ChristianMariner
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2013
- Messages
- 131
Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips
Bro, I hope it is rebuilt
Bro, I hope it is rebuilt
@mrdrh99
I do not see that as a problem at all. No inflatable is 100% air-tight. Losing a noticeable amount of pressure over a 1 week period is reasonable. Even the strength of a tire bead or valve is not 100%. Seams are the weak link in the inflatable boats.
+1^....... I like titans but think its overkill , the frontier would be my pick. But I'm still holding out for a jet ski trailer so then my paid for blazer is still tops for me! I can put my m4 on the roof rack and I'm ready to go!
Hello all here is my floor for my Mariner 4 that I made out of 1/2 plywood and aluminum H channel and some gorilla tape I have added some pictures of it along with this post I have been out in it and it works real good way lot better than the roll up floor that came with it. I weighed all the pieces togather and it came up to 36 lbs not much over the weight of the factory roll up floor. I am gonna paint top side white and put some grit in paint so person dont slip when getting in and out of it they say that white reflects heat so we will see . Feel free to comment.View attachment 203065View attachment 203066View attachment 203067View attachment 203068View attachment 203069
Would anyone else like to please share their detailed floor build... I don't have many tools and would like to keep from having to buy so many... Provided some preliminary cutting done by home depot or lowes...i think i can probably manage the other cutting with what I currently have (manual hack saw, drill, and a small, pos, battery operated dremmel) but sanding is another animal altogether as I have no tools for that.... so im thinking of getting a jigsaw, especially for the curved parts, should I, and what should I get to sand all the surfaces and edges?
I'm also on the fence as far as what to seal it with... whatever is easier and on the cheaper side but not to the point where I'd have to redo it in 6 months..also not extremely messy, the wife hates my DYI's.. ;-)
So I was thinking several coats of some high gloss exterior oil based paint... How much of the stuff should I need, will a quart do? I noticed lots of folk recommend Thompsons sealer, but its a bit pricey for one, and also seems to make the wood very brittle....thought s , comments, please share and as always thank you for doing so!! Godbless
Here it is:
Thanks for the video Chris!!!
Thanks for the video Chris!!!
I am getting a non-inflatable next. Probably an old beater tri-hull. I like the M4, but I think I have it maxed out as far as the dollar per value ( for what I do with it ) is concerned. That truck was bought to tow something that can hold a small partywith a 3.5 on your m4 you would blow right by. Chris when you plan on getting that 3.5? or if you want I have friend selling a mercury quicksilver with air floor. Very nice boat he is on the forum here his name is sinitre. he has videos with that quicksilver
Hey... well as far as sanding, get some sand paper and and sand the edges and buy a roll of ducktape and place it along the edges. I did this and it worked. I just had the raw wood with taped edges. I put a really cheap wiping (wont even call it a coat) of poly on it. It simply added a smell of poly to my wood. Lol. I have to redo my floor for thicker wood. I used 1/3 inch and it is not strong enought... but so light to carry. It works but it is slowly bending.
I have a 1/2" hardwood ply floor painted with 3 coats of outdoor paint, covered in indoor/outdoor carpet. Had the width cut at lowes, and then cut the tapers with a jigsaw. Its in two pieces and about 6" short on both ends. Now with this H and C channel idea I'm thinking of redoing my floor in a 4 piece over the winter connected by H in the center and C on the edges. I am also planning to make a much larger storage area in the front of the boat and making a board on the back similar to what Heath has on his boat which would almost completely free all my floor space other than my chair and battery, which is tucked under that front storage area already
Hi da_q-ban_one,
There are several floor configurations on this thread. Cost, performance, simplicity, portability, and aesthetics I think are some of the main factors people considered. These factors are all weighted differently for each of us. You need to set a priority on these factors and then back into the project.
It does seem as though the sweet spot for weight vs strength is 1/2"-5/8". Some of the more expensive ply sheets have more layers and are stronger and thinner, but heavier (because they are dense). So I do not think its worth putting too much time into hunting down the right ply. I used a cheap 5/8" birch ply, and sealed it with oil-based poly (satin finish), then affixed inexpensive marine carpet, wrapping the edges. Unless you plan to keep the boat, with floor installed, outside in the rain all the time, I just can't ever see the boat outliving the floor.
Regardless of the configuration you choose, just be sure that the floor is cut to the correct dimensions. Too small will make it difficult to stay in place at run-time, and too large will put unnecessary stress on the chamber/floor seams. Use the factory floor as your guide, and remember... measure twice, cut once ;-)
The C and H channels to join the floor sections is something I would explore if you plan to have more than 2 sections or plan to use a 4HP+ Outboard. Many here on the forum established the need to tie the motor mount into the floor when using higher HP motors.
Keep it simple though. The more burden on assembly, the less enthusiastic you will be about taking it out. Someone else said that earlier and they are correct.
I love my inflatable boat. I agree with the both of you. I would not want to have something that is more trouble than it is worth. I wish I had more time to get on to the water than I have had lately.