazyfish

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Jul 16, 2011
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Re: new here have question

100_0021.jpg

These two wet spots look and feel like resin that has never dried,this boat is 40 yrs old.I cant tell it has been repaired since new,surely the didn`t put the fiberglass in without well mixed resin.would they?Just thought it was odd,except for the transom I have not did any fiberglass work to it yet.The spots did not appear til I sanded that spot down.A whole lotta more grinding and sanding before it looks like any progress will happen.
 

Cadwelder

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Aug 30, 2010
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Re: new here have question

Well just never know what you'll find in an old boat, or what someone else has done. You just gotta keep plugging away and fix as you come to it.

Grinding is the worst part of all restores. Make sure you safety equipment is top notch.
 
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