Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

tpenfield

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

Hi Glenn:

Keep trying with the picture posting, you'll get the hang of it. Regardless, just having the links to your photobucket album is very helpful.

It does look like insufficient fiberglassing of the stringers along side the engine. . . . The port side stringer looks to be rotting along with the component mount surface. So, a bit more involved than you might have wanted. I would also think the starboard side is not too far behind in its progression.

So, it is a matter of determining how best to go about the repairs.

The fuel tank should have good access to free air for moisture evaporation purposes, so probably no need to cover it with wood, as you had mentioned.
 

Alwhite00

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

I noticed on my boat when I had it (outside durring the summer) that the engine vents would let in rain water (quite a bit) I never had a problem as I just sucked it out but always wanted to make covers that went over the vents attached to the mooring cover. The water would sit in the back corners.

LK
 

glennj3

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

Will you ID what a stringe is for me, precisely and what is the importance of any particular stringers.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

In Photobucket there is an IMG Code. You should click on it to copy it and paste it into iBoats.
A stringer is Wood encased in Glass that runs longitudinally from the stern of the boat to the bow. They provide structural support to the hull as well as support for your deck/floor.
 

Alwhite00

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

You need to do some exploring to see how far the rot goes. I really doubt that the only rot involved is the "shelf" area - If the stringers are shot they need to be replaced and on that boat it is a MAJOR job. The stringers run bow to stern and are on either side of the engine. The transom might also be suspect depending on the origin of the rot. I definately wouldn't just slap a piece of plywood on top & call it good.

LK
 

tommays

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

It looks a bit wet and tired

You have to click on the IMG code for each picture and paste it in and they will show right up



 

glennj3

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...


The wood that remains is still wet but it is hard, that is foam at the lower area of the picture.That should be a stringer in the center, it is hard too.
 

glennj3

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

I jumped into tearing out the rot this evening, nasty. I cut and removed all of the fiberglass, then removed the rotten wood until I hit all hard wood. The stringer would appear to be the groove in the center. It is damp but seems pretty hard. The picture shows foam, the stringer and then more ply wood.
The top picture, If I cut out the ply wood at the top of the picture I would be able to see the back side of the stringer, but it is very difficutly to get my head into that spot and see it anyhow. The plywood is hard.
Thought I would cut and dig some more see if I can get any more rot out. If all looks OK, will let it dry out very well then start on replacing with treated plywood, caucking, then fiberglass. Will see. Don't think I will replace the water tank, very tight fit to get her out!
 

glennj3

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

Is this a picture of a stringer, right next to the engine. I sure hate to cut fiberglass on this side just to see if it is rot or dry beneath the fiberglass, but maybe I need to.
Back in 2003 I left my boat at a mechanics place most of the years, he left it outside and it held water for a long time, very disgusted when I got her back. I was off activated with the Air Force at the time.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

Thought I would cut and dig some more see if I can get any more rot out. If all looks OK, will let it dry out very well then start on replacing with treated plywood, caucking, then fiberglass. Will see. Don't think I will replace the water tank, very tight fit to get her out!

Treated plywood isn't needed or recommended, unless it's KILN DRIED pressure treated [PT]. which some manufacturers do use. It is EXPENSIVE, and heavy. 'Normal' PT plywood you buy at the lumber store IS NOT what you'd want to use.

Get good quality EXTERIOR grade plywood (Aurauco, MDO, ACX), cut them to fit, seal them well w/ CSM & poly resin on all sides & edges, and install them per the details in WOG's signature line up there somewhere...

I'm not sure what caulking you're referring to, but that is a bit off for now, and we can come back to it later.....


If you ever think you MIGHT want to replace the water tank, now is the time. It may never be easy, but it for sure won't ever be easier then it will be while you're doing demo.......


Back in 2003 I left my boat at a mechanics place most of the years, he left it outside and it held water for a long time, very disgusted when I got her back. I was off activated with the Air Force at the time.
I hate to hear that your boat wasn't well cared for, but especially while you were on active duty. Unprotected from the weather, filled & sitting full of water, can lead to all sorts of problems that may be lurking just below the surface. Problems that may not even be evident now, may eventually become visible or detectable.

