ID my boat! 1957 Starcraft Speedster?

[BTF112989]

With the difficulty of working with aluminum, I could probably find an aluminum fabricator do the work for a couple of hundred dollars. That would be the hardest part. I can handle the woodworking, paint, electrical, and rigging no problem. Metal work is a whole other challenge for me.

Does anyone know if there was in fact a tiller model and a model with a steering wheel? The page from Fiberglassics with the description and horsepower limits shows two models. I could restore the front piece and all seats, then still keep the tiller style steering. The steering wheel & throttle could be added later on if desired.

 

[jbcurt00]

I'd suggest you do it however suits you.

If setup up for remote steering but used as a tiller works for you now, thats the way I'd proceed.

 

[ssdale]

BTF- Fabricating the front seat set up with out a pattern to work from would be a pretty big challenge and take whatever dollar amount that you think it will take for materials-then double it, if you are going for authentic woods. IMHO. The metal cap that covers the seat back would be very difficult to replicate and the dash, bow cap underframe are all pretty complex structurally. Just changing out the oak gunnels in and of itself is very time consuming. ALL just my opinion after having done it with a 1959 super constellation (16 ft Speedster) Not trying to hi-jack, thought you might find link interesting. Not trying to be a parade rainer-just don't want you to lose enthusiasm after setting course. My advice would be to modify with your own simple designs and enjoy soon, rather than trying to replicate all that you don't have. Best Wishes of success, Dale

 

[BTF112989]

Thanks for the insight everyone! I understand what you are saying ssdale. I don't want to bite off more than I can chew. A few years ago I repainted, recarpeted, and renovated my trailer, but that is nothing compared to what this undertaking would be. I believe my first course of action would be to strip the 5 different layers of old paint, and start fresh with the original paint job. Does everyone use Imron on these hulls? I've had experience with Awlgrip before.

After I strip the old paint, I think that would be the best time to repair all dents and dings on the boat. What is the best way to repair small dents in the aluminum? Ball Peen hammer and a block of wood? slide-hammer? The skin is not punctured anywhere.

I also need to strip the brown paint off of the transom corner handles and the bow cap. Was the bottom of the hull originally bare aluminum, and the hullsides were white?

I then would sand the wood trim down and revarnish it.

A strip, paint, and varnish job would probably be what I could give the boat at this point. Leave the mahogany seat replacement and replacement aluminum on the bow for a later date.

Mahogany benches would not be too difficult at the same time(just costly).

The mahogany seat backs(which will be very difficult), steering system, dash, etc would have to be put on hold until a later date. So I could just aim to go with the tiller model of the speedster until I can dedicate the time and resources to the full restoration with front bow piece, steering wheel, and seat backs.

Does this sound feasible? Or should I just dedicate the extra time to a full restoration at the same time?


-Ben

 

[ssdale]

Ben,
Unless the dents are really bad and you enjoy using bondo, or really small that it takes virtually no skill to remove, I have just repainted as is. Kinda adds to the charm in my mind. Do spend your time meticulously prepping for paint. IMHO. The seat benches are as simple as it gets. The bookcase seat backs are a bit complicated. Your plan is certainly feasible and I would keep watching for a complete specimen with bow cap, dash, steering etc.. to refurbish in the mean time. Just MHO.
Best of luck,
Dale