Kiekhaefer Mark 58E Lower Unit Questions

[jeepjack1995]

I recently acquired a 1958 Mercury Kiekhaefer Mark 58E Super Thunderbolt. I'm currently in the process of getting it running again (not sure the last time it ran.) The previous owner said it needs an impeller. I have a couple questions regarding the lower unit.
1. Am I correct in assuming the water pump cover is threaded on and not pressed? It looks like it is threaded and I will have to fabricate a tool to get it off...
2. Do I need to take the prop shaft off in order to get the drive shaft off to access the impeller?
3. While I have the lower unit apart would it be a good idea to replace all the seals? If so, how difficult is it to replace those seals? Any special tools needed etc...
4. When I spin the prop shaft one way it clicks. Is that normal?
Any information is greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Scott Danforth]

F_R Chinewalker will be along shortly

Welcome aboard

however

1 - you need a pin spanner - it is threaded
2 - no - you need to drop the lower unit
3 - perform a pressure test to determine the health of your seals
4 - clicking in one direction is normal

 

[merc850]

If you're serious about making/keeping this motor run this guy sells tools etc. I have a Mark 58 and it worked flawlessly. http://www.johnsmcintoshvintagemercu...d19604Cyl.html
You might want to join this forum they have the older motors; a lot of older motors! http://johnsoldmercurysite.com/phpBB3/index.php?sid=0ab78df74659be5b9487a3cb640f3430

 

[Chinewalker]

1 - Yes, it is threaded in place. I've had good luck with a flat punch with a tip the same size as the holes in the cap. Drop the tip into the hole, holding the handle of the punch vertically. Using a heavy flat blade screwdriver, use the driveshaft as a fulcrum, prying against the punch shaft with the edge of the blade of the screwdriver against the lower unit. Sometimes a tap or two with a small hammer against the punch (now angled) will get things moving. Avoid banging on it too much as the cap is easily damaged. New ones are available, though. As SD mentioned, a pin spanner will work, and likely work better if you've got one handy.
2 - No need to remove the propshaft.
3 - These units generally had grease in them, so unless you're leaking badly, I'd leave it be for now. Grease is a bit more forgiving than oil as far as leakage goes.
4 - The ratcheting sound you hear is the forward gear ramps and the clutch dog ramps sliding over one another. Completely normal.

 

[jeepjack1995]

Thanks for the replies. What type of grease is best to use? Also, Is there a grease fitting somewhere? All I see is an oil fill hole... I'm sure I'll have more questions as the project progresses. Also,

 

[racerone]

Lubriplate 105 or John Deere " cornhead " grease are often used.

 

[merc850]

Here's the greasing instructions

 

[jeepjack1995]

Thanks for the info. One more question... My manual shows an O ring between the bearing carrier and the gear case cover at the prop shaft. When inspecting my lower unit I noticed that mine is missing. Am I mis-reading my manual? Is that O-ring between the bearing carrier and case?
​Thanks,

 

[merc850]

Yes there is one after the bearing carrier; looks like you're the victim of "where is it? oh heck we don't need that they always put in more parts than you need" mentality.

 

[Chinewalker]

That o-ring isn't visible from the outside. It is between the bearing carrier and the sleeve around the ball bearing on the reverse gear.

 

[jeepjack1995]

How difficult is it to replace the prop shaft oil seal? Does the bearing carrier assembly have to come out? is that seal pressed in from the outside or the inside?
Thanks,