Need Help with Ignition

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Jun 11, 2023
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I have a new (and first ever) project motor: 1996 Evinrude 8hp. Tested the ignition and have a lot of questions. First, I checked for spark and only had spark on one cylinder, so I began testing the plugs and wires. Both plugs were good because when I swapped them, they sparked. One of the wires was good but the other was difficult to get an ohm reading on (had to wiggle it to get a reading) so I think it might be bad.

The coil seems ok. It has some cracks in the insulating material in the back but the ohm readings seemed good. Both output readings (from coil to plug) were 285 and 287, respectively. Both primary ohm readings were close to zero. (please see pics of coil).

I have questions about what I think is the stator and trigger (I actually have no idea, what these parts are, though). They are both under the fly wheel. I tested what I think is the trigger and the ohm reading was good (39.5 ohms). In the picture, it is the orange unit on the left connected to the white/black and black/white wires. The unit on the right with the black rectangle and green bracket was connected by a brown wire and a brown wire with a yellow stripe. The ohm reading on this was 860, which is out of spec (I think it is supposed to be between 400-600). Is this part actually the stator for this motor? I looked online for a replacement part and it looks nothing like the one I have. Also, would it being out of spec cause problems with the spark. Both wires black/white, brown/yellow ran to a 5-pin plug and then to what I believe is the power pack. The extra pin held a black wire that looked like it ran into the throttle. It was also grounded. Is this the kill switch?

Please chime in. I have absolutely no idea what I am doing and am waiting for the manual to be delivered. Any help is appreciated.
 

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racerone

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There is 1 charge coil and it fires both plugs.----There is one sensor coil and it fires both plugs.----Sounds like there is nothing wrong under the flywheel.
 
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There is 1 charge coil and it fires both plugs.----There is one sensor coil and it fires both plugs.----Sounds like there is nothing wrong under the flywheel.
racerone, thanks for the reply. I apologize for my questions in advance. Is the piece with the green “bracket” the charger and the orange piece the sensor? How do I determine if they are good?
 

racerone

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On other simple words.----If charge coil was bad there would be no spark on #1 or #2.----If sensor was bad there would be no spark on #1 or #2
 

oldboat1

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Use this tool or similar for testing: xLIS50850_1200Wx1200H.jpg.pagespeed.ic.DpYWD8n9Ep.jpg
Set for 3/8" (plugs removed) -- tests strength of ignition, which includes the parts on the flywheel. Look for a strong, hot spark.
 

racerone

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Swap wires from powerpack to the coils and test to see if it is a bad coil.----And 9 out of 10 times a new powerpack is the fix.
 
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Swap wires from powerpack to the coils and test to see if it is a bad coil.----And 9 out of 10 times a new powerpack is the fix.
Racerone, thanks for all your help. I will try that tool tomorrow. I attempted to start both engines today and it seems like they both want to start. I’m bery encoirages, especially if I could solve the situation by replacing a power pack vs tearing the entire engine apart. I’ll keep you posted. Again, I sincerely appreciate the help!
 
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Racerone, thanks for all your help. I will try that tool tomorrow. I attempted to start both engines today and it seems like they both want to start. I’m bery encoirages, especially if I could solve the situation by replacing a power pack vs tearing the entire engine apart. I’ll keep you posted. Again, I sincerely appreciate the help!
Got the 6hp started!!! It would only start when I used starter fluid and had the throttle and choke wide open. Not perfect, but it’s a start. I think I’ll pull and clean the carbs next because they have been sitting outside in the weather for two years. I’ve included a video. Any suggestions about what the next trouble shooting step should be is appreciated.

Also, it did not pee, so I will look into replacing the impeller and/or water pump.
View attachment IMG_1735.MOV
 

racerone

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Choke must be closed to start a motor.-----Water must be 6 or 8" above the impeller when testing in a bucket.----Sound like it is not in your case.
 
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Choke must be closed to start a motor.-----Water must be 6 or 8" above the impeller when testing in a bucket.----Sound like it is not in your case.
Thanks, I'll rig something to make it sit deeper in the water. I took the carburetor off and found the rubber gasket was melted into the carb itself. What a disaster! I'm removing what I can with qt-tips, carb cleaner and rubbing alcohol. Can you suggest something I can soak it in to dissolve the rubber?
 
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Choke must be closed to start a motor.-----Water must be 6 or 8" above the impeller when testing in a bucket.----Sound like it is not in your case.
Here's the pics of the carb. I think I melted the rubber gasket with starting fluid?
 

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Or a repair kit from the ----hooflungdung-----Was used.----Stick with factory quality parts.
I cleaned the carburetor and it looks good and ordered the repair kit. Took the lower off and discovered that the impeller fins were broken off. Ordered that too. I’m hoping to get this engine running by next week
 

racerone

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Many folks are not aware that outboards need a new impeller about every 5 years.----If it overheated , a compression test is a good idea.----Post the numbers here.
 
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Many folks are not aware that outboards need a new impeller about every 5 years.----If it overheated , a compression test is a good idea.----Post the numbers here.
I finally got ahold of a good compression gauge. The 9hp read 65psi upper and 60psi on the lower. The 60hp measured 90psi upper, 85psi middle and 85psi on the lower.
 
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The 6hp seems to run well but does not idle when the throttle is turned down all the way. Anyone have tips for idle adjistment and/or other advice? I think i’m close to getting it figured out.
 

racerone

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A 3 cylinder 60 HP with those compression values needs work.-----Model # is ??----I would take head off to inspect cylinder walls.
 
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I keep messing with all three screws on the carb but still can’t get it to idle. Is there a factory setting where I can start from zero and set it, or is it an individual motor thing?
 
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