Intake manifold, 350 GM

Lou C

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Good LORD that looks way worse than any part of my raw water cooled motor used in salt! don't know if that could be saved with rust converter, might be worth removing all the loose rust, then poke at it with a pick see if there is still solid cast iron there.
Normally a rotor just pulls off but I see 2 hex headed screws there maybe those have to be removed?
Merc guys what say you?
 

jimmbo

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Normally a rotor just pulls off but I see 2 hex headed screws there maybe those have to be removed?
Merc guys what say you?
While this may or may not be a GM Distributor, Rotors on GM Distributors, were almost always secured with screws, as they sat on top of the Advance Mechanism
 

rickasbury

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While this may or may not be a GM Distributor, Rotors on GM Distributors, were almost always secured with screws, as they sat on top of the Advance Mechanism
It is a gm distributor. I see at least one hex bolt holding it in. The timing on this motor is not adjustable so it has to come out and go back 100% correct for sure...
 

Lou C

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While this may or may not be a GM Distributor, Rotors on GM Distributors, were almost always secured with screws, as they sat on top of the Advance Mechanism
The last time I had one of those, was our '75 Olds, 5.7 with a Quadrajet
I think I had to change the HEI module once in the 15 or so years we had it.
 

Lou C

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Before that we had a '72 Chevy Impala 5.7 with points, I had to climb up on top of the engine to change the points. God forbid you dropped one of those screws in the distributor! GM did have that nice allen key adjustment for the points, you could set the dwell with the engine running.
 

Scott Danforth

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manually rotate the motor to TDC on #1. use a paint pen. mark where the rotor is before you pull the dizzy. then when you pull it, the rotor will move. mark where it is when it stops moving.

installation is reverse. but there are markings on the dizzy body and pics in the manual.
1794344903221.png
 

Scott06

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Many days..I will need to pull the rotary to full assess and hopefully repair. I understand how a rotor works but have never pulled one...can someone help me with this so I don't screw up the timing? I'm fresh water cooled..water is apparently coming from the pedestal base over the enging compartment...2009 350 mpi 350 mercView attachment 421045
No reason to worry that’s surface rust. If in fresh water you have water coming down from swim pad or deck above. Do you still have the flame arrestor cover on it ?

you will sell the boat before that rusts through.
 

rickasbury

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Before that we had a '72 Chevy Impala 5.7 with points, I had to climb up on top of the engine to change the points. God forbid you dropped one of those screws in the distributor! GM did have that nice allen key adjustment for the points, you could set the dwell with the engine running.
That is old school lou for sure!
 

rickasbury

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No reason to worry that’s surface rust. If in fresh water you have water coming down from swim pad or deck above. Do you still have the flame arrestor cover on it ?

you will sell the boat before that rusts through.
I could only hope but that is not my luck! Plus, it should not be a big deal to pull it? Can I mark the intake and the rotar and put it back the same as long as I don't move the crank?
 

rickasbury

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manually rotate the motor to TDC on #1. use a paint pen. mark where the rotor is before you pull the dizzy. then when you pull it, the rotor will move. mark where it is when it stops moving.

installation is reverse. but there are markings on the dizzy body and pics in the manual.
View attachment 421050
Im just seeing this and will look again am..thx for the help.
 

Scott06

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I could only hope but that is not my luck! Plus, it should not be a big deal to pull it? Can I mark the intake and the rotar and put it back the same as long as I don't move the crank?
Yes but it were mine I would wire brush and paint the intake, and call it a day
 
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