Intake manifold, 350 GM

[Lou C]

Good LORD that looks way worse than any part of my raw water cooled motor used in salt! don't know if that could be saved with rust converter, might be worth removing all the loose rust, then poke at it with a pick see if there is still solid cast iron there.
Normally a rotor just pulls off but I see 2 hex headed screws there maybe those have to be removed?
Merc guys what say you?

 

[jimmbo]

Normally a rotor just pulls off but I see 2 hex headed screws there maybe those have to be removed?
Merc guys what say you?

While this may or may not be a GM Distributor, Rotors on GM Distributors, were almost always secured with screws, as they sat on top of the Advance Mechanism

 

[rickasbury]

While this may or may not be a GM Distributor, Rotors on GM Distributors, were almost always secured with screws, as they sat on top of the Advance Mechanism

It is a gm distributor. I see at least one hex bolt holding it in. The timing on this motor is not adjustable so it has to come out and go back 100% correct for sure...

 

[Lou C]

While this may or may not be a GM Distributor, Rotors on GM Distributors, were almost always secured with screws, as they sat on top of the Advance Mechanism

The last time I had one of those, was our '75 Olds, 5.7 with a Quadrajet
I think I had to change the HEI module once in the 15 or so years we had it.

 

[Lou C]

Before that we had a '72 Chevy Impala 5.7 with points, I had to climb up on top of the engine to change the points. God forbid you dropped one of those screws in the distributor! GM did have that nice allen key adjustment for the points, you could set the dwell with the engine running.

 

[Scott Danforth]

manually rotate the motor to TDC on #1. use a paint pen. mark where the rotor is before you pull the dizzy. then when you pull it, the rotor will move. mark where it is when it stops moving.

installation is reverse. but there are markings on the dizzy body and pics in the manual.