Liquid Transom hmmmm?

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I'm looking to replace my transom on a tiny houseboat and switch from inboard to outboard. Its 1.5" thick and for me I think liquid transom would be easiest. What are your thoughts and recommendations? I will be using an outside mount to mount the engine.

One reason for this thread is that I have contacted Carbon core about Carbon Bond and they said they can no confirm that their product would work at 1.5" for an ouside mount and that I should do my own tests.

I have removed the outside panel from the back of the boat to access the rotten wood. The fiberglass is about 1/4" on both sides inside and out.
 

briangcc

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@archbuilder used Seacast, I believe, on one or more of his boats. To pour in you need to have the skins intact on both sides of the transom (inner and outer) so you may need to do some work prior to your pour.
 
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@archbuilder used Seacast, I believe, on one or more of his boats. To pour in you need to have the skins intact on both sides of the transom (inner and outer) so you may need to do some work prior to your pour.
k yeah my issue would be not having the ability to pour from the top with seacast. I saw that it was thick. I may be able to set up a vibrator or something.
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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doing the transom from the outside is harder than the inside

you are only a few hours of work away from just replacing with wood or Coosa, etc.

did you check your stringers? normally they rot at same time as the transom.
 
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just got off the phone with the makers of seacast. Sabine is an amazing women. Seacast is going to be the way to go for me I think. Its going to be a bit more work but much less work than doing the plywood correctly and will outlast the boat.
So much to do..... lol why can't boats be inexpensive.

oh want to mention she said not to use a vibrator. rubber mallet only
 
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doing the transom from the outside is harder than the inside

you are only a few hours of work away from just replacing with wood or Coosa, etc.

did you check your stringers? normally they rot at same time as the transom.
Yeah ive replaced majority of the stringers on the inside. I didnt remove the back half where the engine mounted as it seemed solid (the fiberglass and foam) and to save money. I was tired already with grinding and I couldnt afford to put the layers of glass back that it had. Its just going to be used as storage now and my back couldnt take much more bending over lol.
 

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Scott Danforth

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I suggest you do a test drill into the stuff you didnt replace
 
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I suggest you do a test drill into the stuff you didnt replace
Ok i have a spot open that seemed dry but im sure the stringers may be gone and the glass is holding it. What happens if I leave it? The motor mounts are solid it seems as though maybe someone has been in there before. The stringers I replaced stopped where I stopped.
 
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I started the first pour yesterday. I think it will go well.

Does anyone have any suggestions for an extended motor mount?
 

Baylinerchuck

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I started the first pour yesterday. I think it will go well.

Does anyone have any suggestions for an extended motor mount?
Was getting ready to mention SeaCast for motor mounts but remembered you are converting to outboard. There are all kinds of fixed and adjustable motor mounts and swim platforms with outboard mounts. It really depends on what you’re after. There are literally hundreds of designs.
 
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Was getting ready to mention SeaCast for motor mounts but remembered you are converting to outboard. There are all kinds of fixed and adjustable motor mounts and swim platforms with outboard mounts. It really depends on what you’re after. There are literally hundreds of designs.
after the cost of 6 buckets of seacast i'm going to be limited to my mounts. I think I'm going to go with a smaller one and use an old diving board as my swim deck or attempt to make my own (first time welding aluminum eek)

edit: pour temps got to about 103f then started to drop off. Used 1/8 sheet of aluminum to hold flat and dissipate/even out the heat. Seemed to work? idk. its going good so far though. I really hope like they say there are no cold joints.
 
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third and final pour didnt go as well. the bag of fiberglass was much more dusty and clumpy. it seemed to thicken up the seacast even at 80% . I'm guessing they use a tumbler to mix the recycled/shredded fiberglass and I got the bottom of the barrel in the bag. All in all good so far.
 
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If i had to do it over again. I would def make sure the fiberglass was not so dry and dusty and that I would have taken the time to make sure the transom had a flat form to hold its shape. 3/4 ply with 2x4 support and then screwed to the transom would have worked much better. than my halfassed setup.
 

nymack66

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I'm looking to replace my transom on a tiny houseboat and switch from inboard to outboard. Its 1.5" thick and for me I think liquid transom would be easiest. What are your thoughts and recommendations? I will be using an outside mount to mount the engine.

One reason for this thread is that I have contacted Carbon core about Carbon Bond and they said they can no confirm that their product would work at 1.5" for an ouside mount and that I should do my own tests.

I have removed the outside panel from the back of the boat to access the rotten wood. The fiberglass is about 1/4" on both sides inside and out.
Use this product, I did my transom with it back in 2008, and never an issue to this day. Pours like thick oil be sure to seal all holes no matter how tiny it is, during the curing process it gets very hot be aware of that also. ......https://www.arjaytechnologies.com/scigrip-arjay-6011-ceramic-pourable-bonding-compound-for-boat-builders/
 

Baylinerchuck

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If i had to do it over again. I would def make sure the fiberglass was not so dry and dusty and that I would have taken the time to make sure the transom had a flat form to hold its shape. 3/4 ply with 2x4 support and then screwed to the transom would have worked much better. than my halfassed setup.
Where’s the pics?? Ha ha
 
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Use this product, I did my transom with it back in 2008, and never an issue to this day. Pours like thick oil be sure to seal all holes no matter how tiny it is, during the curing process it gets very hot be aware of that also. ......https://www.arjaytechnologies.com/scigrip-arjay-6011-ceramic-pourable-bonding-compound-for-boat-builders/
thanks i remember seeing this while searching and thought it would be the same as carbon bond because it didnt have any fibers in it and might be more prone to cracking. Idk. I'm concerned with seacast still too.
 
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