Lund Nisswa Restoration

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Set Backs in boat building production.
My son came down with the Flu, then I got the Flu, so that was basically 4 days gone, simutaneously getting my roof shingled, so of course many trips to the hardware store for more.

Got a bit done on the boat this week.
Floor Board seat base mount plate holes are overdrilled and filled.
Backing Plates for seat bases installed as well.
Forward storage area subfloor cut to fit, triple epoxied to water proof-PL'd in.
Transom Fittings all installed using 5200.

Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Back at it!
Here are some pictures of the forward bulkhead storage areas, the area that is clamped in is the forward deck seat base doubler, this is how I fashioned my attempt to go "screwless" in the boat build.
That PL when used thin is great stuff!

Lund

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Yes, very impressive work. It's almost going to be a shame to cover that up with a deck.

I wonder how many people have pieces of railroad rail in their shops?

Erik

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Hey thanks for the encouragement, this site actually really helps a guy stay motivated, people who have not done a boat build have no idea how many man-hours go into this.
What matters is that it holds together for a long time to come.

Question for you guys.
All of that pretty stuff is going to get ruffed and scuffed and then primered and sprayed with Rhino liner, some areas such as in the storage compartments wont be covered, since it is not exposed to UV-Light much will it be OK to leave it as-is???

Working on the Transom cap today, the new Transom is thicker so I had to fabricate a new Aluminum cap.,

Lund
I use that stupid Railroad all-the-time, best part was I got it for $1.00 at a rummage sale years ago.

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Sure, if it's out of the sun you can just leave it. Personally I should have done that in a couple spots, it would have looked better to show off the wood than to go nuts coating everything

I got my section of rail with my garage... along with a 400lb slab of cast iron that I'm not quite sure what to do with.

Erik

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Upper deck is PL'd and Clamped in.
The Transom cap my welder worked for me turned out great too.
Floor Boards are going in next.

Lund.

Erik, I was hoping to leave the wood look in some hidden away areas, thanks.
How do you even move that heavy chunk of steel?!

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Floor boards are now PL'd in place.
Just a matter of glassing to the hull after a good 48 hours cure time for the PL.
Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Snapping Turtle;
I do not know how much weight the Rhino liner will add, maybe 12lb per gallon. So even 5 gallons only adds 60lbs.
I do know the boat will be lighter than when I started since it was so water logged, all wood was wet and the foam would have never dried, could wring water out of it like a sponge.
I am hoping that the Rhino Sticks good, it sure sticks good in the bed of my pick-up, the key is in the prep, give it something to bite onto.

Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

GregE;
The original livewell hatch was a Tempress Utility hatch, it lasted 22years so I decided to go with the same Brand.
So there will be three smaller hatches and one larger livewell hatch on the upper deck.
I am going to install them after the Rhino is applied, will seal them down with 4200, and of course the screw holes will be filled as well.

The rest of the hatches in the boat for the Rod lockers and aft storage areas are the original wooden hatches that I have refinished.

Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

For some reason a Great sense of accomplishment finally hit me today the minute I slid that center floor board in place. Even though I have a ton of work to do still.

Things have been going well,
- Had the stringers predrilled and filled a long time ago for the center floor board support and they actually fit and aligned.
- Fuel tank support board is glassed in as well.
- Upper deck edges are glassed in too.
- Transom cap is installed and the Cap corners went on good too

Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Fix Buffs, I sure wish I had your engine troubles-that would mean I was done with the rebuild, the amount of time and effort and money and beer is amazing when it comes to doing a complete restore, I had no idea what I was getting myself into, have learned so much from you guys about fiberglass techniques.
One thing I have found sort of neat is all of the wood working I do is from my collection of 1960's Era Delta Rockwell power tools I have collected and restored.
Dont know if I will do this again any time soon but I do see how it can become an obsession, I think if I did do it again my goal would be to get her done with the least amount of money posssible,
unlike my current project which came in over budget..........
And I thought 6 gallons of epoxy was enough-LOL-15 gallons later......

