losing power 84 35 hp j/e

[socketholder]

I just finished replacing half the parts on my motor. including RR carb and fuel pump. replace fuel lines and the tank hose was replace last year also new filter.

and its doing the same thing as it was before. It runs strong about5-10 sec i mean running perfect, then it stall for a sec. If i pull back to 2/3 it seems to run ok, but it i get in it, it does this over and over. tried to let it run trough it to see if it would clear up, it died. restarted it and headed back in.

the only think that im not sure of is the fuel pump. my kit did not come with the springs in it and my carb dont have any in it. the FP is a 1997 and the motor is a 84. The rebuild kit shows 2 springs but i'm not sure if it needed. Im bidding on one on ebay to replace this one and advice?

 

[socketholder]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

What is the special tool needed to remove the high speed orifice? the manual calls it #1 but does not show a pic.

I did not see this when I rebuilt the carb. could this be the reason it feels like its running out of gas?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

clogged high speed jet, it can get fuel going fast. also try pumping the fueline bulb when it starts to die. read this about the carbs. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=244013

i quit rebuilding fuel pumps.

 

[Jugfisher]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

How is your compression?

 

[socketholder]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

(i quit rebuilding fuel pumps.)

why?

the compression was good last year like low 110's

the motor has tons of power, its pushing a 16 flat bottom cajon special.

just acts like its running out of fuel until i back off a lil. i'm going to buy a test gauge and test the fuel pressure. the books show I should have
1 psi at 600,
1.5 at 2500-3000 and
2.5 at 4500.
I just want to rule the pump out before i pull the carb back off. I was thinking of trying to clean the jet with a wire while its still on the motor. was size orifice is the jet on a 35 hp?

 

[socketholder]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

compression was good last test. motor runs go until it has time to empty the carb bowl. or that how it seems to me.

I want to rule the pump out before I pull the carb again. where do I buy a gauge that reads as low as 1 psi range.

or a test kit

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

it is easier, to just pull the carb hose, and make sure it pumps. sounds more like mis-adjusted float needle.

not rebuild, just the hassle of not knowing it is 100% right. if rather spend a few more bucks, and know it is going to get me home.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

Agree with TD. I replace over rebuilding ever time.

 

[socketholder]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

Bought a gauge from sears today, its running up to 3 psi. that is good news. how ever it started to back fire (3 times )the pressure went to 10 until it bleed off.

when i installed the new float i held it upside down and it was level. when the needle set was closed. I will pull the carb and recheck it and grind an old screw drive down to remove the high speed orifice. and clean it...

 

[socketholder]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e



this is the jet, it was clean.
I put the float in upside down..........OMG this is why it run out of gas at WOT.

 

[socketholder]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

The floats in right, and it runs...
will take it back to the lake in the am to see if it gets enough fuel.


TIMING PROBLEM :the manual say the the throttle should just start opening and the roller must be touching the cam > I can't get the throttle to start opening with the cam touching... the roller is already 1/4 inch from the cam.

the motor is bogging down( And was dieing) from idle to WOT, that why I decided to adjust the timing. its better now but not like the book says.

MISFIRING; The motor will misfire but not back fire, its in the exhaust. it only does this on every4th or fifth revolution. because its 2 stroke and 2 cylinder
what would this be?( if it had valves i'd say it firing while the valve was open or After top dead center) because it has no valves do I have a bad ring. the misfire sounds like a sneeze

But this goes away when i increase the RPM and run smooth

I am thinking about buying a new motor, this has been 5 years of one thing after another.

 

[bktheking]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

Misfire sounds like a lean sneeze at idle, did you try adjusting the idle needle at the top? Rotate 1/8 of a turn CounterCW until it stops the sneeze.

 

[socketholder]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

No. i was turning it in (Clockwise)to get the idle down close to 1000 rpm any lower and it dies.

If i back it out want the rpm go up?

should i start looking at coils? or plug wires?

 

[bktheking]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

Turning clockwise will lean the mixture causing it to sneeze, try backing it out till the pop stops. Are you doing your final adjustments in a lake or on muffs, the RPM will lower in the lake vs muffs.

 

[socketholder]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

Thanks for the help.

I did not read your post until I just got back from the lake. the idle was ok today started and ran it wide open, 1/2 and idle in gear every thing was great.after 20 minutesI decide to bring it in and change the tilt on the motor for less drag on the boat and restarted and it went to sneezing and would not get above idle with out dieing, had to idle it back to trailer and home. will idle all day but want run. while on the water I pulled top plug wire and fired it up ran bad but is firing on top cyl. did the same on bottom and it started as well. installed top and bottom and started back and would only idle.... i.m confussed as to why it ran so good for 20 minutes then just go down like it did. it did this last year and has been parked until now

BTW the float is in the right position now...lol.



OK I did what u said but i'm using a hose this time. the idle is 1690-1720 on muffs, but its runs fine , no bogging down and good exceleration with no sneeze. Is this RPM to high? how do i get it down?

 

[bktheking]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

Hate to tell you but if that motor's idle is 1000+ it ain't idling, should be between 700-750 rpm, i'm trusting your rpm numbers here off of a tach and not a guess at the idle. Do you have a manual to setup the linkage and throttle cam adjustment, sounds like it's off. If you don't I can send you some info on how to check it, PM me your email info.

 

[socketholder]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

I have a tach Iuse at work to record the RPM on fire pumps.

Yes , I do have a manual. I use it so much it was falling apart so I scan it to A-Reader,

Tue, I'm going to redo the link and sink.

If the Idle is 700-750 is that in water? what would i expect on muffs?

This motor was a basket case when i got it.so this block could be installed wrong .

Need help under standing this phrase from the manual

(Off set on pivot block must face forward or engine will not retard to idle specs)
is it referring to the block being forward of the connecting pin or the pin being forward of the block.

 

[bktheking]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

Okay, so now i'm going to obsess about the tach in question, what model tach is it??? Wondering if this is a tach that doesn't work on 2 strokes, your reading divided by 2 are what it should idle at. Shifting into gear at that high an rpm would make an aweful clunk you'd think.

 

[socketholder]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

Its an EXTECH laser pointer, I put a reflective tap on a shaft and it counts the turns, I put tape on the flywheel and checked it. it works. at a low idle it read 700 but the motor is sneezing and cutting out.every few revolution

Yes it hit a lil to hard going into gear. I redid all the link settings and will start the motor after work on tue

 

[bktheking]

Re: losing power 84 35 hp j/e

So in the lake it idles at 700RPM but on muffs 16-1700? I've never worked on this motor for a link and sync. Maybe someone else knows what you need to do.

I think once you get

"TIMING PROBLEM :the manual say the the throttle should just start opening and the roller must be touching the cam > I can't get the throttle to start opening with the cam touching... the roller is already 1/4 inch from the cam."

this fixed you'll be on track. Want me to PM you what I have in my manual?
All these adjustments need to be done in a tank or lake, muffs won't work.