Need help 1989 100hp johnson GT100

[duffg130]

Did you do the continuity test on the ignition cutoff for ground with multimeter as I suggested to check your ignition switch?

You might have a bad ground and the switch isn't the issue.

Sorry for the delayed response. Busy week and haven't has time to touch the motor. I will run the continuity test later today. I appreciate your help. I'll keep you posted.

 

[duffg130]

Did you do the continuity test on the ignition cutoff for ground with multimeter as I suggested to check your ignition switch?

You might have a bad ground and the switch isn't the issue.

Thanks again for the advice. I ran the tests.

With the key ON and engine off I get a reading of .01 on the wire harness kill switch (black and yellow wire).

I get no reading from the black and yellow wire on the power pack.

With the engine running, I grounded an insulated probe and touched it to the black/yellow wire from the ground pack and the engine shuts off.

Where do I go from here? I thought about running a wire from the switch (where the black and yellow wire is) to the black/yellow on the power pack. Just not sure if that's the right move. Thanks

 

[havoc_squad]

Thanks again for the advice. I ran the tests.

With the key ON and engine off I get a reading of .01 on the wire harness kill switch (black and yellow wire).

I get no reading from the black and yellow wire on the power pack.

With the engine running, I grounded an insulated probe and touched it to the black/yellow wire from the ground pack and the engine shuts off.

Where do I go from here? I thought about running a wire from the switch (where the black and yellow wire is) to the black/yellow on the power pack. Just not sure if that's the right move. Thanks

0.01 volts is certainly within the margin of error of the multimeter for no voltage.

I don't think you get what I've been asking several times involving continuity test. With the multimeter doing a continuity test (NOT a voltage test) with the ignition key off, do you have continuity with ground of the black/yellow striped wire connector when unplugged that goes to the power pack or do you not? Need a simple yes or no answer.

If the answer is no continuity, disconnect the outboard harness connector and test the pin for the kill circuit for continuity with the black/yellow kill connector to the power pack.

If it fails here, you have an issue with your outboard wiring harness.

If you do have continuity, move up your testing to the ignition switch. I STRONGLY recommend you disconnect battery power at this point. Find the kill circuit on the switch and ground, set ignition key to off and check to see if you have continuity between the ground on the switch and the black/yellow post on the key switch.

If the switch passes, you need to find the issue with your boat wiring harness kill switch wire.

If the switch fails, its the switch.

 

[duffg130]

0.01 volts is certainly within the margin of error of the multimeter for no voltage.

I don't think you get what I've been asking several times involving continuity test. With the multimeter doing a continuity test (NOT a voltage test) with the ignition key off, do you have continuity with ground of the black/yellow striped wire connector when unplugged that goes to the power pack or do you not? Need a simple yes or no answer.

If the answer is no continuity, disconnect the outboard harness connector and test the pin for the kill circuit for continuity with the black/yellow kill connector to the power pack.

If it fails here, you have an issue with your outboard wiring harness.

If you do have continuity, move up your testing to the ignition switch. I STRONGLY recommend you disconnect battery power at this point. Find the kill circuit on the switch and ground, set ignition key to off and check to see if you have continuity between the ground on the switch and the black/yellow post on the key switch.

If the switch passes, you need to find the issue with your boat wiring harness kill switch wire.

If the switch fails, its the switch.

Thank you for you patience with my lack of knowledge. I did the tests. I do not have continuity to the black/yellow connector that goes the the power pack. I disconnected the wire harness and I also do not have continuity from there to the black/yellow wire on the power pack. So based on that, its the wiring harness. Do I have to replace wire harness or can I cut the black/wire before the wire harness and connect it to the power pack black/yellow wire? Thanks again for all your help, and patience.

 

[havoc_squad]

Thank you for you patience with my lack of knowledge. I did the tests. I do not have continuity to the black/yellow connector that goes the the power pack. I disconnected the wire harness and I also do not have continuity from there to the black/yellow wire on the power pack. So based on that, its the wiring harness. Do I have to replace wire harness or can I cut the black/wire before the wire harness and connect it to the power pack black/yellow wire? Thanks again for all your help, and patience.

