Mine has the folding trailer tongue and literally just fits in my garage. There's maybe a 1/4" between the (folded) trailer tongue and garage door! Without the folding tongue I would have to store the boat diagonally, taking up both spaces in the two car garage.Mine is a 19.5 ft dual console with a shortened trailer so it will all fit in the garage ...
JimS123,If the ball is not turning in the direction you want it's because its extended too high and the shaft is binding. I have the same problem on my little boat like yours, plus my bigger ones.
Lower the tongue so it's just slightly below level and try again.
When I detach from the car obviously I have to crank it up above the ball. It doesn't work well then. But, if I then lower it below the ball all is well.
As a follow up, I'm going to crank the jack all the down and mark it. Then crank it all the way up. Measuring the distance, I'll divide by 2 and put a mark on the inner shaft at the halfway point. That should be a good starting point to find the sweet spot to lower the jack to have it caster well. Once I find the sweet spot, I'll mark the inner shaft and will not have to crank so much to lower the jack for castering.JimS123,
YOU ARE CORRECT!
I lowered my jack all the way down and then cranked it up about an inch. The roller acts like a caster in that configuration. Your analysis is spot on in that with the jack too high, the inner shaft cocks and therefore binds. With the jack down far enough, the inner shaft is no longer cocked and therefore can spin inside of the outer shaft.
Apparently, when I had my jack lowered before but the roller did not caster, I did not have it lowered enough to prevent it from cocking and binding.
Fantastic analysis of the problem. It is a pain to have to manually crank the jack so much to lower it down enough for the roller to caster, but at least now I can move my boat around manually easily.
Thanks!
What brand jack?On my trailer, lubrication and/or lowering the jack make absolutely no difference. I still have to kick the wheel (or whack it with a piece of 2x4) to get it to rotate. The trailer jack that the current one replaced was the same.
I wish I had your problem. I have to place a wood block or concrete paver under my trailer wheel to keep it from peening the asphalt or sinking into the gravel or sod. I orient the wheel for when the trailer sets into the tire chocks and moves a bit to keep it on the block. Dang thing has a mind of its own and moves to, or over the closest edge.Thanks much for confirming that's the way they are.
Now I don't have to try finding a trailer jack that does caster by itself.
Thanks!
I put a small stone under the wheel to keep it from moving. A small wood wedge works to.I wish I had your problem. I have to place a wood block or concrete paver under my trailer wheel to keep it from peening the asphalt or sinking into the gravel or sod. I orient the wheel for when the trailer sets into the tire chocks and moves a bit to keep it on the block. Dang thing has a mind of its own and moves to, or over the closest edge.