New Engine Replacement - Engine Died and Hydro locked after 5 hrs!?

CaptnO

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
104
Hello Fellow boaters. I wanted to get some experts advice on here to get some more opinions on what could of caused my new engine to die randomly and only after putting 5 hours on the new motor.

I purchased a 2004 Chaparral 260ssi with a Volvo Penta GXI-E 320hp earlier this year. The boat ended up needing a new block so one was purchased from Marine Engines out of MA which was manufactured by Eagle Engine Sales . This seems to be the correct engine based on Part Number that is stamped on the side of the engine. 5.7 MPI Long Block. The Boat was finally completed on October 23rd after waiting since June. On October 24th I took the boat out again for a few hours to continue to break in the engine and while I was cruising around 1200-1400rpms the engine just shut off on me (it seemed like the same way when you turn the key off. It was an instant shut off) I attempted to restart the engine however it was not turning over. Link of Video here. I contacted my mechanic immediately and he thought that I might have ran out of fuel. My fuel gauge was reading 1/4 Tank full which would be about 19.75 gallons of gas on this boat. (79 Gallon Tank). I had to get towed and we left the boat at the ramp. My mechanic was able to inspect it 2 days later. He called me and told me that I hydro locked the motor, he found water in all 8 Cylinders. I explained to him that I was just cruising at slow speeds and it died, he still believed that I ran out of gas which cut the engine suddenly and then allowed water to enter through the exhaust port. He said he would get the water out and do a few oil changes to get it running again then fill up the gas to see how much Fuel I actually had in my boat when it died. 3 weeks had passed and I didn't get any response from him I called him everyday all last week and nothing. He basically abandoned my boat at the marina and left me hanging after paying him $14k for all the work that was done to the boat.

I decided to take my boat to a local Volvo Penta Dealer shop this past Tuesday. I just meet with the Volvo Penta mechanic today and he spent over 2 hours going over everything he did and explaining some possibilities. The good news was that he was able to get all the water out, there was some surface rust on the inside when he cracked the motor without the plugs in but he said that it would be okay. He did about 3 oil changes to make sure there was no water left in the engine. His conclusion was the following:

1) Needed to make sure that the engine which was installed was compatibly with my 5.7 GXI-E 320hp since that OEM engine had the 1.6 Ratio Rockers Comp cams. The ECM was tuned for that Original Volvo Penta engine and he said if the valve train was different it could cause some intermittent issues with the ECM (I am not sure what ratio the rockers are however I found out this afternoon which engine it was and where it came from I called both Marine Engines and Eagle Engine sales to confirm that the PN: 2541-S1 was compatibly and they both said that they were)

2) His other finding was the Engine wiring harness had some corrosion on the 10pin connector (pic here) He also said that it wasn't all the way in so messed around with the pins and made sure that it was secured correctly and sprayed some WD-40 on the pins as well. He confirmed this might have been the problem as when he was doing the oil changes and running the engine he would wiggle that connector around and it would kill the engine. He mentioned that I might have to replace the wiring harness but I am not sure if I can just remove the corrosion from the pins, spray some electrical cleaner and throw some Di-Electric grease on there to help preserve it longer.

3) The no fuel Theory was pretty much cancelled out because I personally filled up the boat with 60 gallons of gas and didn't stop until the gas was all coming out of the fuel filler port. This means that when my engine died that day I had at least 18-19 gallons of gas. Which was about 1/4 tank of fuel so my fuel gauge was reading correctly. The only other possible scenario which my old asshole mechanic brought up was that the pick up tube might not be all the way down to the bottom of the tank or could be corroded or damaged. I guess the only way to confirm that is to run my boat back down again to the 1/4 tank mark or lower and see if it dies out. When I mentioned this to the Volvo Penta mechanic he said that could another possibility however didn't want to remove the pick up tube from the tank as giving the age of the boat it could do more damage then good. Also if your boat has trouble sucking up fuel usually it starts to sputter and hesitate before dying out. I don't believe it would die out instantly like it did that day.

So my plan now is take the boat back on the water tomorrow and continue breaking in the engine and drive it around to make sure that it is running okay. Thank you guys for taking the time to read this long post. It is a very stressful and frustrating situation and I look forward to hearing your thoughts and opinions.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,054
Agree with VP Mech that its not the pickup tube, and don't think it was lack of fuel that killed the motor. It was either electrical or because of the water
cruising around 1200-1400rpms
Is the boat actually on plane at that rpm or just plowing water?

