Milky oil

Lou C

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Most of the rocker arm studs you can buy aftermarket like ARP, etc are designed for the adjustable style, I am guessing that for performance builds people want the adjustable feature. So if you wanted the rocker arm studs for the non-adjustable style you might need to go with OEM.
The later Vortecs that have the roller rocker bearings, have a totally different style, there is a bolt that goes through the roller rocker assembly to retain the whole works, no stud like the earlier styles.
 

SeaRayboater95

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Hey People, just wondering if there is an up or down When placing this gasket on the block. The only marking is Marine on one side. Both sides are not the same.

Thanks,

Ken
 

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Lou C

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I used Fel Pro on mine, trying to remember from when I did it like 9 years ago...both cylinder heads are actually the same casting. Try it both ways, see if it fits better one way vs the other. Does it seem to line up better with the Marine label showing?
Also before you bolt up those heads, make sure the cyl head bolt threads are CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN and that the bolts all thread all the way in!
 

SeaRayboater95

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Hey Guys and Gals. Got her back together and running Ning nicely. Not sure where to put the timing mark..

Ken
 

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Lou C

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Congrats! Looks like you got it set to TDC or zero, I set mine at 6*BTDC using 89 octane gas; not sure if Merc used a different setting than OMC.
 

SeaRayboater95

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Congrats! Looks like you got it set to TDC or zero, I set mine at 6*BTDC using 89 octane gas; not sure if Merc used a different setting than OMC.
Thanks. There's no marks on that tab. Which way do I go and how far? Is each notch a degree? Do I have to be in the water to set it.
 

Lou C

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Chevy timing marks.jpg
Chevy timing marks.jpg
the bottom pic makes it more clear...the distributor has to be in timing mode and engine idling @ about 600 rpm, warmed up, can do it on the water hose...you're setting it at before top dead center @ whatever degrees Merc specifies in the manual.
 
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Lou C

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Maybe that step is only needed with the Delco EST, I still have a points distributor, so I still do it the old way!
If you have an advance timing light, it’s a good idea to check the total timing advance as well. Merc probably has a graph showing how much advance at what RPM in the manual.
I've had this one for about oh, 45 years or so!
Old school tune up.jpg
 
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SeaRayboater95

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Thanks. I noticed that too. Shows 14.3 on the battery and same on back of alternator. My boat does that also. Not sure why. Faulty gauge maybe?

Ken
 

Lou C

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The voltage comes to the dashboard wiring via the B terminal on the ignition switch then branches off to the individual gauges, check battery voltage at the B terminal with the ignition on. Is it the same as the gauge or higher like true battery voltage? It could be resistance in the wiring to the gauges or even the red wire feeding the B terminal on the ignition switch. Maybe start with battery terminals & grounds. If the owner wants it fixed that is! It can take time to track it down.
 

Lou C

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I had this & thought the gauge was bad but it wasn’t. There was resistance in the circuit that feeds battery power to the fuse box. I wound up running a supplemental power lead to the fuse box instead of pulling the harness apart.
 

SeaRayboater95

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I had this & thought the gauge was bad but it wasn’t. There was resistance in the circuit that feeds battery power to the fuse box. I wound up running a supplemental power lead to the fuse box instead of pulling the harness apart.
Thanks. I'll get into it in spring. Winterize yesterday and parked. Mine is covered and not thought about any more. Workin'on sleds now.

Ken
 

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