Need advice on bilge, foam and epoxy

[grb121549]

Bought a 1984 Baretta Runabout, got it home, found water in bilge, checked the stringers, and they were rotton. Also an area in front of the inboard/outboard engine. Also, nasty carpet in bilge. Now, here is my plan: Cut away the nasty carpet in the bilge. Let bilge dry. I want to pour epoxy in drill holes in the stringers and in front of engine area (after weeks of drying) BUT it would just run out of the rotton wood. So I want to foam the boat so the epoxy won't have anywhere to go. (Want to cut holes between stringers and pour foam). BUT don't know how to keep bilge area from getting filled up UNLESS I build some contraption and slide it in the bilge before foaming. (A foam salesman said use garbage bags over the contraption {like an upside down u shape} because foam won't stick to it and it will be easy to pull out.) After that, I'll pour in the epoxy and it won't have anywhere to go, so it should harden. Does this sound right? Been on internet. My first boat. Thanks.

 

[jbcurt00]

If I understand your 'plan', it isnt sound and if anything is likely to result in a worse situation: the false belief that its repaired and safe. IMO, it would be neither.

Follow the methods shown here
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...lamingo-splashed-w-pics?p=5550980#post5550980

To replace the stringers and motor mounts, deck and transom as necessary

 

[DeepBlue2010]

As jb said, this is not a "fix" and it a band aid on an infected wound. The boat will not be safe or seaworthy. Do it right or not at all.

 

[tpenfield]

Nothing of what you described sounds right. Although you will have the option of using more Hi-tech materials for your repair, you will still need to cut all the bad stuff out and then some. Epoxy fixes work well when there is a very isolated issue, like deck core delamination, but don't work well with a more broad-based issue, such as 'boat rot'.

 

[Scott Danforth]

welcome aboard.

your method wont work. there are no shortcuts to a safe boat, and attempting to pour epoxy into rotten wood (that will never dry out even in years) is simply never going to work.

do some reading first

here is the sticky http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

read links 14, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b.

now re-read link 14, watch the videos, etc. Jay has more vids on youtube.

now proceed with boat repair.

your boat is built with poly, no need for expensive epoxy

a restoration of your hull will cost you about $2k - $2500 for materials and incidentals (Assuming you already have tools, etc) and about 200 hours of work. if you need interior work or anything else, the price goes up. so if you only paid a few hundred dollars for the boat, stop now. scrap the boat, salvage what you can sell and buy a boat that needs less work. (all boats under $5000 need work)


step 1 - find a place you can work on the hard
step 2 - get boat to that place - call boat movers, rent a trailer, buy a trailer, etc.
step 3 - remove the interior from the cockpit and aft area
step 4 - remove the drive
step 5 - remove the motor (either build a wooden gantry if the boat is on a trailer or hire a truck crane)
step 6 - document the engine compartment with pictures, sketches, measurements, etc
step 7 - clean out engine compartment
step 8 - remove the rub rail
step 9 - remove the cap
step 10 - buy the proper PPE (see link in DIY sticky)
step 11 - fire up the saw and remove the floor
step 12 - breath, its all going to work out
step 13 - document everything under the floor with pictures, sketches, measurements, etc
step 14 - remove fuel tank, water logged foam, etc.
step 15 - remove rotten stringers and bulkheads
step 16 - grind, grind, grind, grind and grind some more getting the hull ready for new stringers and bulkheads. when you think you ground enough, grind for a few hours more
step 17 - fire up the circular saw and make new bulkheads, stringers, mounts, etc.
step 18 - bed in all the stuff you just made
step 19 - tab in all the stuff
step 20 - replace everything that will be under the floor
step 21 - foam as required
step 22 - redeck as required
step 23 - breath
step 24 - gel coat all your work
step 25 - add in all the other stuff in the bilge area
step 26 - replace the shift cable (trust me, you will need a new one anyway)
step 27 - install the motor
step 28 - align the motor
step 29 - replace the drive
step 30 - replace the interior
step 31 - get boat back in the water
step 32 - enjoy boat.

 

[gsxrdan]

scott ^ that should be a sticky!!

good luck with it grb, its doable and worthwhile.

 

[Vintage Rider]

I too bought a mid-eighties Baratta. Mine had a "new" floor (1/2 inch pressure-treated ply nicely covered with carpeting). After having a hand-sized piece of the transom break off without much effort I decided to remove the floor and found exactly what you described, everything was rotten.

You would be wise to heed the advice you've already been given. Either fix it right or don't take in into water any deeper than you can wade through to get ashore. The bad news is that Baratta's are cheaply-built boats. If you like its looks and plan to keep it for a few years, fix it right and enjoy. If not, the engine and outdrive was not built by Baratta and can be fairly easily relocated into another boat. There are a lot of them cheaply available with bad engines and/or outdrives. There will be even more in the Spring. If you decide to go that route be sure to read some restoration threads here so you know what to look for and what will be necessary to fix the flaws. There will be flaws. Either way, good luck and be sure to post pics. We love pics.

 

[grb121549]

Thanks to everyone for all the advice. Obviously, I need to rethink this. The boat and trailer cost less than $2000, and the i/o motor is in good shape, doesn't need work, so I will probably look for another boat to pair the engine with. Thanks again!

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Your call of course but keep in mind that most boats in this vintage will have similar issues more or less. and if you go newer you will break the wallet.

If you roll up your sleeves and get this one done, you will have a boat that last another generation. But, I understand that the restoration route is not feasible for everyone.

 

[Scott Danforth]

You will be hard pressed to find a rot free hull needing a motor for cheap. However come spring time there will be many available from improper winterization.

All boats under $5000 have some sort of issue that needs attention. If it's a fiberglass boat, it's mostly rotten stringers and transom.

Boating isn't cheap.

Good luck on whatever you decide

 

[mxcobra]

I'm sorry you got a rotten boat sooo. You better man up and fix it!! bust out another thousand B.O.A.T

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I'll agree with Scott for sure. Anything under 5k is gonna have issues of varying degree. Lots of threads in the restoration forum, (including mine) to peruse. If you like the type of boat you have and the motor is solid dig in and git er dun. Lots of good folks here to help you along the way. Good luck!