Water & boats not always a good combo, all depends on which side of the hull is getting wet, when & for how long..

Weigh carefully what you choose to do (and not do) & how far you explore looking for problems. It will be problematic, I suspect, to fully run down every possible problem of water intrusion, particularly if it sat uncovered, and held water for any length of time. Ultimately you'll want to ensure a safe & sound craft for you & yours to enjoy for a long time.


THANK YOU for your service.
 

glennj3

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...



Picture of very back of floor, went to the transom. It is still drying out but seem to have all the rot I can get to at this time removed.
Gotta decide what to do next. Would like to check transom, maybe with the drill from the inside down below the floor? Can't do too much with the engine in place and don't plan to pull it any time this season.
Have to say, this did not happen last week and all seems well enough.
Should I just leave it not repaired for now, drive it, wait until fall and remove the engine and realy do a good job on it? I don't want to have to remove repair work I just did.
 

glennj3

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...



It looks better, drying out. The dark area is hard, dark is indicative of rot, but this plywood is very hard.
 

glennj3

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...



If you can tell what I see here, this is looking strait down from top next to the engine. The wood/board on the downside next to the engine is all rotten and removed, just the fiberglass is standing up. Not sure what is below it, think I should replace the wood in that section and cover with new fiberglass.
 

glennj3

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

What is CSM, where do I get it and Poly Resin is a glue or varnish resin?
I know I sound dumb, but I am learning, thanks.

Glenn
 

tpenfield

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

CSM = Chopped Strand Mat . . . it is a common fiberglass matting fabric

Poly Resin = Polyester Resin . . . which is the 'plastic' part of the fiberglass. CSM and WR (Woven Roving) or other types of fiberglass cloth are the 'fiber' component part of fiberglass. The resin is activated with MEKP (Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide) and goes from a liquid to a solid in about 15 minutes, forming the plastic. There is also Vinyl Ester Resins (VE) and Epoxy resins. Poly Resin is the most commonly used as it is the least expensive.

You can get these things, plus more of what you may need at online sites. . . probably too expensive to buy locally at marine stores.

Here are some sites:

U.S. Composites, Inc. - Fiberglass , Epoxy , Composites, Carbon Fiber

http://www.fiberglasssite.com
 

glennj3

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

Plan to remove the rotten wet plywood from the sleeping quarters tomorrow, found the port side there is rotten also, the mid section not as bad but will replace it too. Will be interesting to see what it looks like beneath the sleeping floor where the fuel tank is.
Just can't figure out where the water came from, this is all pretty new since last year or at least a lot worse.
The boat is under a large shed on the trailor and has a cover over most of it. Is rarely in the water.
The water tank does not leak though the hoses may have at one time, I have not used it in years due to not having a water pump for it.
I plan to put it back in but like AlWhite has his, my tank had the hoses on the inside so you could not see the connections. Where can I find a water pump for it??
 

tpenfield

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

The moisture often comes from the daily condensation cycle (morning dew) and finds its way into places where it can not easily evaporate, and therefore builds up over time. Most often it is the fuel bay that is the culprit and it feeds the rest of the structure with the moisture that it is retaining.
 

glennj3

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Re: Inside area of engine compartment is rotting...

Hmmm, I pulled the plywood from over the fuel tank today, it needs replacing and the port side was rotted awful. This is inside the sleeping quarters. The plywood actually runs through the bulkhead and into the engine compartment and the center piece used to run out over the end of the fuel tank inside the engine compartment.
All of this plywood is up high from the bottom of the boat, fortunately it all had a fiberglass placed underneath it prior to placeing in the boat. Seems this sandwiched the wood with fiberglass and must have held moisture inside. Below the rotted plywood is pretty good.
So at this point I would consider not covering with fiberglass, just use plywood and spar varnish, that way I can see it & it looks good ??

Just a note, I used a small wood cutting blade for my drimmel tool, $19 at Lowes. It is working great cutting through the Fiber Glass and wood portions.
 
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