New Engine Replacement - Engine Died and Hydro locked after 5 hrs!?

[bruceb58]

Is this the generation of pumps that had the paint flaking issue?

 

[CaptnO]

Is this the generation of pumps that had the paint flaking issue?

No I have the newest version of Fuel Pump directly from Volvo Penta. They corrected that issue in the new fuel pumps.

 

[bruceb58]

No I have the newest version of Fuel Pump directly from Volvo Penta. They corrected that issue in the new fuel pumps.

How old is your pump? I guess I missed where you changed it.

 

[CaptnO]

How old is your pump? I guess I missed where you changed it.

It was changed this year, it was a whole big Project. 5.7 GM Long block, fuel pump assembly, risers, exhaust manifolds, bellows kit, spark plugs, oil pressure switch, knock sensor, trim sensor, starter assembly, rehub props, injectors were cleaned and tested and new fluids gear oil and engine oil. All the parts were purchased new OEM between June-August.

 

[Scott06]

Here are some more videos from the water trail on Saturday before it randomly died on me.

Video 1

Video 2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yjqsR1uYheAAFGTo7
Fuel Pump Making Noise
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zp8EZE5mbgnML8869
Weird Water spray coming up from the back of the boat.

water spray looks like something that would come off a depth finder transducer added to transom or maybe something off the swim platform added

 

[CaptnO]

water spray looks like something that would come off a depth finder transducer added to transom or maybe something off the swim platform added

Ok Thank I just thought it was weird as I didn't notice that before during my test run and happened towards the end of my test run. So I thought something might have been up.

 

[Lou C]

the connections for the fuel pump look a little sketchy, might want to go over them & make sure they are clean and tight.
I had a problem with a sticky anti siphon valve on my boat years ago, I was not familiar with marine fuel systems then, my mechanics caught it and the boat has run fine ever since even with the stone age technology of a mechanical Carter fuel pump and GM's all purpose 4bbl the mighty Quadrajet.
The basic problem with electric pumps in marine engines is that they cannot be put in the gas tank and push fuel toward the engine as is the case in automotive systems, due to safety concerns they pull it from the tank instead. So, any restriction in the anti siphon valve, pick up tube or tank vent can cause these problems. And, at 450-900 a pop for OEM pumps (low end is just a low pressure electric pump for carb engines, high end is low and high pressure for EFI) you really want to make sure that you have no restrictions in your fuel delivery system.

 

[CaptnO]

Confirmed today that the anti siphon valve was removed however the Volvo Penta tech that wasn't a big deal and wouldn't cause it to shut down. If it was installed and clogged then that could be the case. He also went through the fuel system and we did find a vacuum leak which I believe was the case of the whining noise. The wiring harness was altered from before however he didnt see any issues with it. It seemed to run fine today however I only was able to put an hour of water time on it as it was windy AF today. I also did the static water line test and my measurements came out to 10" which is 3 " below the OEM spec.

 

[CaptnO]

Pics and videos from today's water test. Measurements of the static water line, engine running, and exhaust pics.

Pics and Video here

 

[Lou C]

How high is the water relative to the Y pipe?
Was the exhaust bellows recently removed or was it always like that? I think you should re-install it, remove that exhaust tube because it leaves the exhaust passage wide open to water rushing in, or put a flapper over that opening instead.

 

[CaptnO]

How high is the water relative to the Y pipe?
Was the exhaust bellows recently removed or was it always like that? I think you should re-install it, remove that exhaust tube because it leaves the exhaust passage wide open to water rushing in, or put a flapper over that opening instead.

I don't really know what I am looking for in those pics I just took some to give a more visual of the boat. According to my invoice the shitty mechanic installed a new Bellows Kit.

I didn't measure the water line from the Y pipe. I would imagine it's below the water line. Which exhaust tube are you referring too?

I used that link you posted on how to measure the static water line from the elbow and if my calculations are correct it came in at 10". So slightly below the OEM specs. Would it be worth to swap those for the 11 inch risers instead? Or is more information needed first?

Is this the y-pipe you are referring too?

