Johnson 9.5 horse model MQ-10R NEED ENGINE HELP studder at WOT.

crimekilla

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Does anyone know where to get a parts diagram that gives the OEM part number for pretty much the entire engine?

my 9.5 horse is having a rough time starting, it dies at low idle and it is only getting up to about 6 mph on a 14 foot open hull allum. maybe 800 lbs total weight including people and gear. also at WOT it gives a rough shake every few seconds.

when i got it back from the lake i was looking it over and i noticed either gas or a mix of water and gas leaking from a small hole (about the size of the opening at the tip of a mechanicle pen) on the under side of the caviation plate. Is that hole supposed to be there, and what if aything is supposed to be comming from it. (i was playing with the throttle and also the pull start cord as i broke the string and had to fix it).

I had a guy do a total overhaul on the engine last year but after the first time out with it i notice oil/grease leaking from a hole sheered in the lower unit casing behind the prop. i did not use the engine again and left it with gas in it until about two weeks ago.(thought it was dead due to the hole) i used marine tex to fix the case and it is holding up good but now i am having the other issues.

I remember the one time i used it last year it was still hard to start and was not great at low idle but can not recall if it felt i was going faster then 6 mph.

i plan on checking the compression today when i get home. but the guy from the shop told me last year if the compression wasnt good he would not have done any work on it. so i am assuming the compression is ok.

brings me to needing parts. I am pretty sure i am going to need a carb kit. if any one knows where i can get one. as well as pretty much all the other gaskets and o rings associated with the engine.

thanks for any help i can get.
 

ezeke

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Re: Johnson 9.5 horse model MQ-10R

Re: Johnson 9.5 horse model MQ-10R

The MQ-10 would be the model number for the year. The trailing letter indicates a manufacturing run within the year or a possible change within the model year.

Edit: You will need the OEM carburetor kit part number 0382048, from your dealer:

http://dealerlocator.evinrude.com/EN/?Rnd=1172157085156
 

crimekilla

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Re: Johnson 9.5 horse model MQ-10R

Re: Johnson 9.5 horse model MQ-10R

thanks for the info I got it as a 64.

I checked compression and got 69 on #1 and 66 on #2. Both plugs were pretty fouled up. I put new plugs in it and sprayed the top of the carb with some carb cleaner. also cleaned up the rest of the engine. It took care of the low idle issue and the hard start issue. It did not help out any with the wide open throtel issue. it is still only giving me about 7 mph at WOT. the engine is shaking pretty bad every few seconds at WOT.
my gas tank valve is open and pumping the hand bulb does not help or hinder while WOT or low idle. am using new gas 87 octane with 50 to 1 (30 weight) johnson 2 stroke oil. i did see water coming from the water hole on the back of the engine. also my prop is knicked up a bit but not to the extreme.

When I got home I pulled the plugs out and the #2 plug was all fouled out again #1 looked like new. I am going to pull the top of the carb off and try to soak it. if any one has any idea of what can be causing the issue at WOT I would appreciate some advise.
thanks
 

crimekilla

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Re: Johnson 9.5 horse model MQ-10R NEED ENGINE HELP studder at WOT.

well i rebuilt the carb and got a new prop as the one i had spun its hub. i am still only getting about 9 MPH
any got any ideas as to what else might be wrong.
i was thinking about trying a hotter saprk plug. using a J4C now thinking about going to a J6C, or J8C. see if it boosts me up at all.
 

ezeke

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Re: Johnson 9.5 horse model MQ-10R NEED ENGINE HELP studder at WOT.

You might want to do a thorough de-carbon treatment on the engine to see if you can improve the compression.

Is your thermostat working properly? My 9.5 motors run better with fewer plug problems with the correct 143 degree thermostat.

The carburetor does not discriminate between cylinders, so you might want to check the spark with an inductive tachometer or timing light while running. That could also be caused by a reed going bad.

The high end hesitation may be a air leak in the fuel system, so check everything again, especially the gasket betwee the engine and the fuel pump. You can usually spot a leak by putting steady pressure on the primer bulb unless it is at the carburetor gasket.
 
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