Is this a salt water boat or fresh?

Were the exhaust manifolds inspected, as in the manifold was separated from the riser for gasket and surface inspection?

If the 10 pin needs to be replaced you can just replace the pigtail. Search on Mercruiser 10 pin pigtail connector (Mech is same as VP). The connector in the link is just one place.

Another way water can enter is a leaking intake, but this is doubtful because its its in all cylinders. Could also be that the motor has a automotive cam and reversion is happening because of incorrect cam. The rocker ratio as mentioned goes with the auto/cam setup
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,653
Remember these Volvos do not have flappers at the top of the Y pipe as Mercs do and OMCs did. In fact the Volvo SX is ad adapted OMC Cobra design that had flappers just like Merc. Volvo felt they didn’t help so they removed them. Mine has had them all this time and I never had a hydro lock. I would for sure would inspect the exhaust system and also measure the static water line of the boat. Make sure the tops of the exhaust elbows are at least 13-14” above that level. If not Volvo sells taller elbows that can be fitted. If I had one of these boats with no flappers I might consider removing the exhaust bellows and fitting a flapper valve on the exhaust outlet on the gimble housing to keep water from running up the exhaust. Just like inboards with thru the hull exhaust….
 

CaptnO

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
104
Agree with VP Mech that its not the pickup tube, and don't think it was lack of fuel that killed the motor. It was either electrical or because of the water

Is the boat actually on plane at that rpm or just plowing water?

Is this a salt water boat or fresh?

Were the exhaust manifolds inspected, as in the manifold was separated from the riser for gasket and surface inspection?

If the 10 pin needs to be replaced you can just replace the pigtail. Search on Mercruiser 10 pin pigtail connector (Mech is same as VP). The connector in the link is just one place.

Another way water can enter is a leaking intake, but this is doubtful because its its in all cylinders. Could also be that the motor has a automotive cam and reversion is happening because of incorrect cam. The rocker ratio as mentioned goes with the auto/cam setup
The boat about 1500 is kind of plowing water moving at about 6-7 mph. This is Fresh water on a river. The Exhaust manifolds and Risers are all new. The main issue that it has is the engine randomly shut off which then causes the water to get inside. Well at least that is what happened the first time around.

Here is the update for today, I ran it at idle and 1500 rpms for about 15 mins while at the boat ramp. I had about a 30 mins no wake zone from the boat ramp so I was traveling around 800-1200 rpms. I was out for about 2 hours today went from 1500rpms to 2000, 2500,3000,3500. I did these a few times back and forth and it was running good. i did notice my brand new fuel pump assembly was making a high pitched noise not sure why but it's brand new. I'm going to have to discuss that with the shop on Monday . On the way back to the boat ramp. I was traveling around 3300rpms dropped it to 2800rpms then walked it down to about 1500 as i was entering the no wake zone. Now the same issue happened again. About 3-5mins into the no wake zone the end suddenly died. I quickly threw it into neutral and attempted to restart the end. It took about 5 seconds then it started right up. So I don't think I got water into the engine this time around but I'll have to check the sparkplugs and cylinder tomorrow and see. I cruised the additional 25mins in the no wake zone at 1000rpms and made it back to the ramp safety. This is very frustrating I hope I can find out what is causing this intermittent shutoffs.
 

CaptnO

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
104
Remember these Volvos do not have flappers at the top of the Y pipe as Mercs do and OMCs did. In fact the Volvo SX is ad adapted OMC Cobra design that had flappers just like Merc. Volvo felt they didn’t help so they removed them. Mine has had them all this time and I never had a hydro lock. I would for sure would inspect the exhaust system and also measure the static water line of the boat. Make sure the tops of the exhaust elbows are at least 13-14” above that level. If not Volvo sells taller elbows that can be fitted. If I had one of these boats with no flappers I might consider removing the exhaust bellows and fitting a flapper valve on the exhaust outlet on the gimble housing to keep water from running up the exhaust. Just like inboards with thru the hull exhaust….
Yes based on my research I am aware of this. However I don't think the water is coming into the engine then causing it to shut down. I believe the engine is shutting down for some other reason then the instant shut down causing the engine to run in reverse and intake water. I will take a look at my exhaust elbows though just to get an idea as well, Thanks for your input
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,054
An instant shut down should not cause the motor to inject water if the elbows are spec above the water line.