Here are some Pix of my Old tools,
excuse the mess-I seem to be building a Boat.

Thanks, have fun boating, hopefully I will be out there in 3 weeks.
Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Zach, what I did for every piece of wood I put in the boat was.
Sand and Acetone the bare wood.
Bottoms and edges got 3 coats of Epoxy.
Tops got 8 oz fabric, two coats epoxy.
When attaching the pieces to the hull or Transom or whatever I would sand and acetone the area prior to filleting and apply 1708 to the edges.
So thats what I did, took alot of resin and time and cloth.

Lund

 

[drewmitch44]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Just a quick question bud, is this where your gas tank is going to go??? THanks i hope this link works. http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12751&d=1211303400

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

D.M.- Yes that is exactly where the fuel tank goes.

Work stoppage;
Ordered more Epoxy last week, didn't arrive so I called-they forgot to ship-slipped through the cracks, thats really set me back for what I wanted to finish up glassing in, epoxy wont be here until the 27th-28th now.

So I am working on various other odds/ends to keep me busy.

Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Have not given up yet, was on delay for that shipment of Resin.
Got going on Tuesday, glassed the floor to hull and today got one of the sidewalls installed and glassed in.

The upper part of the sidewalls that meets the rod locker was very tricky, made a large round over type fillet, really soaked the 1708 and it wrapped the outside corner quite nicely, there are some small bubbles on the outside radius of the turn that I did not dare mess with any more, but I think it will be OK.

That "STICK" that runs across is just a temp prop to keep the tops wedged together.

One more Side wall to do and I am done glassing, as far as I know.
Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Done Fiberglassing finally! Had the port side walls left to do which I finished at 1AM last nite, This thing evolved into working many nights until 2AM, seems like I would get more done after dark when nothing would distract me.

June 10th get the Rhino Liner sprayed in.

Then all there is to do is install all the removables

Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

The boat is currently being sprayed with Duraliner, will be done in two days.
Meanwhile, I am sort of proud of my new console, wish I had pix of the old for comparison.
Anyway, here it is.

Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Got the boat back today from getting the Duraliner Sprayed on, very happy overall with outcome.
I had always used the Term "Rhino liner" for what I was getting sprayed in but actually what I had sprayed is Duraliner.
I had done my boat trailer over 6 years ago with this stuff and there is not a chip in it, and we all know what rocks do to trailers, so this Duraliner is some tuff stuff, life time guarantee too-since I have had this boat for over 20 years I figure she will go another twenty if I built it right and take care of it maybe my son will get a hand me down.

In the pictures where all the screws are sticking up is holes that I had predrilled and filled, I just put some throw away screws in a few threads deep prior to spraying so I could find the holes again.
Only thing I am not happy with is when I prepped the boat, I should have feathered those 1708 seams better, I thought the thick Duraliner would hide the seams better, but still-very happy with it.
Now a week of assembling interior/installing engine, etc etc.

Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

The Duraliner is a 2 part system, 2:1 ratio, 12 gallons total was used at about 10lb per gallon, this added 120lb's to the boat.

The texture is like a soft rubber floor, very good traction when wet.
No problem with bare feet.

Pretty pricey though, cost me $66.70 per gallon to have the boat final prepped/taped off and sprayed on.

Lund

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Ah, the price of perfection

I'm not a fan of the gray color personally, but then again, the rest of the stuff isn't in the boat yet, so I'll keep any harsher criticism for later in the thread

I might just do that in the glastron myself. How thick is that stuff...thin corrugated carboard thick or construction paper thick?

The color was not by choice, there is a small spectrum of shades they can achieve, some are very bright-yellow-red, of course Black which would be foolish in a sun baked boat, some of the lighter tan colors were not bad but I chose the slate color because it has a bluish hue to it (boat and seats are shades of blue).
Thickness on average is 3/16", some less some areas more so 1/8" to 1/4".
Lund