"It Happened!" Transom has to be replaced! (NOW W/PICS)

LX Kid

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Sep 5, 2008
Messages
993
The faster I go the slower I seem to be moving! Didn't get the gimbal assembly mounted and seem to be re-working small things I thought were already completed. Re-installed the scuppers by putting 1/16" seal on the outside and 1/8" seal on the inside and of course used 4200 sealant. Ordered a new LED transom bulb to replace the blown incandescent bulb. (Piddle, piddle, piddle.)
 

LX Kid

Ensign
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
993
What a wasted week for the boat. I got roped into helping a friend move because I "have a truck" and couldn't say no. Then this weekend I'm helping in a two day trade show. Now it looks like up coming week is going to be colder. Boo_hoo too bad for me.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
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48,057
Suck it up cupcake

I havent been able to fire up the new motor for 3 weeks. Was supposed to have it installed 2 weeks ago
 

LX Kid

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Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
993
Suck it up cupcake

I havent been able to fire up the new motor for 3 weeks. Was supposed to have it installed 2 weeks ago

Any yes I do like "sucking up" cupcakes!
 

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LX Kid

Ensign
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Sep 5, 2008
Messages
993
I briefly looked at the lower unit and found the shaft seal is leaking. So now I have upper and lower shaft seals leaking. Pretty soon, after engine and gimbal assembly are re-installed, I'll have to do some seal replacement.
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 18, 2009
Messages
10,487
I just hand them they key to my truck and remind them the tank needs to be topped off when it is returned.


side note, while your sig line is accurate in that you have a pre alpha, if I'm not mistaken it is an MC-1 if you want a name for it. Thats what mine was.
 

LX Kid

Ensign
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Sep 5, 2008
Messages
993
I
side note, while your sig line is accurate in that you have a pre alpha, if I'm not mistaken it is an MC-1 if you want a name for it. Thats what mine was.

Over the past 10 years I've been told so many things about the outdrive and gimbal assembly. Pre-alpha, MR, Mc-1, R etc. I just keep buying parts till something fits. ( Which most early models do.)
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Over the past 10 years I've been told so many things about the outdrive and gimbal assembly. Pre-alpha, MR, Mc-1, R etc. I just keep buying parts till something fits. ( Which most early models do.)

pre-alpha is for less educated that have not properly identified their MC-1/MR/etc.

thats like saying my car is post carb, pre networked EFI
 

Stumpalump

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 5, 2013
Messages
413
pre-alpha is for less educated that have not properly identified their MC-1/MR/etc.

thats like saying my car is post carb, pre networked EFI

Reminds me of more engine specific forums when a guy with bolt on go fast goodies says he "built" his engine. There will always be a machinist or piston and crank guy calling him out and saying that's not building anything. It's just slang but it's nice to get clarification on these old mercs because so many are around. Good info here.
 

LX Kid

Ensign
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
993
Had some help this morning to try pre-fitting the gimbal plate to the gimbal assembly. Found that the lower portion, of the keyhole, needed some touch up grinding for exhaust area to fit properly. After grinding I reapplied resin to seal the wood. "Also", and I know I'm going to get some flack for, I'm not going to use the lower broken off piece of the gimbal plate. It does nothing except pull in the gimbal assembly lower portion of the foam seal! I will use fender washers on the aluminum bolt where the come thru the transom. I'll also use fender washers on the lower two stud holes, on the gimbal plate, that broke thru their middle, to secure it to the transom. 20171206_100632_resized.jpg
 
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Stumpalump

Chief Petty Officer
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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
413
Had some help this morning to try pre-fitting the gimbal plate to the gimbal assembly. Found that the lower portion, of the keyhole, needed some touch up grinding for exhaust area to fit properly. After grinding I reapplied resin to seal the wood. "Also", and I know I'm going to get some flack for, I'm not going to use the lower broken off piece of the gimbal plate. It does nothing except pull in the gimbal assembly lower portion of the foam seal! I will use fender washers on the aluminum bolt where the come thru the transom. I'll also use fender washers on the lower two stud holes, on the gimbal plate, that broke thru their middle, to secure it to the transom.

Think about that when powering hard and flexing the transom, engine and gimble in a heavy sea. Why can't you get it welded? Do you really want to go back in there after it leaks? Do you really want a surveyer to say no go when you sell it?
 

LX Kid

Ensign
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
993
Think about that when powering hard and flexing the transom, engine and gimble in a heavy sea. Why can't you get it welded? Do you really want to go back in there after it leaks? Do you really want a surveyer to say no go when you sell it?

Thanks for your concern but your not here to evaluate this situation or the safety there of.

In the picture above, #396, the two bottom holes are the ones in question where the two "aluminum" bolts go thru. They have very little torque value on them as they would strip off the securing nuts. The four studs above them are what holds the whole outdrive weight.
 
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Jcris

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Apr 23, 2016
Messages
466
Stump alump has a valid point but I would have to agree with you LX. I do think you may do better with a metal plate to bridge the mounting holes. If that's feasible?
The plate could be glued into position as well bolted. Good idea?
 

Stumpalump

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 5, 2013
Messages
413
Thanks for your concern but your not here to evaluate this situation or the safety there of.

.
My concern is the situation and safety of the World Wide Web that is reading a restoration thread on how not to do it. Should we start a list with Auto Zone Bondo and latex paint or cutting the rear skin to get inside of the boat. Since your spending another week and dollar trying to fix a vintage corroded and cracked drive that could have simply been upgraded to a cheap used alpha parts as suggested.........I'm just going to call "Uncle". Good luck.
 
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