I recommend probing with multimeter tip into the wire into the black/yellow kill switch wire as close as you can to the wire harness red plug doing a continuity test on the kill circuit wire. Then work backwards from the red plug pin on continuity test until the continuity fails.

That will tell you if you need to buy a replacement harness or if you just need to replace a section of the wire that is damaged. If it fails right next to the plug, you're probably better off getting a new harness. Better make 100% sure you tested the right plug tip for continuity on the kill circuit wire from that pin to the power pack kill circuit connector.

 

[RBoyd1971]

Unhook the black and yellow wire from the powerpack and with the motor harness plugged in like normal and the key off, check for continuity to the motor ground. Stated another way, put the meter either on ohms or continuity where it beeps, and with the key off, touch one wire from the meter to the black and yellow wire that goes into the boat and towards the key and the other on the ground where it's bolted to the motor block. If there is no continuity with the key off on that wire to the block then that's the problem. To further narrow it down, simply unplug the wiring harness and check for continuity from the pin in the harness plug for the kill wire to the end that connects to the power pack. If no continuity there, them there's a problem. If that's good, in the plug on the boat side, check the pin in the harness plug for the kill wire for continuity with the pin for the ground with the key off to see if it's on the boat side.

 

[duffg130]

I recommend probing with multimeter tip into the wire into the black/yellow kill switch wire as close as you can to the wire harness red plug doing a continuity test on the kill circuit wire. Then work backwards from the red plug pin on continuity test until the continuity fails.

That will tell you if you need to buy a replacement harness or if you just need to replace a section of the wire that is damaged. If it fails right next to the plug, you're probably better off getting a new harness. Better make 100% sure you tested the right plug tip for continuity on the kill circuit wire from that pin to the power pack kill circuit connector.

Ok. I have continuity in the red pin connector of the wire harness to the power pack black/yellow. I looked up the wiring diagram. I'm positive I tested the correct one. I don't have continuity between the male and female connectors for the black/yellow wire.

 

[duffg130]

Unhook the black and yellow wire from the powerpack and with the motor harness plugged in like normal and the key off, check for continuity to the motor ground. Stated another way, put the meter either on ohms or continuity where it beeps, and with the key off, touch one wire from the meter to the black and yellow wire that goes into the boat and towards the key and the other on the ground where it's bolted to the motor block. If there is no continuity with the key off on that wire to the block then that's the problem. To further narrow it down, simply unplug the wiring harness and check for continuity from the pin in the harness plug for the kill wire to the end that connects to the power pack. If no continuity there, them there's a problem. If that's good, in the plug on the boat side, check the pin in the harness plug for the kill wire for continuity with the pin for the ground with the key off to see if it's on the boat side.

I have continuity in all those tests except for when I touch the pin in the harness for the kill wire to the plug in the harness for the kill wire.

 

[duffg130]

Ok. I have continuity in the red pin connector of the wire harness to the power pack black/yellow. I looked up the wiring diagram. I'm positive I tested the correct one. I don't have continuity between the male and female connectors for the black/yellow wire.

I ended up blowing the fuse while looking for the black and yellow wire. So I'm on hold until I replace that. Hopefully tomorrow. According to the wire diagram I found, this is my black/yellow wire.

 

[duffg130]

Unhook the black and yellow wire from the powerpack and with the motor harness plugged in like normal and the key off, check for continuity to the motor ground. Stated another way, put the meter either on ohms or continuity where it beeps, and with the key off, touch one wire from the meter to the black and yellow wire that goes into the boat and towards the key and the other on the ground where it's bolted to the motor block. If there is no continuity with the key off on that wire to the block then that's the problem. To further narrow it down, simply unplug the wiring harness and check for continuity from the pin in the harness plug for the kill wire to the end that connects to the power pack. If no continuity there, them there's a problem. If that's good, in the plug on the boat side, check the pin in the harness plug for the kill wire for continuity with the pin for the ground with the key off to see if it's on the boat side.

When I replaced the power pack then stator the motor fired up and turned off with the key. What could have happened that now it won't turn off? I can't help but think I knocked something loose.