More Time Than Money

Jeff-n-Gail

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Aug 10, 2016
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Most prefer vinyl, like Nautolex, over carpet because carpet stays wet.....

Where will you store the boat when not in use? In a garage, under a carport?

Or in the driveway under a boat cover?
I will have it on the lift, we live on Shawano Lake in Wisconsin. Will be setting up the lift so I'll get good drainage to aid in drying. Not sure if I'll put a cover on it or just a lift canopy.
 

Jeff-n-Gail

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Aug 10, 2016
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With a floor like that if you drop your beer you know its gonna roll to the middle where you can reach it, looks cool but how would you seal it before installing without it cracking?
Good point, makes me feel better about not sealing it on the bottom side.
 

Jeff-n-Gail

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After reading through your thread, I was wondering if you thought about installing a level floor before you installed the arched floor. It would have given you a nice stable walking area and even allowed flotation below the floor. You could have installed some aluminum cross ribs/supports and then riveted the floor to that for a straight level flooring. I realize that is water under the bridge now, but was just wondering. I will say your work looks pretty good though. I wish you would have posted on here before doing anything. The fact that the underside of the floor isn't sealed with anything may be an issue you will see again. :noidea:
I also wish I would have posted more and asked more but I'm not in any hurry so I haven't minded thinking thru PRYOR to doing most things. I went with the round floor design because I'm not a little guy and I liked the idea of more leg room. Permanent Vacations posts were quite helpful as I was getting started. I went with the seat boxes so I wouldnt have to step over a bench to get to the back.I did make the boxes o they are also storage area's even though not very big. The boat has a1" high ribs every 10 inches so I fitted 1" rigid insulation between the ribs and covered the floor with thick poly to stop the squeaking noise I was told would happen. I will also put foam in the raised area in the bow. This boat also has a large foam block mounted to the ceiling area up front.
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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I will have it on the lift, we live on Shawano Lake in Wisconsin. Will be setting up the lift so I'll get good drainage to aid in drying. Not sure if I'll put a cover on it or just a lift canopy.

High and dry should be good then ^^^

Just for future reference, I suspect the main sealing choices (epoxy, Old Timers or spar) would remain plyable enough to take the gentle curve of the hull bottom. But whats done is done, and being up on a lift and covered, will help keep it dry, even w carpet.
 

Jeff-n-Gail

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Aug 10, 2016
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99
I'm presently polishing my aluminum on the boat that is exposed and it looks quite nice when its all shine up. My question is, will spraying automotive clear coat last or should I be looking at other options. I polished a couple of pieces and cleared them and they look nice. I just don't want to have to redo this next year.
 

jbcurt00

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Shark Hide has been used numerous times to keep bright work bright.


I wouldnt clear them, clear doesnt seem to hold up very often. 2stage or what clear?
 

ondarvr

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Apr 6, 2005
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Aluminum doesn't like to stay shiny, Shark Hide works well, but needs to be re-applied frequently for it to hold up.
 
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jbcurt00

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Yep ^^^ I havent had too yet, but eventually will. Less often then I'd have to wax and polish though.

And I dont think it water spots like bare alumimum will if not towelled off regularly.
 

Jeff-n-Gail

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Aug 10, 2016
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Shark Hide has been used numerous times to keep bright work bright.


I wouldnt clear them, clear doesnt seem to hold up very often. 2stage or what clear?
It's a 1 stage clear that comes as aerosol. Its an automotive paint clear coat and autos sit outside in all kinds of different weather conditions. It just seems like would work great if I find a product the doesnt appear to yellow the shine.
 

ondarvr

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Paints that come in rattle cans aren't typically high quality products. And a clear that's designed for use over paint isn't the same as one designed to be used on bare aluminum.
 

MILKWEED

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Oct 7, 2016
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Shawano Lake huh, if our house in Cecil doesnt sell this year I might see you out there some weekend. Post some pics when you get her done so I can keep an eye out for you. As far as aluminum polish and sealer goes you might try some of the stuff truckers use on aluminum to keep it shiny, I used some stuff called Metal Gloss Polish and Metal Gloss Sealer for the shiny stuff on a Peterbilt that held up well, but I haven't seen it anymore locally. Raw aluminum looks nice when shiny but it is a job keeping it that way. There was a product called something like One-Coat that you brush on thin that was made to seal raw aluminum after polishing also.
 

Patfromny

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Dec 2, 2012
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Aluminum doesn't like to stay shiny, Shark Hide works well, but needs to be re-applied frequently for it to hold up.

I am thinking of using shark hide on all my shiny stuff. How often do you need to apply the stuff? My brother might use it on his pontoons depending on what my finished product looks like so at least a season would be preferable.
 

Watermann

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Jan 12, 2013
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I don't think painting directly on aluminum with any sort of paint will stay adhered to aluminum without there first being some primer work with self etching or zinc chromate. Especially polished aluminum.
 

Patfromny

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I don't think painting directly on aluminum with any sort of paint will stay adhered to aluminum without there first being some primer work with self etching or zinc chromate. Especially polished aluminum.

I agree with Watermann. I think the clear will eventually start to peel and flake off the aluminium. I would recommend the shark hide but I haven't used it yet. To clean and shine mine I used fine grit wet paper and then mag wheel Polish. I then went over that with marine aeronautical wax and it lasted the season without any change. I think some sort of maintenence finish like a Polish is the way to go rather than a more permanent finish like a clear. A Polish won't fail and can be reapplied with much less work than a clear. Once the clear fails, you are looking at a total strip and reapplication. Something I would never want to do on odd shaped or round pieces. Doesn't sound like much fun.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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I TOTALLY agree. Clear coat and aluminum would NOT be a good marriage!!!
 

Jeff-n-Gail

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Aug 10, 2016
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99
I think I found a solution to my dash problem. By design theres not much room for a thick dash material without major modification so I got out my roll of aluminum flashing I have been saving for when I need it. After a couple cuts, an angle bend and a little quality time with my drill and a polishing ball it's ready for a couple coats of clear. I made a pattern of the dash that fits perfect so after the clear is good and dry I'll cut and test fit it.
 

Jeff-n-Gail

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Aug 10, 2016
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Patfromny

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Dec 2, 2012
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Very cool. Love the engine turn(ed)? Look. That must have taken some patience getting them to look straight and symmetrical. Nice job
 

BigDfromTN

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May 16, 2013
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I'm presently polishing my aluminum on the boat that is exposed and it looks quite nice when its all shine up. My question is, will spraying automotive clear coat last or should I be looking at other options. I polished a couple of pieces and cleared them and they look nice. I just don't want to have to redo this next year.

I recently sold a pontoon that was really nasty when I bought it. I cleaned the toons with mag wheel cleaner and then sealed them with Zeps Wet look Floor Finish. Its available at Lowes and several other places. I put 4 real thin coats allowing try dry between them. It lasted for the 3 years I owned the boat and made cleanup of the water line simple. Toons did not re oxidize and it held up pretty well to beaching the boat on sand islands on a weekly basis. I applied it with a microfiber towel. Just put the zeps in a shallow pan (I used a paint roller pan) and apply thin coats. IF any runs wipe them out before it dries. It any bubble areas rewipe until smooth. Worked really good on pontoon aluminum and also on the RV siding we had.
 
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