 

[alldodge]

Being 10 inch from water line and 3 inch low is either a bad install by chaparral or the hull is water logged and it heavy. So I would get taller risers if there is clearance

 

[CaptnO]

So this is how I measured it. That 7 inches is where the water hits on the outside of the boat. It covers that drain up. Then if you look at the elbow the 7 inch pretty much at the end of the elbow. Assuming that platform is the engine bay is all flat from where I placed the tape measure to measure it all and everything the measurement should be accurate.

 

[Lou C]

That can be tricky to measure but here's how I did it.
Took a piece of wood long enough to overhang the gunnels on both sides. And a tape measure. Then hung over the gunnel and measured down from the wood on the gunnels (placed right over the exhaust elbows) to the water. Now, record that measurement. Next measure down from the wood, to the top of the elbows. The difference is the static water line measurement. The way you were trying to do it will never work because you don't know how far up the water is inside the Y pipe.
Next, that opening you see when the drive is tilted up is the exhaust opening in the pivot housing, you seem to have an exhaust tube there instead of the more common bellows. Normally Volvos just like OMC Cobras have 2 bellows, the upper universal joint bellows and the lower exhaust bellows.

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yours should look like this, the lower bellows is what I'm talking about. I can't find your exact model of the SX series because the only way to know is to know the model # of your transom mount (TSK in Volvo speak). No one makes a harder to figure out parts catalog then them. Maddening.
Anyway you should get the bellows and install it!

 

[CaptnO]

Stern Serial # 4202055789
Product # 3868913
DP-SM(AQ)
1.95:1

There is my info for my Stern Drive if that help at all.

Looking at my invoice he did Gimbal Bearing and Bellows Kit.

 

[Lou C]

He did the u joint bellows but not the exhaust bellows. Part #21, there's a hose clamp on the fwd end and a C-clip style retainer on the aft end. You'd have to pull the drive to install this. Either that, or remove the exhaust tube and install a proper size flapper.

 

[CaptnO]

So I need to install part number 21 and 19? He had everything taken apart I feel like he should of known something was missing or needed to be replaced. The whole drive was out as well. SMH.

Doing both of those parts will fix any water intake issues? Do I still need to get higher risers?

Also forgot to mention I purchased new ignition coils today and installed those as well since one of mine were loose and wasn't staying on, so on the water trail I did on Saturday I was running on 7 cylinders for some time. It definitely felt smoother today with those fresh plugs and new coils on. (Again can't believe old tech didn't think to change these especially after replacing the distributor) I did inspect one of the spark plugs as well and noticed some light glazing, Tech said might be from some old debris from my gas tank. It's all fresh gas however boat is a 2004 which is 17 years old.

 

[alldodge]

I don't see it being the Y pipe or exhaust boot.

If it is lower then the VP says it should be, then that's the problem with water ingestion. Not have an exhaust tube going to the drive will not cause a problem because its behind the drive.

As Lou said, use a 2x4 across the gunnels at the exhaust risers. Measure down to the waters edge then measure at the exhaust. Note the boat will lean some when on one side without a counter weight

 

[CaptnO]

I don't see it being the Y pipe or exhaust boot.

If it is lower then the VP says it should be, then that's the problem with water ingestion. Not have an exhaust tube going to the drive will not cause a problem because its behind the drive.

As Lou said, use a 2x4 across the gunnels at the exhaust risers. Measure down to the waters edge then measure at the exhaust. Note the boat will lean some when on one side without a counter weight

Okay I'll go back tomorrow and do that. I'll run a long 2x4 that goes across the engine bay and place it on top of the gunnels. Then measure down from there. I already know where the water line is now so I guess I can do this while the boat is on the trailer. I don't think my measurements will change but I'll report back.

 

[alldodge]

Okay I'll go back tomorrow and do that. I'll run a long 2x4 that goes across the engine bay and place it on top of the gunnels. Then measure down from there. I already know where the water line is now so I guess I can do this while the boat is on the trailer. I don't think my measurements will change but I'll report back.

Agree, trailer will work