New Engine - No spark

[drew_caplan]

So, after weeks of rebuilding my engine, new long block, everything back in, it won't fire lol.
I have double checked all my wires, get 12v to the fuel pump. I am going to pull the main lead from the distributor tonight to see if I am getting power there. I have also checked the safety, all looks good there. Tried putting fuel right in the carb, no fire, makes me think it is spark.

More to come shortly and any thoughts while I am testing this out tonight would be appreciated.

 

[ESGWheel]

Tried putting fuel right in the distributor, no fire, makes me think it is spark.

With your experience I know this is a typo

Please post what year, engine model you are working on.

Also, as I am sure you are aware these engines need 3 essentials things to run: fuel, spark, and compression. It’s always good to think in these basic terms because any one of them can cause it not to run. With a rebuild its possible to have set the cam wrong, so suggest checking the compression as a first step (or know you have it with the sound the engine makes when turning over). From there as you suspect > spark. Not knowing the model, not sure you can power the + side of the coil directly eliminating any safety switches. And once compression and spark validated, fuel.

 

[drew_caplan]

Definitely a typo lol.

This long block came from Atlantic Marine and is supposed to be fully setup with timing, cam, etc but good call on the checking it.

This is a 2000 4.3 Volvo Penta (i.e Chevy Vortex). I will report back on the spark tonight!

 

[drew_caplan]

Alright, so we checked spark all around which is good. I added a little bit of fuel to the carb, it turns over but backfires which tells me the timing is right off. I am going to take it to the shop to get timed properly, I think that is the best thing for my sanity. I would love to learn how to time it, but that seems like a little bit of a learning curve. Number 1 is top dead centre and the rotor was pointing at number 1.

Weird thing happened during all of this though. I couldn't hear the fuel pump kicking on. All of a sudden the starter wouldn't engage but I could hear the fuel pump running. It is almost like the fuel pump wont run during starting but when the starter wasn't engaging the fuel pump wasn't running. Weird right?

 

[ESGWheel]

Weird thing happened during all of this though....

Not necessarily. While I am not familiar with your set up, there is generally a circuit to power the pump when the key is the “Start” position and another ckt to power it in the “Run” position. Same for power to the coil. In other words your timing could be ok but you have another issues with the circuits.

Also, what model of a 2000 4.3? (would be something like “GL”)

I get the sanity part but suggest getting others involved that will know more for one more shot.

@Scott Danforth > apologies for the call out but looking for some help here. Thanks.

 

[drew_caplan]

Not necessarily. While I am not familiar with your set up, there is generally a circuit to power the pump when the key is the “Start” position and another ckt to power it in the “Run” position. Same for power to the coil. In other words your timing could be ok but you have another issues with the circuits.

Also, what model of a 2000 4.3? (would be something like “GL”)

I get the sanity part but suggest getting others involved that will know more for one more shot.

@Scott Danforth > apologies for the call out but looking for some help here. Thanks.

It is a GL, Carb 4.3 Volvo Penta.

So would you say the backfire when I got it running with fuel in the carb might not be a timing issue? I would rather not take it anywhere, I am pretty proud of the fact that I pulled the outdrive, pulled the engine, drove 9 hours to get a beautiful long block, rebuilt it (new long long block and new intake), properly torqued every bolt, learned a crap load, got it back in the boat, aligned the engine (p.s. it was spot on since I didn't touch the alignment on the engine mounts) and it turned over the first shot.

Okay, so we can forgive the one plug in the intake I missed and turned the boat into a bathtub temporarily and the fact it wont fire. Oh, and the fact that after 20 years winterizing boats I pooched last year hence why we are here in the first place.

 

[ESGWheel]

Drew, I ended up reading your post #6 as I was heading to bed last night and it had me smiling for the next hour. Yours is one of my favorite posts yet. And I mean this in a good way > you should be proud of your accomplishments and what you have learned. And I love the humility. We all make mistakes and that is how we learn. IMO, your post embodies the core essence of this forum > willing to take it on, willing to learn, willing to make mistakes and willing to put it out there.

You are now at the 2-yard line and I know you can get it across. Three years from now you will be telling stories of how you overcame the challenges.

So, what I am saying is all the elements seem to be solid (new motor, etc.) and there is just one minor issue that needs to be teased out. There are a lot more folks out there with vast more experience than I have that I hope will chime in, so hang in there a little longer.

 

[drew_caplan]

Thanks for the encouragement and I am glad you were able to sleep well thinking of me, the countless hours in the driveway and my poor hands, my poor poor hands. Whoever designed the placement of bell housing engine mount bolts can suck it. Also, why choose to put ground wires at the back of the engine? I feel like that could have been better thought out. On the flip side I know own a gamble alignment tool that is beautifully machined and doubles as a weapon.

Here is my plan for later today:

1. Trace and double check my wires.
2. Put the intake plug things in the threaded hole in my intake that converts outside the boat water to inside the boat water currently.
3. Zip tie all my wires up.
4. Check the fire extinguisher, the small fire in my intake when it back fired reminded me to double check this.
5. Ensure #1 is at TDS and check my distributor alignment.
6. Install the new cap and rotor.
7. Double check all wires are going to the correct plug.
8. Pray to the boat gods and report back a beautiful video of the engine running.
9. Drink a Canadian beer knowing I saved myself 100k not buying a new boat and watching my kids learn to kneeboard for the balance of the season.

 

[muc]

#5. Make sure it’s TDC on compression stroke. Not the other TDC.

 

[BRICH1260]

Make sure that when you dropped the distributor in that the teeth align exactly where they need to be, very easy to miss it by a few teeth. Also, make sure your #1 is at TDC compression stroke. Use a pressure gage to confirm. Make sure all sensors that feed the ECM are plugged in and are working.

 

[cyclops222]

On the wrong TDC timing point ?
Caution about replacement blocks. Does it have the EXACT same camshaft valve timing in it ? If not ? You may need taller exhaust manifold risers.

 

[Bt Doctur]

#1 atTDC compression, slowly turn motor to align the timing mark on balancer with the "0" on the timing tab or notch . Install rotor facing #1 in the cap. Install dist ,if not fully seated turn oil pump shaft slightly until it does sit flush with manifold. Plug wires are clockwise from #1 in this order 1,6,5,4,3,2

 

[drew_caplan]

Thank you for everyone's help. With the information above I was able to ensure #1 was TDS and I was off by one tooth with the distributor. I had a friend with a timing light and we timed it up perfect and it is purring now. I am still having a fuel pump/starter electrical issue which I am still working on.

Thank you everyone for your help!