Marine or Auto oil pan

jonny rotten

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
345
Pulling motor due to oil pan rust leak on a 25 year old boat. I thought I read you can use an auto pan and paint 3 times with rustoleum or spray bedliner. Trailering so it's not in salt air 99% of the year. Mercruiser Motor serial# 0l072052. Any help with part number for what I need? Fel pro gasket part number? To make sure I get the right one. Also can I do this hanging on an engine hoist or do I need to pull coupler and flip around on a stand that I'd rather not do if not needed. Thanks
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,064
Part number is shown in ITEM 9, it shows the old and new part number. You can use a regular GM (auto) oil pan but just make sure the dip stick enters pan in same place

The Dealer can verify and most likely NAPA can, not so sure about the young kid and auto what ever ever store, unless the young kid is a white haired guy

No need for triple paint protection, other then it will protect it longer

You could also remove the pan and take it to a welding shop and let them fix it, then repaint

yes you can do it from a hoist, but remember hydraulics can be dangerous. If there are no busted lines or seals all good, but you never know when or if a seal can fail. Could remove, lower to ground, roll over after draining oil pan on it's side
 

jonny rotten

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
345
Part number is shown in ITEM 9, it shows the old and new part number. You can use a regular GM (auto) oil pan but just make sure the dip stick enters pan in same place

The Dealer can verify and most likely NAPA can, not so sure about the young kid and auto what ever ever store, unless the young kid is a white haired guy

No need for triple paint protection, other then it will protect it longer

You could also remove the pan and take it to a welding shop and let them fix it, then repaint

yes you can do it from a hoist, but remember hydraulics can be dangerous. If there are no busted lines or seals all good, but you never know when or if a seal can fail. Could remove, lower to ground, roll over after draining oil pan on it's side
I've seen the Merc # but how do I cross that over to an automotive pan? My concern with doing it on the hoist was gravity working against me with the gasket
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,064
You have a 1998 to 2000 GM vortec 5.7
Search for a 1999 chevy suburban (or other like 1500 silverado) 5.7 oil pan and it will show up. They can be found for under $100
 

jonny rotten

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
345
You have a 1998 to 2000 GM vortec 5.7
Search for a 1999 chevy suburban (or other like 1500 silverado) 5.7 oil pan and it will show up. They can be found for under $100
It's a 1998 5.0.... Is a 5.7 a 5.0 the same pan? I didn't realize just finding a same year 5.0 in an auto pan would work. Thought there might be differences
 

04fxdwgi25

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 25, 2022
Messages
537
Grab an aluminum small block oil pan from Jegs, Summit or ebay. Just verify year (rear main seal type) and where the dipstick enters.

Can use a steel one, but will likely rust again.
 

matt167

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
4,151
A rust belt winter is far harsher than any marine environment unless you get enough water in the bilge to cover the pan and even then it’s not as harsh
 

jonny rotten

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
345
You have a 1998 to 2000 GM vortec 5.7
Search for a 1999 chevy suburban (or other like 1500 silverado) 5.7 oil pan and it will show up. They can be found for under $100
What about baffles to keep the oil from sloshing around? I thought marine pans were different from auto even though they might bolt up the same? Something about a plate not fitting with the auto pan?
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,064
What about baffles to keep the oil from sloshing around? I thought marine pans were different from auto even though they might bolt up the same? Something about a plate not fitting with the auto pan?
same as auto
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,574
remember, these motors area a derivative of the industrial motors and came down the same assembly line as the truck motors. other than core plugs, head gaskets, cam and the circulation pump. it is essentially a truck motor.

some of the marine motors used the larger industrial engine oil pan (full sump). However you should be able to get your replacement pan for about $50 from summit or jegs.
 

rolmops

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
5,424
When you change the oil pan, you have a beautiful opportunity to install a drain setup that will allow you to vacuum pump the oil out when you want to change it. It will save a lot of time and a potential mess in the bilge.
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,674
When you change the oil pan, you have a beautiful opportunity to install a drain setup that will allow you to vacuum pump the oil out when you want to change it. It will save a lot of time and a potential mess in the bilge.

When I had my engine out of the boat, the stupidest thing I did was listen to people who advised against putting a drain hose on the oil pan. Every year when I'm fiddling around with sucking the oil out via the dipstick, I think of how much easier it would be to just pull a hose out of the garboard and drain the engine oil into a container.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,574
after adding my first oil drain kit, that is what I do now for all marine motors. yes, the oil has to be warm. and yes, it takes about a beer or two's worth of time to drain via gravity. however that is when I change the fuel filters and oil filters.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,852
I had the same issue in my 4.3LX. The pan rusted thru, leaking all the oil into the bilge. I had the boat towed to the ramp and put it on the trailer. I then built a "old west-style" hanging scaffold. 2X4s for the legs and a double 2X8 for the beam. Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts, and d/c the wiring and fuel line and pull the block up until it clears the boat hull. I used a $25 cumalong to lift it. Pull the boat out and drop the engine on a stand built of cement blocks and lumber. Now the pan is easy and safe to remove.

I replaced it with a chrome plated pan I found online somewhere.
 
Top