live well pump installation and pump questions

[GT1000000]

I used 2 each, 3/4" S x Mips adapters, connected through the hull with a short piece of 3/4" PVC tubing...


First, I used PVC cement to glue one of the adapters to the length of PVC pipe, which I had carefully measured and cut to keep the adapters tight to the the hull, yet have good insertion length...
Then, I applied marine sealant to the opening and the outside of the PVC tube and slid it into the opening...
I wiped off the sealant on the PVC tube that projected inside the hull, making sure the inside of the tube was clean, applied the PVC cement to the other Male adapter and pushed it on tight to the inside of the hull.
After letting that set up for about a week, I screwed on the shut off valve and as of this time, I have only done some test fitting of the pump.
The location and angle of the pump should be in a good position to be able to pull up the water...although I won't know for certain until I actually get this tub in the water...
The shut off valve has the same 3/4" threads as the threaded extension on the pump housing...
And there shouldn't be any flow restriction since all of the internal dimensions of the fittings are basically 3/4"...
Hope that helps...

 

[seanymph85]

Was the shut off valve one you could likely purchase at the box/home improvement stores such as Home Depot, Menards, Rural King? I've purchased similar before but they only had glue in on each end of shut off at the time. My mount would still go through the transom, as the hole is already there, but I believe I have enough room to add a shutoff valve inline with the inlet tube.and still have room to remove and replace the head of the pump if required.

Also did you start with a 3 1/2" length inlet tube and cut and use only the threaded inlet to put this together or did you have to purchase an additional length of threaded inlet tube?

 

[seanymph85]

No Title

I now have the new Attwood aerator pump and am wondering if this live well system should work as expected. In particular relative to the live well overflow when fresh water is pumped into the live well. I notice on iboats etc. that some live wells are hooked up with an overflow and through hull fitting, some may have a recirculating pump on the tank itself, and some may have a riser tube such as mine that also doubles as a drain. Still others may have an overflow that goes via a tube to a pump at the transom end of the boat and I assume out a through hull type fitting below the water line.

Not being familiar with the way these different hook-up options are meant to work, I need to know if the manner in which this one is plumbed if it will work and pump fresh water and in turn oxygen into the tank and not overflow the tank into the boat. I was considering installing an automatic timer with the pump setup I now have. Still I can't help but wonder if the overflow setup is adequate to prevent the overflow of water from the tank into the boat. The picture with the riser tube/drain hooks upv via a short hose to the through hull fitting on one side of the boat.

What I now have was already installed in the boat and access to point of hose hookup from the pump to the tank and from the existing riser pipe/drain and the through hull fitting is very limited.

Any input on this would be appreciated as I am uncertain with the present design of the hook up if it will function fully as it needs to.

 

[GT1000000]

Was the shut off valve one you could likely purchase at the box/home improvement stores such as Home Depot, Menards, Rural King? I've purchased similar before but they only had glue in on each end of shut off at the time. My mount would still go through the transom, as the hole is already there, but I believe I have enough room to add a shutoff valve inline with the inlet tube.and still have room to remove and replace the head of the pump if required.

Also did you start with a 3 1/2" length inlet tube and cut and use only the threaded inlet to put this together or did you have to purchase an additional length of threaded inlet tube?

Yes the shut off valve was one I bought at Lowes with female threads on both ends...

The piece of tubing I used to go through the hull was just a section of PVC tubing cut to length...

Go back to the first picture I posted in this thread, Post #12 and study the arrangement carefully...you will notice the threaded portion that extends from the pump itself is what is threaded into the shut off valve and the shut off valve is in turn threaded to the male threads on the fitting depicted in post #21.

I now have the new Attwood aerator pump and am wondering if this live well system should work as expected. In particular relative to the live well overflow when fresh water is pumped into the live well. I notice on iboats etc. that some live wells are hooked up with an overflow and through hull fitting, some may have a recirculating pump on the tank itself, and some may have a riser tube such as mine that also doubles as a drain. Still others may have an overflow that goes via a tube to a pump at the transom end of the boat and I assume out a through hull type fitting below the water line.

Not being familiar with the way these different hook-up options are meant to work, I need to know if the manner in which this one is plumbed if it will work and pump fresh water and in turn oxygen into the tank and not overflow the tank into the boat. I was considering installing an automatic timer with the pump setup I now have. Still I can't help but wonder if the overflow setup is adequate to prevent the overflow of water from the tank into the boat. The picture with the riser tube/drain hooks upv via a short hose to the through hull fitting on one side of the boat.

What I now have was already installed in the boat and access to point of hose hookup from the pump to the tank and from the existing riser pipe/drain and the through hull fitting is very limited.

Any input on this would be appreciated as I am uncertain with the present design of the hook up if it will function fully as it needs to.

From the looks of the pictures you posted, everything should work as it is supposed to.

 

[seanymph85]

Ok, thanks for looking at this install and the other info. I will look closer at the other post with pictures as suggested. I had especially been concerned about that over flow situation since the through the hull fitting connected to the base of the overflow/drain tube is below the water line and I wasn't sure if it would still drain. When I get it all back together and take it to the lake to check for leaks on the pump and transducer bracket reinstall etc. I can check the function on the live well too.

Given it appears okay from the pictures, I won't worry about it for now then and will see how it works when it is in the water.

 

[seanymph85]

No Title

I picked up a shutoff valve at Menard's today but I'm not sure it is going to work properly. The through hull male/slip adapters you used appeared to thread in tight but okay. However the inlet tube on the pump only threads in a few threads into the valve before getting very tight. I suspect it has tapered female threads and it doesn't have the "nut" shape on the ends for tightening it. It has a blue on/off valve if that means anything. Also it is flat on one side of the valve, on the opposite side of the "handle" if that makes a difference.

The guy at the store said you could use it that way just put a bit of Teflon tape on it but I'm concerned if the tapered threads, assuming that's what they are would mess up the straight threads on the inlet tube and cause leaking problems. I may have to look at another HI Store to locate a shutoff valve more similar to the one you used. I think it allows for less clearance to sides or bottom if needed too.