I/Os in salt water...

Rostov

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Hi all,
I am looking at a Formula boat with outdrives... I just spoke with one gentlemen, and he said that Outdrives are a BIG NO-NO! in salt water, especially if boat stays in the water most of the time.
Is there much of a truth in this statement?
Thanks!!!
 

racerone

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Any product made with aluminum housings and held together with stainless screws will suffer in salt water.---Just a fact in dealing with salt water.-----The 400 HP outboards are now very popular.----Many of those will also suffer if not maintained / flushed on a regular basis.
 

alldodge

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^^ Agree
If the Merc Mercathode or Vlovo Penta Active Corrosion Protection system needs to be working correctly even in fresh but more so in salt. There are test which should be done periodically to ensure things are protected. Anodes are changed more often and watched.

While an I/O has more issues then a inboard, its all about maintenance. Can also buy a lift to keep it out of the water. Not plugging one into shore power also helps
 

tpenfield

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Hi all,
I am looking at a Formula boat with outdrives... I just spoke with one gentlemen, and he said that Outdrives are a BIG NO-NO! in salt water, especially if boat stays in the water most of the time.
Is there much of a truth in this statement?
Thanks!!!
Not much truth . . .

I happen to have a Formula boat with twin I/O's (Mercruiser Bravo 3) and run in salt water, as do many people. My boat stays in the water 4-5 months per year. You will want good anode protection along with the Mercathode system, and lots of grease on stuff.

Also, anti-fouling paint on the outdrive and props. You will spend some time each year checking for signs of corrosion, changing the anodes, and re-painting.

I'd say in my waters, about 25% of the folks have I/O's. Many would prefer OB's, but you can't always get that in a boat that you like or can afford.
 

cptbill

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^^^ Yep I agree My 2000 Larson w/twin VP dp-sm on it spends months at a time in the water( Gulf of Mexico) and all it really needs is cleaned off every now and the but I also use outdrive anti-fouling paint on it.
 

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Rostov

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Ogh... I knew it wont be easy... :) So... My plan was to keep it in the water all year around, but I could do April through October. If I did that, would I need to take it out during those 7 month for checking?
Need to research what anode protection is...
 

racerone

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Anodes on drives are a sacrificial material.----Research ---NOBILITY -----of metals.-----The anode get eaten away by small electric currents and saves your expensive drive parts.
 

tpenfield

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If you are in an area where you can have your boat in the water year-round, you should probably plan on 3 haul-outs per year to do maintenance.
 

Rostov

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Anodes on drives are a sacrificial material.----Research ---NOBILITY -----of metals.-----The anode get eaten away by small electric currents and saves your expensive drive parts.
Thanks, did some googling... Just was not sure where it is installed. Does it really work, i mean.. how effective?
 

Rostov

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If you are in an area where you can have your boat in the water year-round, you should probably plan on 3 haul-outs per year to do maintenance.
Thanks, that was my next question... :)
With this situation I would probably have it out for the winter, i am i DC area, i cannot go out during winter, too cold anyway... Would one service last for 7 month though? - looks like not...
If I maintain it well, nothing crazy though, how long those ODs would live?
 

alldodge

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Need a digital voltmeter and special test probe. So long as the voltage will stay within range the drives are protected.
 

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Rostov

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I think Ill just stick with JetSki! :))))
Ok. I dont want all the hustle... I guess I need to be looking for the V-drive, since my idea of the boating is to spend as much time as i can on the boat...
 

alldodge

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Note:
I/O better performance and lower fuel burn, but higher maintenance cost
Inboard less performance and higher fuel burn, but lower maintenance cost
 

dingbat

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Thanks, that was my next question... :)
With this situation I would probably have it out for the winter, i am i DC area, i cannot go out during winter, too cold anyway..
Where are you going to keep the boat?
Fresh or raw water cooled motors?

Huge difference in salinity (0.5 - 30 ppt) between the tidal Potomac (Wilson Bridge), the Bay Bridge (Annapolis) and the Solomons area.

Need paint at any location unless your on a lift.
 

Rostov

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Where are you going to keep the boat?
Fresh or raw water cooled motors?

Huge difference in salinity (0.5 - 30 ppt) between the tidal Potomac (Wilson Bridge), the Bay Bridge (Annapolis) and the Solomons area.

Need paint at any location unless your on a lift.
I got a wet slip at Deale, MD, Chesapeake Bay. Pretty salty there.
I think it is inclosed cooling system.
 
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dingbat

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I got a wet slip at Deale, MD, Chesapeake Bay. Pretty salty there.
Happy Harbor guy?

Keep my first boat (I/O) on the trailer at Breezy Point Marina. Weekends in a slip....weekdays on the trailer.

Loved the boat......who didn't love their first boat, but far too much work keeping up with motor and drive issues. Keep it for two seasons then sold it for an outboard.
 
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Chris1956

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I had an Mercruiser I/O in salt water for 15 years. I have had OBs in salt water for 20 years, so I have some experience. Cast Iron I/O engine blocks hold up very well to saltwater, but the stamped steel parts do not. So rust forms on pulleys, ring gear covers etc. It is best to hose the blocks down regularly. I would normally find pieces of unknown metal in the bilge in the spring.

Also grease the steering rod, so it doesn't seize in the tube. Be prepared to replace risers and manifolds every 7-8 years. The thermostat housings occasionally rust out as well. Oil pressure senders can rust out, as some are steel.

You will need to change thermostats, waterpumps and fan belts, whenever they fail. Alternators get corroded and fail. Starters tend to fail also, but I am not sure why. Watch for oil pans to rust out. If you scratch the paint on an oil filter, it will rust thru.

As for the outdrive. They are not as robust as OB gearcases. due to the extra gears. Keep 'em filled with good gear oil and keep the grease fittings lubes. The U joints will fail after 7-8 years or so. The yoke can get a wear groove and leak gear oil into the bilge.

I used to go thru 2 sets of anodes a year, even though I did not have shore power and I did have a MerCathodsystem. Likely the SS prop had something to do with it.

As was said, I/O are much better on fuel than 2 cycle Carb OBs, but need much more maintenance. I expect that 4 cycle OBs will eventually kill off the I/O motors. They are just as powerful, just as fuel efficient, weigh much less, but currently cost more. They also have much less maintenance requirements. Just my .02
 

poconojoe

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On the anode subject...
My boat (2003) is in fresh water and my outdrive looks brand new. No Mercathod system.

One year I discovered a few tiny spots on the outdrive where paint was peeling. The aluminum was corroding at those spots.

I looked around and discovered that the (bare) bonding wire had broken off the drive. The wire was just hanging there and the allen head screw was still in the drive.

I went unscrew it and it broke off...of course! I drilled and tapped a new hole, got an exact size and length stainless allen head screw at Ace Hardware.

Point is...if not properly maintained, your drive can corrode even in fresh water. Something as minuscule as a bonding wire can ruin your day if you're not paying attention.
 

Rostov

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Happy Harbor guy?

Keep my first boat (I/O) on the trailer at Breezy Point Marina. Weekends in a slip....weekdays on the trailer.

Loved the boat......who didn't love their first boat, but far too much work keeping up with motor and drive issues. Keep it for two seasons then sold it for an outboard.
Shipwright harbor
 
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