The high pitch fuel pump and taking time to get restarted, it may have a fuel restriction. The restriction may be a collapsed fuel line, pickup tube, antisiphon valve

Might want to attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and see if the pressure changes
 

CaptnO

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
104
An instant shut down should not cause the motor to inject water if the elbows are spec above the water line.

The high pitch fuel pump and taking time to get restarted, it may have a fuel restriction. The restriction may be a collapsed fuel line, pickup tube, antisiphon valve

Might want to attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and see if the pressure changes
So your saying I might have two issues? One being the random shut off (maybe fuel or electric related) and two the water ingestion because my risers might bit be high enough?

Would it be possible that at a certain RPM my boat has a higher chance or ingesting water because my risers aren't high enough? Thus causing my engine to stall out because a little bit of water gets inside?.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,054
Could be a few things, but need more info to determine.
The water ingestion is the weird one. Everything being the same it should not have happened but it did. The last motor this didn't happen so it leans me toward the new motor make up, but does not exonerate the exhaust possibility

I do think from what you said last it could very well be a fuel issue
 

CaptnO

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
104
Could be a few things, but need more info to determine.
The water ingestion is the weird one. Everything being the same it should not have happened but it did. The last motor this didn't happen so it leans me toward the new motor make up, but does not exonerate the exhaust possibility

I do think from what you said last it could very well be a fuel issue
I don't know what happened to the last motor. When I bought it, it only had 350hrs on it and my mechanic told me too replace it since it was a salt water boat and one of the cylinders wasn't holding compression. The old engine was running before but it wasn't 100% which is why we never did a water trail on it. So this could of been an issue that the last owners had with the old motor.
 

ejnichol

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 28, 2002
Messages
143
The high whine has been attributed to using aftermarket fuel filters vs oem. Mine had a noticable whine to it but switching to vp brand from sierra didn't make any difference. Your problem cuttng off could be a loose electrical connection. Good Luck.
 
Last edited:

CaptnO

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
104
The high whine has been attributed to using aftermarket fuel filters vs oem. Mine had a noticable whine to it but switching to vp brand from sierra didn't make any difference. Your problem cuttng off could be a loose electrical connection. Good Luck.
The Fuel Pump Assembly is completely OEM Volvo Penta brand new along with a new Fuel Filter.
 

CaptnO

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
104
Could be a few things, but need more info to determine.
The water ingestion is the weird one. Everything being the same it should not have happened but it did. The last motor this didn't happen so it leans me toward the new motor make up, but does not exonerate the exhaust possibility

I do think from what you said last it could very well be a fuel issue
I confirmed with the previous owner yesterday. The boat ran for them fine last season. He didn't even know that one of the cylinders had low compression. But the boat ran and they never had any electrical issues minus some trim cable. Never hydro locked and never had the engine shut off on them randomly.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,054
No telling if PO is telling the 100% truth. If they are the several things went wrong all at once
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,653
If you’ve got a whining fuel pump be sure to check the anti siphon valve on the gas tank. They can corrode and/or get clogged with debris from the tank. There is also a screen on the fuel tank pick up tube that can get clogged. These are fairly common problems that can cause whining & premature failure with electric fuel pumps.
 

CaptnO

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
104
No telling if PO is telling the 100% truth. If they are the several things went wrong all at once
I mean I don't see why he would have any reason to lie about it. I already spent the money and told him I threw a new motor in there.
 

CaptnO

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
104
If you’ve got a whining fuel pump be sure to check the anti siphon valve on the gas tank. They can corrode and/or get clogged with debris from the tank. There is also a screen on the fuel tank pick up tube that can get clogged. These are fairly common problems that can cause whining & premature failure with electric fuel pumps.
Ok I will check this out tomorrow as well
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,054
Might be air passing by the mic but I'm hearing a miss, its just not smooth

So far as someone that just sold a problem to another, it can either be not an issue because it wasn't their, or they don't want to admit it, or they don't want to get sued
 

ripjmk

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 26, 2019
Messages
152
As it seems to run OK at medium to high load but not at low load I would check you have good cooling water flow through the fuel pump cell. Disconnect the water return to the port exhaust riser, cap/plug the riser connection, and hold the hose at the same height as the riser connection and run the engine. You need to get a steady stream out at idle, The fuel pumps pass the same amount of fuel whether at idle or full throttle so when at idle the maximum amount of fuel is bypassed and generates the most heat in the cell. After an extended period at low power without cooling the fuel will vaporize and the pumps cavitate.
 
Top