Jump seats

Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Messages
27
I rebuild the pedestal for the jump seat, now the seats look even worse. Looking for some cheap white seats that will fit.
 

Attachments

  • 20210902_151714.jpg
    20210902_151714.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 14
  • 20210902_151707.jpg
    20210902_151707.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 14

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
Tough to know if they will fit without dimensions of your base. Easy enough to find cheap seats.
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Messages
27
A little bit of vinyl cleaner and a whole lot of elbow grease.
 

Attachments

  • 20210906_174650.jpg
    20210906_174650.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 6
  • 20210906_174700.jpg
    20210906_174700.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 6
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Messages
27
Thanks the dog house is next and the side panels, not in bad shape just sun faded. Looking for away to clean and brighton them.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,725
Thanks the dog house is next and the side panels, not in bad shape just sun faded. Looking for away to clean and brighton them.
Sun damage is hard to repair without replacing. Any thoughts on just replacing them?

SHSU
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Messages
27
Sun damage is hard to repair without replacing. Any thoughts on just replacing them?

SHSU
First going to try rub and restore, if that doesn't work then I will redo the pieces my self. Will sew some design into it over the winter.
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Messages
27
I am trying to keep the costs down, and at marine Plywood at over $100 a 4 x 8 sheet it is tough to do. Just the flotation foam will run around $500.
 

matt167

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
4,151
You don't need marine plywood, especially for deck furniture... CDX will be fine as long as what you get is exposure 1 or better..
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Messages
27
Using exterior plywood marine painted and vinyled Using marine Plywood for the decking will be coating it with fiberglass resin
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,412
Using exterior plywood marine painted and vinyled Using marine Plywood for the decking will be coating it with fiberglass resin
What resin to you plan to use? Hopefully epoxy and not polyester.
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,412
Why epoxy and not a polyester?
for sealing plywood (esp douglas dir), you really should reinforce the resin with fiberglass to prevent grain checking (checking cracks the cured resin allowing water intrusion to untreated wood.) if you planned on just coating the wood with resin without glass (ill advised), epoxy is going to have the higher probability of surviving; polyester is fragile (weak/brittle) and lower bond strength than epoxy.

I recommend to folks trying to save $$$ (not glassing) to consider "old timer's formula" (mix of 1part boiled linseed oil, 1part spar varnish and 2parts mineral spirts)...and coating the OTF-treated wood with spar paying special attention to the edges.
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,412
Thanks any good sites on how to fiberglass a boat deck?
yw! I learned by reading a few publications from the Gougeon Brothers (link).

in a nutshell, my approach is as follows:
  1. before sealing/encapsulating the plywood, I form epoxy plugs wherever fasteners will be used...it takes some planning.
  2. once the plugs are formed/sanded flat, cut glass cloth to size (using the wood as a template) and set aside.
  3. 1st application of epoxy is directly to the wood...basically a primer coat so the wood doesn't starve the cloth.
  4. once the 1st coat cures and is still a little tacky, lay glass cloth (6oz)...if you wait too long, a wax-like coating (amine blush) forms and subsequent epoxy coats won't adhere very well. you'll have to wash with clean water and probably scuff the cured epoxy for the subsequent layer to adhere.
  5. wet the cloth with epoxy and a small roller...this initial coat takes alot so be prepared. Squeegee out the access; you don't want it to pool-up or it could cause it to bubble.
  6. once it tacks up, roll-on the next coat of epoxy...as it starts curing, air bubbles may form; I drag a roller across to knock down the air bubbles.
  7. repeat step 6 until the glass grains are no longer visible.
  8. once it's cured, wash off the amine blush (water), sand and prime with a compatible paint (I use Interlux PreKote); Epoxy is not UV compatible so it will need to be covered (carpet, vinyl, paint, varnish, etc.)
it's basically the approached i used in this video (start around the 9:42 mark):
 
Top